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Old 06-28-2012, 06:38 PM   #2971
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Originally Posted by b.wihardja View Post
I feel a vibration when the car is held by hand and given more than half throttle.
What should i check?
Nothing... It's normal, a bit of chatter isn't always a bad thing...
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:52 PM   #2972
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Originally Posted by b.wihardja View Post
I feel a vibration when the car is held by hand and given more than half throttle.
What should i check?
Are you balancing the tires? That is huge for vibrations. Try something simple...it sounds like the problem to me.
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Old 06-28-2012, 06:53 PM   #2973
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Originally Posted by b.wihardja View Post
I feel a vibration when the car is held by hand and given more than half throttle.
What should i check?
Are your wheels Balanced? Vibration is greatly reduced if they are. It should be minimal otherwise.
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:10 PM   #2974
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There is a reason X-Ray has the plastic shocks. I've never had to "chase " my set-up at all. I've been running X-ray cars both nitro and electric with nothing but plastic ones. the up side is also if you so desire you can buy new shock bodies for less an $10.00
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Old 06-28-2012, 07:25 PM   #2975
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Originally Posted by casino57 View Post
There is a reason X-Ray has the plastic shocks. I've never had to "chase " my set-up at all. I've been running X-ray cars both nitro and electric with nothing but plastic ones. the up side is also if you so desire you can buy new shock bodies for less an $10.00
Thank you Mr.Garcia...you just answered a question I had with my t1fk05 i thought maybe aluminum shock bodies were an upgrade...will keep the stock bodies.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:02 PM   #2976
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As long as your not jumping your car plastic shouldn't have that much if any effect on your car vs aluminum. I understand my eyes scream aluminum but my hands say my car works pretty well.
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:15 PM   #2977
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As long as your not jumping your car plastic shouldn't have that much if any effect on your car vs aluminum. I understand my eyes scream aluminum but my hands say my car works pretty well.
I have a few years on you. every so often those red and white things on the track become jumps....lol
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Old 06-28-2012, 08:20 PM   #2978
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Well ok the shims I can understand I did upgrade to some new shims to have full adjustment of toes and width. I personally havent had steering issues. What bent for you?
The steering rack arms bend when you remove the ball cups on the steering rack studs. Presumably they bounce back into place but I would rather they be aluminum. Thinking about ordering the CSO ones since they are quite a bit cheaper.

I do wonder if the none aluminum steering rack arms are good for people who don't run a servo saver? They might give a little to help save your servo gears.
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Old 06-29-2012, 01:40 AM   #2979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
The steering rack arms bend when you remove the ball cups on the steering rack studs. Presumably they bounce back into place but I would rather they be aluminum. Thinking about ordering the CSO ones since they are quite a bit cheaper.

I do wonder if the none aluminum steering rack arms are good for people who don't run a servo saver? They might give a little to help save your servo gears.
I have converted my trackrods to ballends all round M3*8 or 10, so if I want to change bump steer etc I never have to pop a ball joint off, just unscrew and add the shims.

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Old 06-29-2012, 09:19 AM   #2980
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Any feedback of Smokem T3MX?
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Old 06-29-2012, 10:13 AM   #2981
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Originally Posted by casino57 View Post
Are you balancing the tires? That is huge for vibrations. Try something simple...it sounds like the problem to me.
I just tried it without the tires, and the results are greatly reduced vibration.
and I also saw that the front belt oscillating at high speeds. I thightned it and the results were slightly reduced vibration
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:37 AM   #2982
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Can you please explain what you think the problems are with the parts you mention as I don't see any problems compared with anyone elses (apart from the shocks, I think we might have had your opinion on those already )

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I used the word skimp on purpose...it is not that the parts on the car don't function I was more referring to the quality of the parts used in place of higher quality more durable materials that we should all except to see on the car. If the car came with aluminum shocks, everyone would be raving about them and would not be hoping that Xray would release plastic replacements. Maybe I am wrong, but I don't think so...

To add aluminum shocks to the car costs most drivers around $93.98.

The servo saver steering rack arms are plastic, which really surprised me to be honest. I figured they did this for a couple of reasons, with one being that they would not have as much play as it's aluminum friends. However this is not the case after a few runs it has just as much play as the aluminum server saver arms used on other cars. The other reason is so they could charge $38.99 to make them an option part.

