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Old 06-13-2012, 10:39 AM   #2821
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Cool, thanks for the replies !
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:40 AM   #2822
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I should have clarified, I'm using the exotek conversion ....

So Defcone , you are implying you notice a difference of added rear traction without the screw or were you just making a general statement ?
Just a general statement, do you find the car tends to be too "stuck" in the rear end with the exotek conversion? It seems that there are only cutouts in the rear, I myself like the car with kit chassis, cso-made tamiya style blocks in the rear and a mixture of tamiya split block and serpent block up front. Seems to give the best balance of steering and grip.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:16 AM   #2823
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Just a general statement, do you find the car tends to be too "stuck" in the rear end with the exotek conversion? It seems that there are only cutouts in the rear, I myself like the car with kit chassis, cso-made tamiya style blocks in the rear and a mixture of tamiya split block and serpent block up front. Seems to give the best balance of steering and grip.
Honestly, the question about that motor mount screw has been lingering in my " noggin" for as long as X-ray had that "option". I've owned just about every T3 but tried something else for a bit and just got the '12. I always left that screw out but mostly ran stock classes. When I ran mod my cars tended to be noisy, so I always wondered about the gear mesh and that mount but never tested it back to back. The T3'12 with that screw the mesh is perfect and sounds great...

I only used the stock 2.5mm chassis for one day, then threw the Exotek on it for the Reedy in 17.5 with spec tires , then came home and ran mod with it twice on Sorex, so I'm just getting up to speed with an Xray again and working on a setup but far too many variables to make conclusions. So, in an attempt to answer your question , generally, I'd say my car pushes initially, but is loose middle of the corner on power, and lacks steering on high speed sweepers. So yes, I probably have too much rear grip as you suggest. It could be simply droop and weight bias needs to move forward that will dramatically change the car.... so Basically, I don't have enough time into it to make any assertions as to exotek vs 2.0, vs 2.5mm chassis but generally I'd agree with what you suggest about having more than enough rear grip.

I actually have the CSO blocks already, just hadn't tried them since I went the Exotek route but I may try the stock chassis again with the CSO blocks. If you could pm me more details about your use of serpent blocks.. etc, I'd appreciate it.

Cheers,

Jake D.
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Old 06-13-2012, 11:27 AM   #2824
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The removal of top deck screws in the rear is an interesting change in the feel of the car. Although, I think it does tend to allow the car to twist and roll more in the rear I also found that it makes the car a little bit more inconsistent. I think the car is more predictable with the screws in and making other changes in the car to help the car generate from rear grip if needed. A more consistent car tends to help me be more consistent lap after lap and that is what I am trying to achieve in setup. Winning the fast lap game usually ends in tears.
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Old 06-14-2012, 10:48 AM   #2825
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so what is the hot setup for the shocks? Are most running the older bladders and the vented top still?
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Old 06-14-2012, 11:01 AM   #2826
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so what is the hot setup for the shocks? Are most running the older bladders and the vented top still?
I prefer the RSD bladders, no foam, and the vented caps. The std low bladders work just as well, but I found them to tear more easily.
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Old 06-14-2012, 11:36 AM   #2827
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so what is the hot setup for the shocks? Are most running the older bladders and the vented top still?
Personally I'm running the 2012 shocks with the fixed 3 hole pistons or the fixed 4 hole pistons. I am not having any issues so far.
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Old 06-14-2012, 12:24 PM   #2828
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Originally Posted by Dusttt View Post
so what is the hot setup for the shocks? Are most running the older bladders and the vented top still?
I love the shocks with the adjustable pistons, and the stock low bladder with no foam and a vent hole in the cap.
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Old 06-14-2012, 02:52 PM   #2829
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I prefer the RSD bladders, no foam, and the vented caps. The std low bladders work just as well, but I found them to tear more easily.
RSD Bladders?

And Thanks guys
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Old 06-14-2012, 04:29 PM   #2830
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Tried an XR3'12 at our test facility (street), seemed sharper than T3'12 with similar set up,

will give it a go at the track tonight
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Old 06-14-2012, 05:02 PM   #2831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusttt View Post
RSD Bladders?

And Thanks guys
RSD bladders are made by reflex suspension dynamics. They work on the x ray shocks and are a bit more durable and a lot cheaper than the x ray ones
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Old 06-15-2012, 04:57 AM   #2832
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RSD012 is this the part # for the bladders you guys are using?
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Old 06-15-2012, 06:47 AM   #2833
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Has anyone tried the Cso blocks and how do they perform over the standard X-ray mounts? Would there be better steering, rotation etc,etc?
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Old 06-15-2012, 08:13 AM   #2834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elee32 View Post
RSD bladders are made by reflex suspension dynamics. They work on the x ray shocks and are a bit more durable and a lot cheaper than the x ray ones
Thanks!

So anyone that is running the exotek conversion. Are you running shims under the rear blocks?
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Old 06-15-2012, 02:35 PM   #2835
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Does the front Yokomo belt fit our car?
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