R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-04-2012, 10:37 AM   #2731
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,660
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
First race day with the car. Had 8 straight DNFs with my TC6 before today. Finished all races in the top 3 today. Handled great all day.
So I take it the T3 has moved to the front of the line? Told you so!!!
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 7 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 12:17 PM   #2732
Tech Master
 
Meradin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,298
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
The kit manual says 90* to the chassis, which is what I am running, but I had to use a LOT of subtrim to get my servo saver vertical, and my EPA's left and right are about 20% different.
Yeah, I had mine set up that way to begin with and then had trouble with the steering. I looked at the end points and they were way off from each other to get max mechanical endpoints on the car. I used the method I mentioned to even out my steering endpoints and my car drives so much better than it did before.

I used this on all my cars and it helped a ton!
__________________
Better than Randy, Adam said so!

Second thought...I don't trust Adams, they make up everything!

"Leave it to Steever", custom paint masks, decals, and paint.
Meradin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 12:23 PM   #2733
Tech Master
 
theatriks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,619
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kuruption View Post
You need a screw remover... you can get them at Sears, Home Depot, etc. etc...

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search=sc...e=CAT_REC_PRED
OK those bolt extractors do not work it basically cost me 30 bucks for nothing and i followed the instructions to a T......does any one else no of something that might work to get a stripped screw outta my diff housing
theatriks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 12:28 PM   #2734
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 5,360
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonJoe View Post
So I take it the T3 has moved to the front of the line? Told you so!!!
Yes sir! Love it. Kinda knew in my heart all along that would be the case.
or8ital is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 12:31 PM   #2735
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 282
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mera'din View Post
Yeah, I had mine set up that way to begin with and then had trouble with the steering. I looked at the end points and they were way off from each other to get max mechanical endpoints on the car. I used the method I mentioned to even out my steering endpoints and my car drives so much better than it did before.

I used this on all my cars and it helped a ton!
Yeah my EPA setting from left to right is way out as well, not sure what to do to sort it
__________________
XRAY T4 Hobbywing V3 Sanwa
FLAT OUT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 12:33 PM   #2736
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 5,360
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by theatriks View Post
OK those bolt extractors do not work it basically cost me 30 bucks for nothing and i followed the instructions to a T......does any one else no of something that might work to get a stripped screw outta my diff housing
They do work but that screw might be too small. This might not be the case with this screw but for me the screw extractor work it two ways. It either bit enough that it would back the screw out of it would take enough of the screw head off that it would break off and then I could take apart the adjoining pieces. From there use pliers to get the rest of the screw out.

Got a picture of the damage as it stands now? It might helps in coming up with solutions.
or8ital is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 12:41 PM   #2737
Super Moderator
 
Slo_E4's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: FL
Posts: 1,123
Trader Rating: 58 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by theatriks View Post
OK those bolt extractors do not work it basically cost me 30 bucks for nothing and i followed the instructions to a T......does any one else no of something that might work to get a stripped screw outta my diff housing
You need a dremmel. With a normal cutting wheel that comes with almost all dremmels. I would say wear the wheel down a little bit so it gets smaller. Becareful they snap very easily. Once it's small enough to your liking, make a notch in the hex head, and use a small flat head to turn her out. Hope this will help.
__________________
.
Slo_E4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 12:44 PM   #2738
Tech Elite
 
Dusttt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Lake Forest
Posts: 2,285
Trader Rating: 121 (100%+)
Default

Im gonna run my car this weekend and I have a new fantom ION3 17.5 and a New Sonic 17.5 which motor does everyone like better in blinky mode for this car.
__________________
"Whiskey Tango Foxtrot"
Dusttt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 12:51 PM   #2739
Tech Master
 
theatriks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,619
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
They do work but that screw might be too small. This might not be the case with this screw but for me the screw extractor work it two ways. It either bit enough that it would back the screw out of it would take enough of the screw head off that it would break off and then I could take apart the adjoining pieces. From there use pliers to get the rest of the screw out.

Got a picture of the damage as it stands now? It might helps in coming up with solutions.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

here u go
theatriks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 12:52 PM   #2740
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 5,360
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slo_E4 View Post
You need a dremmel. With a normal cutting wheel that comes with almost all dremmels. I would say wear the wheel down a little bit so it gets smaller. Becareful they snap very easily. Once it's small enough to your liking, make a notch in the hex head, and use a small flat head to turn her out. Hope this will help.
I'm guessing if he used an extractor on it then this is no longer an option. How much does the diff housing cost? Can you just cut it off and try to preserve the rest of the diff?
or8ital is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 12:59 PM   #2741
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 5,360
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by theatriks View Post


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

here u go
You are pretty close to the point that the top part of the screw will probably break off from the threads. If that does happen hopefully you are left with enough of the threads to grab with pliers. You could just run the first step of the extraction process to remove more material but you then do risk being left with the the threaded part of the screw not being able to be removed. I also don't remember if the diff housing on that side was a straight pass through or if the screw self threaded into it.

Did the extractor kit come with two different sizes? If so did you try the bigger size to see if it helps?

I know you followed directions but just to confirm you did turn the extractor counter clockwise? (I've done it the wrong way before)
or8ital is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 01:01 PM   #2742
Tech Elite
 
Dusttt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Lake Forest
Posts: 2,285
Trader Rating: 121 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
They do work but that screw might be too small. This might not be the case with this screw but for me the screw extractor work it two ways. It either bit enough that it would back the screw out of it would take enough of the screw head off that it would break off and then I could take apart the adjoining pieces. From there use pliers to get the rest of the screw out.

Got a picture of the damage as it stands now? It might helps in coming up with solutions.
Just asking.... so the extracter was being used with drill in reverse right?
I usually get a torx head bit that is slightly larger and pound it in the stripped hex and just back it out.
__________________
"Whiskey Tango Foxtrot"
Dusttt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 01:51 PM   #2743
Tech Elite
 
NolanP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Westmont
Posts: 2,425
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusttt View Post
I usually get a torx head bit that is slightly larger and pound it in the stripped hex and just back it out.
Anything less is simply uncivilized.
Something more is just brutalized
__________________
Mod Touring Car
Mod 12th
Nitro TC
Nitro GT
Wheeler and Mod Buggy
NolanP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 02:03 PM   #2744
Tech Master
 
theatriks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,619
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for all the responses guys ...this thread rocks....but i used slo E4 method of turning the screw into a flathead with a dremel and it worked perfectly ......next time i will use a smaller grinding disk it did touch the housing a bit but big deal it still holds the fluid and the screw is out.
theatriks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2012, 02:06 PM   #2745
Tech Elite
 
artwork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Thornton, CO
Posts: 3,086
Trader Rating: 59 (100%+)
Default

I think your best bet is to cut a slot in the top with a dremel and back it out with a flat head screw driver. Just use a small cut off wheel and it should be fine. Those screws are really soft and may not respond well to a back out bit.

You might nick the surface of the gear diff, but as long as you do not go too deep it should be fine.
__________________
Sanwa | R1 Wurks | Avid | 2mm Designs
artwork is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Xray T3 2011 entitymugenmtx Electric On-Road 4150 05-19-2014 12:53 PM
Xray T3 2011 New in Box olhipster1 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 19 08-04-2011 05:27 AM
XRAY T3 2012 bila nk keluar? bravolous Malaysian R/C Racers 8 06-16-2011 11:58 PM
Xray T3 nitro rat Australia For Sale/Trade 22 09-19-2010 03:11 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:36 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net