Bumper brace is plastic and to replace it with a stiffer CF piece will cost you $20.99. Some people may not think this is needed, but is commonly included in other kits and can help support the bumper systems in the front end. This one is knit pick, but is included in many other kits.

Packs of shims to replace all of the plastic shims is about $25.50

The plastic spool does not really have a reasonable aluminum counter part, but to get a higher quality solution people are upgrading to Side Piece Racing out drives or they are using the Xray steel and aluminum versions. I personally like the composite out drives, but wish the spool itself was aluminum with composite out drives. Bottom line is that I see this as another skimp item. Tamiya, HB, Serpent, TOP, 3Racing are all using higher quality materials to build this part.

Turnbuckles for the kit can be hit or miss based on the manufacturer, but at a minimum the steering links need to be upgraded on the xray. Titanium or spring steel turnbuckles are included in quite a few kits at no extra up-charge.

The stuff I see above should not be option parts, they should be included in the base kit.

Notice I am not talking about parts that I see as reasonable upgrade parts...like aluminum spring cup retainers, ECSs, 50mm CVA shafts for the rear, carbon or Xtra-Hard Arms, split front blocks, and other things that are considered frivolous.

Base kit T3'12 $529.00
Aluminum Shocks: $93.98
Steering Rack: $38.99
Bumper Brace: $20.99
Shims: $25.50
Spool upgrades: $30.00
Ti Steering Turnbuckles: $15.00

So to get the car from stock up to the same fit and finish as other competition you would have to spend $753.46. Most people won't do this, but if you did, that is what you might have to spend to get the same level of finish that comes stock with the Tamiya 417X, Serpent S411TE, TOP Photon EX, AE TC6.1, Yokomo BD5, 3Racing Sakura XI-DH, and others. I know that some of these cars do not have the same quality of parts as the Xray, but you also don't have to add much out of the box to the other kits at a much lower street cost price.

Like I said, I like Xray, but in the same breath I think people have just come to accept the level of finish they get from the car. I just don't think it is that complicated. Xray Designs the next car, builds a costs to manufacture, and then trims the parts that push the car past their price point and adds profit. Everything else that does not fit in the bucket becomes an option. Pretty typical business model, but the other companies have figured out a way to include it in the base kit. Some companies have to sacrifice quality in some areas, but not all...

Sorry I was so long winded, but wanted to make sure I explained myself the best I could.
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Last edited by artwork; 06-29-2012 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 06-29-2012, 11:51 AM   #2983
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I'd have to say this is really knit picking, especially on things like the spool and turnbuckles. The spool is awesome, yes I use SPR outdrives, but that combo is zero f'n maintenance, I didn't even carry a spare spool for a year because I never thought to buy one, it doesn't get play, I cannot say the same for any other car I have had. The alum black turnbuckles are the strongest alum ones I have used, my tamiya, now THAT car needs new turnbuckles right off the bat, they bend if you are over tighten a ballcup! (/sarcasm)

I'll give you plastic shims and maybe alum arms on the steering rack, I haven't weighed the 2 versions, but I'm guessing that the xray engineers often make choices based on weight, even if it is only a few grams, I mean they tell you to fill up a gear diff on a scale. I would argue in general that I would prefer to see the price of "non required" upgrades to be cheaper if they weren't including them, ie, $100 a set for vertical ball stud clamps for an '11 car, when 5 other companies can sell them for half that and make a profit, we're aware that we pay "luxury tax" lol.

Overall though the added durability in the chubs, arms, etc over some other cars is what I feel people are willing to pay the premium for. I had not run xray since the t2' 007 days because on foam the losi was much cheaper to run, but going back now to the xray I am very happy with the progress that was made since that car.
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Old 06-29-2012, 12:33 PM   #2984
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Tamiya uses aluminum turnbuckles that have to be replaced for durability if I remember correctly. and $25 for shims is too much, you don't have to buy the xray aluminum shims.
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Old 06-29-2012, 12:53 PM   #2985
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Keep your spool upgrade, ti turnbuckles, aluminum shocks, and bumper brace. shims fully agree id like a set of aluminium ones for adjustments.......but they were 10 bucks for a full set for each car at my hobby shop. My upgrades were chassis, servo holder, bearings, top plate, and shims. A few of those items are for pure looks. I wouldnt mind the shocks for the internals not the externals.
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