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Old 11-03-2014, 06:57 AM   #4171
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I got a question on what you guys are seeing when you mate up your pinion to your spur.

For the USGT class I went ahead and used a setup that called for a 96T spur and a 49T pinion. as I was working in general on rebuilding the vehicle I had the top deck off, and I noticed that the spur that was on the vehicle (Robinson Racing) didn't have the holes in it to reach through and reach the motor screw that woudl be closest to the spur gear side.

No sweat, changed over to an xray spur gear but then noticed the hole was not big enough to fit the screw threw?

this made me wonder, if I can't get the screw threw the hole to get to the motor, how are people doing this when they take th emotor completely out the car? Also the angle even with a ball driver was very extreme to reach. I ended up going to a 2.5mm cap screw to get a better angle and better chance of not stripping the screw.

Anyway any tips on this? i didn't notice this last year with the VTA versions, but I was using different spur gear size so maybe that is why.
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:58 AM   #4172
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I got a question on what you guys are seeing when you mate up your pinion to your spur.

For the USGT class I went ahead and used a setup that called for a 96T spur and a 49T pinion. as I was working in general on rebuilding the vehicle I had the top deck off, and I noticed that the spur that was on the vehicle (Robinson Racing) didn't have the holes in it to reach through and reach the motor screw that woudl be closest to the spur gear side.

No sweat, changed over to an xray spur gear but then noticed the hole was not big enough to fit the screw threw?

this made me wonder, if I can't get the screw threw the hole to get to the motor, how are people doing this when they take th emotor completely out the car? Also the angle even with a ball driver was very extreme to reach. I ended up going to a 2.5mm cap screw to get a better angle and better chance of not stripping the screw.

Anyway any tips on this? i didn't notice this last year with the VTA versions, but I was using different spur gear size so maybe that is why.
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Old 11-03-2014, 07:59 AM   #4173
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I've dremelled out a little on my Core-RC spurs to get the access to the screw. It works well enough for now. Some spurs/pinion combos do require me to take the rear wheel off.
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Old 11-03-2014, 08:12 AM   #4174
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thanks for the info. One thing looking at the issue made me wonder if people were only tightening 1 screw, the one they can reach and using the other as more of a "guide" screw.
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Old 11-03-2014, 11:42 AM   #4175
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Hi, this frustrates me too.
I set the gear mesh and tighten the front motor screw. Then lift out the spur from the bulkhead and tighten the rear motor screw.
It's pretty fiddly with belts etc but works ok. It's not a quick change to add a few teeth to the pinion
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Old 11-03-2014, 11:56 AM   #4176
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yeah I can see how calling it "good" and just going with the gearing can come up if you run at a place that doesn't have much time between heats. when looking at the vehicle I was thinking maybe to use less screws that hold on the top deck to make the change faster.
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Old 11-06-2014, 08:16 PM   #4177
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Apart from taking the top deck off & that's only to make things easier, I don't have any problems with spurs (48p) in 21.5. Using 68/36

I do use a body reamer at times on the spur to make putting a screw thru it easier

Find the T3'12 easy to drive & is still competitive against current cars
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Old 11-07-2014, 06:42 AM   #4178
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its definitely still a good car. hopefully will get to really get some time in with it this winter.
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Old 11-14-2014, 08:38 AM   #4179
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Im having Loose corner entry problems with my T3-12, can anyone shed some light? USVTA 5mm front 5.25mm rear, 2mm fr droop 3mm r. 3.0fr spring-400 oil, 2.6 r spring-350 oil. 1000wt gear diff rear, fr one way.
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Old 11-14-2014, 08:43 AM   #4180
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Put the spool back in or a gear diff to see if helps any. Also you can try a shorter link in the rear.
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Old 11-14-2014, 08:44 AM   #4181
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worse with the spool/diff in fr
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Old 11-14-2014, 08:45 AM   #4182
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I have the shortest upper link possible
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:05 AM   #4183
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what are your roll centres + shims, upper link shims, and how long are you saucing?
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:20 AM   #4184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Race19s View Post
I have the shortest upper link possible
How is your weight bias front to rear? Are you on power or off power? Do you notice it getting better on or off throttle?
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Old 11-14-2014, 09:51 AM   #4185
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Put the spool back in the front, reduce rear droop by 0.5mm, and thicken the rear diff up to 2000wt.
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