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Old 06-23-2012, 07:09 AM   #2881
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Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
Why not just use a narrower hex? Would it not be the same net result?
A lot is different when you narrow the block when compared to a narrower hex, even if not by much(dependant on how much you grind off).
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:31 AM   #2882
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Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
Why not just use a narrower hex? Would it not be the same net result?
Not quite, when you remove material from the blocks you are changing the suspension geometry as well as the width.

The wishbone position, upper link length & roll centre etc will all change.

Changing the hexes only changes the roll centre.
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:20 AM   #2883
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Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
Why not just use a narrower hex? Would it not be the same net result?
Not exactly, when the upper camber link is run in position 1 (outters most, closest to wheel) , as most of Hagbergs setups indicate, it will make the upper link abit shorter, which then makes camber rise abit quicker... It's a geometry change not so much a track width adjustment... Hope it helps...
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:57 AM   #2884
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won't running the camber link in it's outermost position (closest to wheel) make it longer ?
Do you mean after the mod it will become shorter than before the mod creating the quick camber gain.
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Old 06-23-2012, 09:14 AM   #2885
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Originally Posted by rdlkgliders View Post
won't running the camber link in it's outermost position (closest to wheel) make it longer ?
Do you mean after the mod it will become shorter than before the mod creating the quick camber gain.
Apologies for the confusion... I was meaning the inner mounting on the bulkhead closest to the wheel, should be position 1? (Not in front of a setup sheet, LOL) ,... You'd maintain the inner mounting on the hub as well... Making the link as short as possible
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:59 AM   #2886
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How wide or narrow are you running your front end?
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Old 06-24-2012, 06:22 PM   #2887
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May have been brought up already but, are there any advantages to running 50mm driveshafts in the rear?
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Old 06-24-2012, 07:57 PM   #2888
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Originally Posted by elee32 View Post
May have been brought up already but, are there any advantages to running 50mm driveshafts in the rear?
Yes you can narrow the rear end which will help the car come around the corner. It will make it less stable though.
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Old 06-25-2012, 12:30 AM   #2889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvalis View Post
This mod makes the rear of the car quite a lot narrower which results in more turn-in and mid corner rotation. The car will be more aggressive and difficult to drive but faster for some conditions.

http://hagberg.blogs.se/2012/01/18/r...tion-12479898/
Rather than hacking up your susp blocks, you can use these holders
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....ducts_id=13037
That way you can use low, mid or high susp blocks without hacking them up.
I tested these today and they work a treat, it is only a .5mm thinner though, but the benefit is it is reversible side to side, so you can run in the -0.5 configuration (1mm total trackwidth reduction) or in the normal configuration.
The other benefit is you can use the separate rear-front suspention holders that you remove from the rear, in the front-rear position instead of the one peice holder, and increase steering at the same time and make front belt changes much easier

Last edited by kinga; 06-25-2012 at 05:44 AM.
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:45 AM   #2890
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I'd sure like to see an option like that from XRay. It gets us that much closer to toe blocks though, I guess.
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Old 06-25-2012, 07:50 AM   #2891
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Syndr0me, if those adjustments float your boat then the Exotek chassis conversion set allows you to use different toe blocks so that you can alter the track width.

There is another thread on here specifically for it where the widths of blocks etc are listed.
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Old 06-25-2012, 08:11 AM   #2892
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
I'd sure like to see an option like that from XRay. It gets us that much closer to toe blocks though, I guess.
If they could make those out of the same molded plastic, it would be a lot cheaper than stocking a bunch of different toe block widths like I had to when I ran Tamiya.
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:37 AM   #2893
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what is the preferred low traction asphalt chassis combo? I have been running on low traction tight tracks with the VBC flex and it did not take the basic asphalt setup with positive results. I have it pretty dialed now. what is preferred the 2.0 xray, the exotek, vbc or other
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:21 AM   #2894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kinga View Post
Rather than hacking up your susp blocks, you can use these holder
That way you can use low, mid or high susp blocks without hacking them up.
I tested these today and they work a treat, it is only a .5mm thinner though, but the benefit is it is reversible side to side, so you can run in the -0.5 configuration (1mm total trackwidth reduction) or in the normal configuration.
The other benefit is you can use the separate rear-front suspention holders that you remove from the rear, in the front-rear position instead of the one peice holder, and increase steering at the same time and make front belt changes much easier
If you put the seperate suspension holders in in the front -rear position you better order some replacement chassis....
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Old 06-25-2012, 04:53 PM   #2895
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I personally would rather just mill them down myself and know they are correct and be able to run any of the adjustable blocks vs just the one set.
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