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Old 06-29-2012, 09:21 PM   #3001
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here is a pic of the above mentioned blocks.
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Xray T3 2012-cso-xt-8035.jpg  
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Old 06-30-2012, 02:04 AM   #3002
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Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
Looking if anyone has had this problem as I'm just trying to find the source....

I keep striping spur gears and tossing set screws for the pinion. The gear mesh is set correctly (I have had a number of Xray people look at the gear mesh and all agree it is correct.) it does not seem to matter what motor (4 different ones) or what pinion (5 different ones).

Any ideas to why this is occurring?

Oh, All I run is blinky 17.5.
Check if the aluminium layshaft has alot of wear (Part number 305521) or even maybe the bearings are worn out.
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Old 06-30-2012, 02:46 AM   #3003
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Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
Looking if anyone has had this problem as I'm just trying to find the source....

I keep striping spur gears and tossing set screws for the pinion. The gear mesh is set correctly (I have had a number of Xray people look at the gear mesh and all agree it is correct.) it does not seem to matter what motor (4 different ones) or what pinion (5 different ones).

Any ideas to why this is occurring?

Oh, All I run is blinky 17.5.
Does the motor mount have any indentions where the motor screws go? Sometimes if you crank down too hard on a previously installation / mesh the screws will wanna work their way back to those indentions and change your mesh after you set it, while your running.
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Old 06-30-2012, 03:18 AM   #3004
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Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
Looking if anyone has had this problem as I'm just trying to find the source....

I keep striping spur gears and tossing set screws for the pinion. The gear mesh is set correctly (I have had a number of Xray people look at the gear mesh and all agree it is correct.) it does not seem to matter what motor (4 different ones) or what pinion (5 different ones).

Any ideas to why this is occurring?

Oh, All I run is blinky 17.5.
Check that the motor mount brace is not loose or screw missing,this can cause gears to strip very quick
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Old 06-30-2012, 04:53 AM   #3005
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Originally Posted by mcb-jet View Post
Check that the motor mount brace is not loose or screw missing,this can cause gears to strip very quick
I lost mine for a while,in 17.5t bossted haven't stripped a spur in the proccess of running without the brace.
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Old 06-30-2012, 05:24 AM   #3006
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Originally Posted by rdlkgliders View Post
here is a pic of the above mentioned blocks.
I would'nt hold much hope, CSO aftermarket parts and hopups are generally of poor quality.
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Old 06-30-2012, 05:40 AM   #3007
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Originally Posted by steveonamission View Post
I would'nt hold much hope, CSO aftermarket parts and hopups are generally of poor quality.
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Old 06-30-2012, 06:02 AM   #3008
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I would'nt hold much hope, CSO aftermarket parts and hopups are generally of poor quality.
I actually got bang on 2.5deg. toe in both sides with the blocks, just that the pins and bushings were very dodgy, I swapped them out with yokomo ones. The front blocks are too narrow, I think they made the width so that it will be like the standard xray ones with no shims in between the pin holder and suspension bracket.

On another note, have been trying the new smokem chassis, it gives more turn in and more grip than the 2.5mm one. The counter sunk holes are all made very nicely and let the screws sit into the chassis more than the standard ones so that the screws don't wear out over time.
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:07 AM   #3009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
Looking if anyone has had this problem as I'm just trying to find the source....

I keep striping spur gears and tossing set screws for the pinion. The gear mesh is set correctly (I have had a number of Xray people look at the gear mesh and all agree it is correct.) it does not seem to matter what motor (4 different ones) or what pinion (5 different ones).

Any ideas to why this is occurring?

Oh, All I run is blinky 17.5.
Dumb question but I omitted it in my car in an attempt to add a little more flex in the area--did you install the brace on the side of the motor mount that attaches to the chassis as well?



I guess I should read the next page first huh....
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Old 06-30-2012, 07:32 AM   #3010
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Originally Posted by steveonamission View Post
I would'nt hold much hope, CSO aftermarket parts and hopups are generally of poor quality.
Thx,
I was suspicious of that. I wanted to swap to the more conventional tamiya and serpent style lower brackets without having to run an aftermarket chassis like the Exotek.
looks like Exotek it is.
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:01 AM   #3011
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Originally Posted by NolanP View Post
Dumb question but I omitted it in my car in an attempt to add a little more flex in the area--did you install the brace on the side of the motor mount that attaches to the chassis as well?



