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Old 06-02-2012, 10:00 AM   #2686
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Originally Posted by defcone View Post
If there's 0, it means you put all the shims at the back like you said.
True, but I keep seeing the '0' ticked, and the 2mm!
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:02 AM   #2687
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I'm having trouble getting my servo saver to 90 degrees. The link is bottomed out. This is with a bls551. Is this a common problem? I suppose I could just get a shorter turnbuckle.

Took the car out for the first time today. Heaven.
When I converted mine to the '12 spec, I used a steering turnbuckle, but I cut a couple of mm off each end.
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:15 AM   #2688
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Originally Posted by bosfan View Post
Anyone having problems breaking rear belts running mod
I have broke 2 within the last month is this normal
I was having the same problems ...one snapped belt and 2 where the teeth grinded rite off ....keep it loose...but i found when you put the diff in the lower position and even on the loosest setting its still very tight soo im running it in the upper position on the loosest setting .
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:25 AM   #2689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
I'm having trouble getting my servo saver to 90 degrees. The link is bottomed out. This is with a bls551. Is this a common problem? I suppose I could just get a shorter turnbuckle.

Took the car out for the first time today. Heaven.
You just need to get max steering both directions (lockout) and then adjust endpoints so you are not putting torque against the servo by trying to turn to far, this is not good for your steering components, servo or chassis.
A lot of people even reduce there steering so that it does not go all the way to max lockout. Between adjusting steering linkage length, servo saver linkage position and proper shimming between the saver and arm you should be able to find a fluid and efficient steering setup. Don't be afraid to trim excess plastic from the servo saver if it is in the way.
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Old 06-02-2012, 10:34 AM   #2690
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
If you look closely the arrows from those check boxes point to the spacers in front of the wishbones at the front and the back of the car.

I don't understand why it has a '0' box at all, but if the 2mm is ticked, then a 2mm spacer is in front of the rear wishbones, if the 1mm box is ticked then a 1mm spacer is in front of the wishbone.
You then put put whatever spacers were'nt used at the back of the wishbone.

The rear uses a total of 3mm of spacers, the front 1mm.
So if 2mm is indicated on the rear wishbones, a 1mm spacer is fitted at the back of the wishbone.
ok so in his setup sheet he has a 1mm checked off for the front, so this would mean that a 1mm go infront of the front wishbone and nothing in the rear, and in the rear he has the 2mm and the 0 checked off, this would mean he puts a 2mm in the front rear wishbone and the remaining 1mm in the rear?, thanks for your help guys
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:36 AM   #2691
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Do you guys do this with 2mm chassis?

Important note:

When changing the chassis, the roll centers will be 0.5mm lower compared to the standard chassis. Therefore, to keep the same roll center height you need to use 0.5mm shims under all lower suspension blocks.
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Old 06-02-2012, 12:01 PM   #2692
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Originally Posted by bozzplayer View Post
ok so in his setup sheet he has a 1mm checked off for the front, so this would mean that a 1mm go infront of the front wishbone and nothing in the rear, and in the rear he has the 2mm and the 0 checked off, this would mean he puts a 2mm in the front rear wishbone and the remaining 1mm in the rear?, thanks for your help guys
Front needs 2mm total, most setup sheets you find they have 1/1, the rear uses 3mm total, most common is 2/1 but some run 3/0.
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Old 06-02-2012, 12:54 PM   #2693
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I often adjust rear arm spacing, I do not change the front as often . The more spacers you have in front of the rear wishbone the more weight transfer to the rear creating more rear traction. I use this as an adjustment to change the balance of my car.
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:28 PM   #2694
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Originally Posted by rdlkgliders View Post
You just need to get max steering both directions (lockout) and then adjust endpoints so you are not putting torque against the servo by trying to turn to far, this is not good for your steering components, servo or chassis.
A lot of people even reduce there steering so that it does not go all the way to max lockout. Between adjusting steering linkage length, servo saver linkage position and proper shimming between the saver and arm you should be able to find a fluid and efficient steering setup. Don't be afraid to trim excess plastic from the servo saver if it is in the way.
No issue with saver. Just the linkage can't be short enough to get the servo saver perpendicular to the chassis (90 degrees) when in neutral. It'd about 80-85 degrees. It seemed to work fine and I can get full throw in both directions. Just my OCD.

First race day with the car. Had 8 straight DNFs with my TC6 before today. Finished all races in the top 3 today. Handled great all day.
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:32 PM   #2695
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Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
No issue with saver. Just the linkage can't be short enough to get the servo saver perpendicular to the chassis (90 degrees) when in neutral. It'd about 80-85 degrees. It seemed to work fine and I can get full throw in both directions. Just my OCD.

First race day with the car. Had 8 straight DNFs with my TC6 before today. Finished all races in the top 3 today. Handled great all day.
Well duh! Congrates dude for coming over. This car as you will see is the cats meow! You'll be finishing 95% of your races now. This car is fast and is quality.You'll never look back.
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Old 06-02-2012, 06:07 PM   #2696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
No issue with saver. Just the linkage can't be short enough to get the servo saver perpendicular to the chassis (90 degrees) when in neutral. It'd about 80-85 degrees. It seemed to work fine and I can get full throw in both directions. Just my OCD.

First race day with the car. Had 8 straight DNFs with my TC6 before today. Finished all races in the top 3 today. Handled great all day.
Glad to hear you are enjoying the car and finishing well. Most kits will tell you to align the servo horn slightly to one side.
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Old 06-02-2012, 08:55 PM   #2697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
No issue with saver. Just the linkage can't be short enough to get the servo saver perpendicular to the chassis (90 degrees) when in neutral. It'd about 80-85 degrees. It seemed to work fine and I can get full throw in both directions. Just my OCD.

First race day with the car. Had 8 straight DNFs with my TC6 before today. Finished all races in the top 3 today. Handled great all day.
Just buy some spare out drives front the composite are fairly brittle if you touch the boards. Otherwise the car has been great.
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Old 06-03-2012, 02:42 AM   #2698
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just fitted XRay 306220 T3 Centre Servo Mount Set to my 2012 found steering changed on set up guages had to reajust radio to centralise is this normal ?
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:00 AM   #2699
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Originally Posted by moggy12 View Post
just fitted XRay 306220 T3 Centre Servo Mount Set to my 2012 found steering changed on set up guages had to reajust radio to centralise is this normal ?
Yep normal cos new servo mount pushes servo tiny a bit more close to centre of the chasis you need to adjust the link on setup station
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Old 06-03-2012, 05:38 AM   #2700
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need help

My car have top steer .. when on throttle .. my car will go to left .. on natural throttle car starihgt.

what should im looking
is it shock ?
or toe ?
or tire ?
balance right & left or other else should im looking ?

thank for help
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