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Old 06-04-2012, 02:07 PM   #2746
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The kit manual says 90* to the chassis, which is what I am running, but I had to use a LOT of subtrim to get my servo saver vertical, and my EPA's left and right are about 20% different.
When I attached all my servo hardware, I disconnected the rod from the servo saver ball joint. I set the the radio steering trim to center.

I then removed the saver horn and tried to find a spline that lined up as straight as possible. If the nearest one is out of alignment, then try taking the central adapter that allows different servo's to be used and rotate that, then try fitting the saver horn back on.

I managed to find one that was almost vertical.
You then want to straighten up the steering arms, this is where you might need to shorten the link between the servo hown and the steering arms.
Then check the length of the steering links to the knuckles, once everything is even, you should find that the difference in end points from left to right is no longer great.

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Old 06-04-2012, 02:27 PM   #2747
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Anything less is simply uncivilized.
Something more is just brutalized
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:29 PM   #2748
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Yeah my EPA setting from left to right is way out as well, not sure what to do to sort it
Just follow the method I listed and you will be happy.
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:32 PM   #2749
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here u go
Like mentioned, take a thin dremel cutoff wheel ans cut a slot in the top for a flat screwdriver. I have done this to many of my cheap screws that come in some kits with no problems. Just be careful you don't cut too deep and ruin the diff housing.
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Old 06-04-2012, 08:54 PM   #2750
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Thanks for all the responses guys ...this thread rocks....but i used slo E4 method of turning the screw into a flathead with a dremel and it worked perfectly ......next time i will use a smaller grinding disk it did touch the housing a bit but big deal it still holds the fluid and the screw is out.
He has posted it worked... Glad it worked for you. I told you to wear it down some...Next time do that first. 9 times out of 10 you will get it with that method.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:13 AM   #2751
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
When I attached all my servo hardware, I disconnected the rod from the servo saver ball joint. I set the the radio steering trim to center.

I then removed the saver horn and tried to find a spline that lined up as straight as possible. If the nearest one is out of alignment, then try taking the central adapter that allows different servo's to be used and rotate that, then try fitting the saver horn back on.

I managed to find one that was almost vertical.
You then want to straighten up the steering arms, this is where you might need to shorten the link between the servo hown and the steering arms.
Then check the length of the steering links to the knuckles, once everything is even, you should find that the difference in end points from left to right is no longer great.

Skiddins
Thanks Skiddins, that is exactly what I did. However, with my Savox servo, it seems that no matter what combination I tried with the splines ended up with an offset servo saver.
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Old 06-05-2012, 10:36 AM   #2752
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Thanks Skiddins, that is exactly what I did. However, with my Savox servo, it seems that no matter what combination I tried with the splines ended up with an offset servo saver.
Offset by how much?

By rotating the spline adaper and trying again (a few times) I reached a point where it was almost dead vertical.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:40 AM   #2753
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Offset by how much?

By rotating the spline adaper and trying again (a few times) I reached a point where it was almost dead vertical.
Closest to vertical I managed still required around 60 points of sub trim to make perfectly vertical. Savox servos, just like M-Technic.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:56 AM   #2754
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It you don't get it out drill the head off take the rest of the screws out of the diff and take the diff apart. Then use pliers to unscrew the rest of the screw. Just use a drill pit the size of the head.
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Old 06-05-2012, 03:16 PM   #2755
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Closest to vertical I managed still required around 60 points of sub trim to make perfectly vertical. Savox servos, just like M-Technic.
Yep, I think I am running around 50 clicks of subtrim on mine.
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Old 06-05-2012, 05:54 PM   #2756
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What is the best set up sheet to use for asphalt with a 225 back straight temps about 80 -90 deg. Any tips..... Thanks new to onroad love it.

Running a Revtech 17.5 with orion vortex r10 2-3. Gearing 47 and 100. Final drive 4.04. Should I go up with my final drive. I see people running up to 6.0 or 7.0 FDR.
With that RevTech motor at Leisure Hours.....you need to gear lower. Lower final drive. 3.50 is a good place to start. You may also want to turn up the heat. Be careful tho.....you need to check the temp. Run about 2 minutes and see where you are at. I like to keep mine between 160-175. No more. Good luck racing.
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:17 PM   #2757
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can we use low mounting lower arm adapter (lower roll center)? the standard is the middle mounting im thinking to change with low mounting adapter because of block upper chamber link is limit im using standard L block. is it o.k for low grip track ?
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:29 PM   #2758
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can we use low mounting lower arm adapter (lower roll center)? the standard is the middle mounting im thinking to change with low mounting adapter because of block upper chamber link is limit im using standard L block. is it o.k for low grip track ?
I've used low roll (-.75) blocks when I need more grip. The car can feel a little lazy but you can get a lot more grip for sure.
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:26 PM   #2759
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I've used low roll (-.75) blocks when I need more grip. The car can feel a little lazy but you can get a lot more grip for sure.
thanks pcar951 ...
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Old 06-06-2012, 01:09 AM   #2760
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had my first big race with the 12 over the weekend (i previously owned an 09) and all i could is the car is sweet, strong and super smooth!
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