Xray T3 2012
#3946
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
I ran my T3 for the first time on the weekend and would like some help and advice. I used the stock asphalt setting recommended in the kit, with the following differences -
Alloy shocks, 35W Associated oil all round with 3 hole 1.2 pistons, stock springs
Droop 6 front, 5 rear (on the droop gauge, not the ORH method)
1,000cst diff oil
Ride & Sorex 36 tyres
1 degree negative camber front, 2 degree negative rear
1 degree toe in (front)
Ride height 5mm front, 5.5mm rear
I'm racing at TFTR, current track layout is track 2 reversed http://www.tftr.org.au/index.php?p=1_46 . The track is bumpy in places and the asphalt is also cracking in some areas. I'm running in the 21.5 boosted class.
The car has plenty of on-power steering and rotation, but that doesn't suit my driving style at all. I have a classic "slow in, fast out" style, and I want the front end of the car to do the steering, not the rear. With my current setup, there's plenty of traction and steering if I hit the throttle on or before the apex of the corner, but if I corner using my style of driving, there's no rear end stability or traction. High speed stability and turn in is good.
I did not want to blindly throw setups at the car. It was my first club meeting with the car, and I wanted to get a good feel for the standard setup and what I wanted to change before making changes.
I'm thinking of doing the following - lengthen the rear camber link, increase rear droop (to 6 front, 4 rear) and move the top of the rear shock out one hole on the tower.
And suggestions would be appreciated.
Alloy shocks, 35W Associated oil all round with 3 hole 1.2 pistons, stock springs
Droop 6 front, 5 rear (on the droop gauge, not the ORH method)
1,000cst diff oil
Ride & Sorex 36 tyres
1 degree negative camber front, 2 degree negative rear
1 degree toe in (front)
Ride height 5mm front, 5.5mm rear
I'm racing at TFTR, current track layout is track 2 reversed http://www.tftr.org.au/index.php?p=1_46 . The track is bumpy in places and the asphalt is also cracking in some areas. I'm running in the 21.5 boosted class.
The car has plenty of on-power steering and rotation, but that doesn't suit my driving style at all. I have a classic "slow in, fast out" style, and I want the front end of the car to do the steering, not the rear. With my current setup, there's plenty of traction and steering if I hit the throttle on or before the apex of the corner, but if I corner using my style of driving, there's no rear end stability or traction. High speed stability and turn in is good.
I did not want to blindly throw setups at the car. It was my first club meeting with the car, and I wanted to get a good feel for the standard setup and what I wanted to change before making changes.
I'm thinking of doing the following - lengthen the rear camber link, increase rear droop (to 6 front, 4 rear) and move the top of the rear shock out one hole on the tower.
And suggestions would be appreciated.
#3948
Tech Elite
iTrader: (70)
I'm having an issue with rear toe. Yesterday I was going over my setup and it was 3* and 2*. I took everything apart holding the arms together, double checked everything, and it was all as it should have been. 1.5mm shims on both sides. I figured something may have shifted so rebuilt very carefully. Just checked it again, 3* and 2*. Why are both sides using the same parts giving me different measurements?
#3949
Tech Apprentice
I'm having an issue with rear toe. Yesterday I was going over my setup and it was 3* and 2*. I took everything apart holding the arms together, double checked everything, and it was all as it should have been. 1.5mm shims on both sides. I figured something may have shifted so rebuilt very carefully. Just checked it again, 3* and 2*. Why are both sides using the same parts giving me different measurements?
#3950
I'm having an issue with rear toe. Yesterday I was going over my setup and it was 3* and 2*. I took everything apart holding the arms together, double checked everything, and it was all as it should have been. 1.5mm shims on both sides. I figured something may have shifted so rebuilt very carefully. Just checked it again, 3* and 2*. Why are both sides using the same parts giving me different measurements?
#3951
Tech Elite
iTrader: (70)
Thanks for the input from both of you. I did switch around and some how ended up getting 2.5 per side when I switched so went that since they were the same and tested tonight. Car ran very well that way. Went from 11.16 pb to 11.03. I got a pair of the pivot pins and an arm I was going to switch out but will probably just get 2 new uprights to change next time I go.
#3952
I would love a set of lowered shock towers so I can use the new t4 shocks on my 2012...Anyone have this in the works?
#3955
Tech Elite
iTrader: (93)
Hey guys. I just picked up a T3'12 used and had a quick question. It seems to be missing a part (http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...d-Holder-Black). Are people running without this? It is in the manual. But I was told nothing goes there by the seller. Never seen any touring car without it. I was wanting to run this car this weekend but I'm afraid to run without this piece and end up bending the motor mount.