I guess I should read the next page first huh....
Excellent point... But yes. One time the screw was loose on the mount side, so I just assumed that was the reason that time, but that was 3 weeks ago.
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:19 AM   #3012
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Originally Posted by Mr. MR4 View Post
Check if the aluminium layshaft has alot of wear (Part number 305521) or even maybe the bearings are worn out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
Does the motor mount have any indentions where the motor screws go? Sometimes if you crank down too hard on a previously installation / mesh the screws will wanna work their way back to those indentions and change your mesh after you set it, while your running.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcb-jet View Post
Check that the motor mount brace is not loose or screw missing,this can cause gears to strip very quick
Quote:
Originally Posted by defcone View Post
I lost mine for a while,in 17.5t bossted haven't stripped a spur in the proccess of running without the brace.
Thanks I will look at these items. I had not though of the spur shaft... I do have a second car that I have not finished putting together so I think I will take the motor mount and spur shaft from them (new bearings) and see if this is an issue, I will also try washers on the mount screws and see what tomorrow brings... I know that both the front end and rear end (with the belt attached) is very free.... I just think something did not get MFG correctly (a bad part if you will) it can happen... and I'm the lucking one... It is not big deal if I just find the source...
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Old 06-30-2012, 08:40 AM   #3013
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Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
Thanks I will look at these items. I had not though of the spur shaft... I do have a second car that I have not finished putting together so I think I will take the motor mount and spur shaft from them (new bearings) and see if this is an issue, I will also try washers on the mount screws and see what tomorrow brings... I know that both the front end and rear end (with the belt attached) is very free.... I just think something did not get MFG correctly (a bad part if you will) it can happen... and I'm the lucking one... It is not big deal if I just find the source...
Yeah find out who packaged that part....After all it did have their name on it.
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Old 06-30-2012, 01:32 PM   #3014
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....The servo saver steering rack arms are plastic, which really surprised me to be honest. I figured they did this for a couple of reasons, with one being that they would not have as much play as it's aluminum friends. However this is not the case after a few runs it has just as much play as the aluminum server saver arms used on other cars. The other reason is so they could charge $38.99 to make them an option part.
The only play I found was in the vertical axis where a tiny shim could do with being fitted. As you've mnetioned, other than that they do the same job and unlike alloy won't bend. I have yet to meet anyone who has broken any, ergo, alloy versions aren't needed.

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Bumper brace is plastic and to replace it with a stiffer CF piece will cost you $20.99. Some people may not think this is needed, but is commonly included in other kits and can help support the bumper systems in the front end. This one is knit pick, but is included in many other kits.
It is not needed, the plastic item that comes with the kit is far better at absorbing impacts than any amount or design of CF. If you want I can get a friend to concur as his Tamiya 417X required a new chassis after a couple of front impacts to his car.

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Packs of shims to replace all of the plastic shims is about $25.50
Possible the only bit I agree with having replaced the shims to orange alloy versions myself. But you can kit yourself out with Orange items by Take Off for around $10

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The plastic spool does not really have a reasonable aluminum counter part, but to get a higher quality solution people are upgrading to Side Piece Racing out drives or they are using the Xray steel and aluminum versions. I personally like the composite out drives, but wish the spool itself was aluminum with composite out drives. Bottom line is that I see this as another skimp item. Tamiya, HB, Serpent, TOP, 3Racing are all using higher quality materials to build this part.
The only problem with the original parts here is that the composite outdrives could perhaps so with an alu sleeve to help strengthen them and the Xray alu versions could do with being wider, so they use more surface area of the blades. THere is nothing wrong with the spool pulley at all. And the current solution is a lot lighter than any alu version which loweres rotating weight.

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Turnbuckles for the kit can be hit or miss based on the manufacturer, but at a minimum the steering links need to be upgraded on the xray. Titanium or spring steel turnbuckles are included in quite a few kits at no extra up-charge.
The older Xray kits used steel, the newer kits use alu to save weight. I snapped one in 3 years, no others bent etc.

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Base kit T3'12 $529.00
Aluminum Shocks: $93.98 possible option
Steering Rack: $38.99 totally uneccessary
Bumper Brace: $20.99 Waste of time
Shims: $25.50 Bit steep but cheaper are available
Spool upgrades: $30.00, uneccessary
Ti Steering Turnbuckles: $15.00 totally uneccessary
There you go, I've just saved you $130 or so, no need to thank me

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So to get the car from stock up to the same fit and finish as other competition you would have to spend $753.46. Most people won't do this, but if you did, that is what you might have to spend to get the same level of finish that comes stock with the Tamiya 417X, Serpent S411TE, TOP Photon EX, AE TC6.1, Yokomo BD5, 3Racing Sakura XI-DH, and others. I know that some of these cars do not have the same quality of parts as the Xray, but you also don't have to add much out of the box to the other kits at a much lower street cost price.
No shit!

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Like I said, I like Xray, but in the same breath I think people have just come to accept the level of finish they get from the car. I just don't think it is that complicated. Xray Designs the next car, builds a costs to manufacture, and then trims the parts that push the car past their price point and adds profit. Everything else that does not fit in the bucket becomes an option. Pretty typical business model, but the other companies have figured out a way to include it in the base kit. Some companies have to sacrifice quality in some areas, but not all...
Part of the problem when comparing your 'business model' is that you haven't taken into account the fact that Xray only make racing kits, most of the others (not sure about a couple of them) also make RTR's and other crap that is mass produced and not half as good as any of their racing cars.

If Xray made such an expensive kit, they may find that people who are considering different models will actually go elsewhere due to the price.

I like the Tamiya's, but could you honestly advise someone who is getting their first 'high end' TC to get one, certainly not unless they have good spares backup and like replaceing broken parts regularly.

Xray have become a very popular RC company with well respected product lines because they are reliable and far more durable than anything else.

If they have to charge a bit extra for the additional bling that is honestly of no use then so be it.

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Old 06-30-2012, 05:22 PM   #3015
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Couldnt agree more with skiddins!
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