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Old 11-16-2011, 11:01 AM   #526
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my 2011 was fine though, and im using the same 1deg hubs in the rear.
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:18 AM   #527
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
i think you will find it is the ball joints on the camber links that are binding up. Although it could also be your driveshafts binding against the cups. THe easiest way to find out is to take the driveshafts out and see if it still does the same.
It's my inner ball cup that's not letting it go all the way up, when I removed the inner ball cup it goes up as far as my 417.
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:38 AM   #528
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Originally Posted by photopro View Post
Your issue is expected. The arm will never travel that far when you drive because the shock cannot compress that much. If you have the recommended 1.5mm aluminum spacer between the aluminum bulkhead and the rear hinge pin mount, you should be fine. As long as you have toe in from the rear tires. Without the toe, you need the 50mm axles, otherwise you don't.


BTW, ran the 2012 last night. Im so impressed. I have spent months tuning my other touring cars and this baby was so balanced and locked in that I don't think Im changing the set-up. UNREAL
I know what you mean. Because this is my first Xray I don't know what to expect. Yes for the rear I have only 1.5 shim
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:50 AM   #529
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Originally Posted by R3VoLuTiOn View Post
now that you mention it, my right was 3.5 and left at 4 degrees lol.

i should look into that...
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Originally Posted by Con View Post
Yep me too. I put a 1.10 shim in the left side intsead of the 1.50 shim to compensate.
Seems to have been a problem since the T3 '10.
if u guys put less shim or more shim into it to make it balance left & right the total toe will be equal but take a look again to the car after adding the shim or not the arm will push more towards nor backwards if u look from above the kit .... still thinking a way to make it equal
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Old 11-16-2011, 11:57 AM   #530
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Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx View Post
I will be running a LRP SXX Stock spec with a X12 17.5 what's a good starting point? If anyone can help thanks.
I run 29/84 on a small and tight track with Boost 2 and RPM 3 on a Nosram Pure Spec 2. Temperature over 15 minutes below 60C.

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just wondering if u guys have the same problem as mine ... the problems is that the rear toe is not the same left & right, the right i got 3 deg. toe in and left i got 3.5 deg. toe in, is anyone have the same problem as i in the t3'12 ??
I read about this in the Xray forum and therefore check during build. Mine has 3 on both sides. Good for me ;-)
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:05 PM   #531
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Originally Posted by entitymugenmtx View Post
It's my inner ball cup that's not letting it go all the way up, when I removed the inner ball cup it goes up as far as my 417.
Too much camber with the manual setup. See page 17 in your manual. With 1.5 camber it should not bend.
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Old 11-17-2011, 12:06 AM   #532
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I've got a T3'11 with all the latest goodies that I'm planning to upgrade to a '12. I know I need chassis/topdeck/shock towers, and maybe the harder knuckles. I'm not quite sure, though, what's changed with the steering. Any guidance on what parts I need to grab to make the '11's steering work on the '12?
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Old 11-17-2011, 12:21 AM   #533
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
I've got a T3'11 with all the latest goodies that I'm planning to upgrade to a '12. I know I need chassis/topdeck/shock towers, and maybe the harder knuckles. I'm not quite sure, though, what's changed with the steering. Any guidance on what parts I need to grab to make the '11's steering work on the '12?
2 x Xray 302526

or

Take what you already have, drill a hole in the right servo saver arm and shave off some of the left one.
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Old 11-17-2011, 01:10 AM   #534
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2 x Xray 302526

or

Take what you already have, drill a hole in the right servo saver arm and shave off some of the left one.
Thanks! So if you've already got the updates to the '11, this is what you need to make a '12?

301132 T3'12 chassis
303087 T3'12 shock tower rear
302086 T3'12 shock tower front
301193 T3'12 upper deck
302526 Composite dual servo saver arm (x2)
372503 Composite servo saver X-stiff
302253 Composite steering block hard (x2)
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Old 11-17-2011, 02:52 AM   #535
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Thanks! So if you've already got the updates to the '11, this is what you need to make a '12?

301132 T3'12 chassis
303087 T3'12 shock tower rear
302086 T3'12 shock tower front
301193 T3'12 upper deck
302526 Composite dual servo saver arm (x2)
372503 Composite servo saver X-stiff
302253 Composite steering block hard (x2)
i wouldnt worry about the shock towers and servo savers. How many times have you had problems with yours in the past?
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Old 11-17-2011, 03:12 AM   #536
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Originally Posted by Mb3195 View Post
i wouldnt worry about the shock towers and servo savers. How many times have you had problems with yours in the past?
No problems with this car ever. I thought the shock positions on the new towers were optimized?
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Old 11-17-2011, 04:07 AM   #537
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No problems with this car ever. I thought the shock positions on the new towers were optimized?
yeah, they have one hole lower than you currently can go and they dont have the holes for the old quick camber link adjusters.

If you've never needed to run your shocks lower than the bottom hole, do you really need to get them?
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Old 11-17-2011, 05:50 AM   #538
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I noticed last night that the steering arms are a different thickness and height than the old one as well. So you wont be able to just buy the right side when you do the conversion. Buy both left and right steering links to keep them the same height/size.

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Old 11-17-2011, 06:15 AM   #539
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports View Post
I noticed last night that the steering arms are a different thickness and height than the old one as well. So you wont be able to just buy the right side when you do the conversion. Buy both left and right steering links to keep them the same height/size.

EA
Is it ? wow I use only one for last couple of weeks LOL
Let me Double check it
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Old 11-17-2011, 07:54 AM   #540
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
No problems with this car ever. I thought the shock positions on the new towers were optimized?
Adam yes get the new shock towers and if you don't want to use the new hard servo saver then you can try a servo horn.
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