#3956
motor mount--- missing front
Odin,
apparently there are varying schools thought on this piece.
Some--- very good drivers--- think it may induce tweak into the chassis.
I had 2- 312's and ran one with and one without.
At the end I ran both without as I found no positive to run it.
I may have just been dreaming but it semed to flex more evenly without it.
regards,
Darrald
apparently there are varying schools thought on this piece.
Some--- very good drivers--- think it may induce tweak into the chassis.
I had 2- 312's and ran one with and one without.
At the end I ran both without as I found no positive to run it.
I may have just been dreaming but it semed to flex more evenly without it.
regards,
Darrald
#3957
Tech Elite
iTrader: (93)
Odin,
apparently there are varying schools thought on this piece.
Some--- very good drivers--- think it may induce tweak into the chassis.
I had 2- 312's and ran one with and one without.
At the end I ran both without as I found no positive to run it.
I may have just been dreaming but it semed to flex more evenly without it.
regards,
Darrald
apparently there are varying schools thought on this piece.
Some--- very good drivers--- think it may induce tweak into the chassis.
I had 2- 312's and ran one with and one without.
At the end I ran both without as I found no positive to run it.
I may have just been dreaming but it semed to flex more evenly without it.
regards,
Darrald
I think I will go ahead and run it this weekend then without it and get it ordered and try it the following weekend with it in place and see if I notice a difference.
Thanks for the response. It's much appreciated.
#3958
I ran my T3'12 in VTA and knocked my best lap time down by 0.9sec ( run a T3'07 usually in VTA ). Large track, med/high bite, this worked for me;
2.8/2.6 springs
35w oil all 4
1.5*f / 2*r camber
#2 link hole front w/4mm shim out and 1mm in
#2 link hole rear w/1mm shim out and 1mm in
0* front toe
2* rear toe
50mm ECS shafts front
52mm rears
top shock hole #3 f&r
5mm ride height f&r
6mm front droop
5mm rear droop
medium flex settings top and bottom
f&r diffs up position
Setup worked for me with my driving style
2.8/2.6 springs
35w oil all 4
1.5*f / 2*r camber
#2 link hole front w/4mm shim out and 1mm in
#2 link hole rear w/1mm shim out and 1mm in
0* front toe
2* rear toe
50mm ECS shafts front
52mm rears
top shock hole #3 f&r
5mm ride height f&r
6mm front droop
5mm rear droop
medium flex settings top and bottom
f&r diffs up position
Setup worked for me with my driving style
I just purchased the 50mm to tune w/
also thinking of putting 50 in the rear.
#3959
Tech Addict
iTrader: (19)
I race at Thunder R/C, home of the Southern USVTA Nationals. Its a large flowing track with med/high bite on 1st run and gets better with every run after. I run 52mm's on my VTA car normally. The ECS 50mm's made it seem to me to get thru the switchbacks more smoothly, but comparing a T2'07 and a T3'12, they are 2 totally different feeling cars. The'12 seemed to enter the corners more agressivly, but much smoother than the '07 ever had with 52mm's.
As I said, I only ran my '12 in VTA once, just to see how much difference it was between the two. It prompted me to pull some strings and I get to order a T4'13 tomorrow evening.
As I said, I only ran my '12 in VTA once, just to see how much difference it was between the two. It prompted me to pull some strings and I get to order a T4'13 tomorrow evening.
#3960
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
Hey Guys
I know I'm late to the party here... but I have a 1st-gen T3 that is giving me full satisfaction and that can still hang with the faster chassis out there, or almost can. The car I don't think is the main issue, driver skills are Anyways, I'm thinking about going more modern, or at least partially. Are there any aftermarket companies that make a conversion for the T3 (2010!) that allow it to run a "full" (but thin) chassis? I'm not necessarily chasing an option that uses dual bellcranks, but why not...
I tried exotek but their optional chassis only are compatible for T3'11 and beyond...
thanks for any info.
cheers
Paul
I know I'm late to the party here... but I have a 1st-gen T3 that is giving me full satisfaction and that can still hang with the faster chassis out there, or almost can. The car I don't think is the main issue, driver skills are Anyways, I'm thinking about going more modern, or at least partially. Are there any aftermarket companies that make a conversion for the T3 (2010!) that allow it to run a "full" (but thin) chassis? I'm not necessarily chasing an option that uses dual bellcranks, but why not...
I tried exotek but their optional chassis only are compatible for T3'11 and beyond...
thanks for any info.
cheers
Paul