R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-04-2012, 02:23 PM   #2071
Tech Elite
 
Fred Hubbard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Inglewood, CA
Posts: 2,711
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

^^^^What Mike said!!!
__________________
Goodwine Racing - RC America - XRAY - HUDY - Sanwa - Motiv - GravityRC - BN Racing
Fred Hubbard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2012, 05:09 AM   #2072
Tech Master
 
Pablo Diablo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 1,003
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to Pablo Diablo
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR View Post
Hi! The included blocks give you 3 degree rear toe (w/ 0deg hubs) and .5deg front arm sweep. Front and back width is about 170mm measured from hex end to hex end when using 5mm hex hubs.
That conversion is truly impressive. You are dead right about the binding between the arms and pins on power and braking with the standard Xray setup. I've always been very surprised Xray couldn't work that out themselves.

Why not split blocks for the FR?
__________________
Paul H

Losi Type R | Xray T3 | CRC Gen XL | CRC Gen X 10 ME(Messiah Edition) | Black Diamond

www.FlyingFoxRC.com | Advanced Electronics | Team CRC | Factory Messiah
Pablo Diablo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2012, 06:41 AM   #2073
Tech Regular
 
Chrissy C's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: U.k (Essex)
Posts: 299
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I think i'm right is saying that the chassis is drilled to accept a split FR blocks, but the Exotek kit reflects the block set up that the X-Ray kit comes with.

You can buy a second set of split blocks seperately, plus an A block, an E block and the spacers - good price too!
Chrissy C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2012, 06:42 AM   #2074
Tech Elite
 
Fred Hubbard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Inglewood, CA
Posts: 2,711
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pablo Diablo View Post
That conversion is truly impressive. You are dead right about the binding between the arms and pins on power and braking with the standard Xray setup. I've always been very surprised Xray couldn't work that out themselves.

Why not split blocks for the FR?
The chassis will allow you to run splits in the FR too.
__________________
Goodwine Racing - RC America - XRAY - HUDY - Sanwa - Motiv - GravityRC - BN Racing
Fred Hubbard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2012, 06:43 AM   #2075
Tech Elite
 
Fred Hubbard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Inglewood, CA
Posts: 2,711
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrissy C View Post
I think i'm right is saying that the chassis is drilled to accept a split FR blocks, but the Exotek kit reflects the block set up that the X-Ray kit comes with.

You can buy a second set of split blocks seperately, plus an A block, an E block and the spacers - good price too!
You are correct.
__________________
Goodwine Racing - RC America - XRAY - HUDY - Sanwa - Motiv - GravityRC - BN Racing
Fred Hubbard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2012, 08:18 AM   #2076
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 2,514
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Mike/Fred - question about the roll center of the suspension mounts. Without any spacers under the blocks, how does the hingepin height compare to the Xray kit suspension mounts with the dot in the center? Do you have to add the 1mil spacers to have the same roll center?
DOTMAN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2012, 08:35 AM   #2077
Tech Elite
 
Fred Hubbard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Inglewood, CA
Posts: 2,711
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DOTMAN View Post
Mike/Fred - question about the roll center of the suspension mounts. Without any spacers under the blocks, how does the hingepin height compare to the Xray kit suspension mounts with the dot in the center? Do you have to add the 1mil spacers to have the same roll center?
Without any spacers the blocks are the same height as the middle roll center blocks.
__________________
Goodwine Racing - RC America - XRAY - HUDY - Sanwa - Motiv - GravityRC - BN Racing
Fred Hubbard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2012, 08:41 AM   #2078
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 611
Trader Rating: 20 (95%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
Without any spacers the blocks are the same height as the middle roll center blocks.
I'm not familiar with these style block since I've only ever run an xray, so my question is, how would you go about lowering the blocks if needed? Are there different height blocks?
Stlfc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2012, 08:46 AM   #2079
Tech Lord
 
syndr0me's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: 5280 Raceway
Posts: 13,094
Trader Rating: 32 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stlfc View Post
I'm not familiar with these style block since I've only ever run an xray, so my question is, how would you go about lowering the blocks if needed? Are there different height blocks?
They make 1pc shims that go under the blocks to raise them up.

On the Tamiya blocks, you can flip them over (like the F/R) and 3mm of shims would make them the same as flat when they're flipped the other way. Less than 3mm and you're going lower than flat. Not sure if Exotek works the same.
syndr0me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2012, 09:06 AM   #2080
Tech Master
 
jag88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,075
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I'd like to pull the trigger on this but I can't see the benifits of the the blocks. I think I have more ajustability just by shimming the kit blocks as necessary. As far as the hinge pin friction, imo if you shim the pins properly that doesn't mean a thing.
However I think the chassis looks good.

I'd like to see Exotek come up with their version of the cantilevered servo mount.
jag88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-2012, 09:13 AM   #2081
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 2,514
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
Without any spacers the blocks are the same height as the middle roll center blocks.
Thanks for the info Fred.

Cam Sunday?
DOTMAN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2012, 08:13 AM   #2082
Tech Adept
 
Ariel Reds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Hiliran, Kuala terengganu
Posts: 145
Default

hey there, i have some problem here, before this, my gear-diff runs smoothly, and no leaking case, but somehow after changing the oil, the oil leak out, i try change with new o-ring but the case still happen, any solution? do i need new gasket?
__________________
Team Max EP Terengganu.
Kuala Terengganu Radio Control Club.
Joy and Passion, its all about.
Ariel Reds is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2012, 10:43 AM   #2083
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,654
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ariel Reds View Post
hey there, i have some problem here, before this, my gear-diff runs smoothly, and no leaking case, but somehow after changing the oil, the oil leak out, i try change with new o-ring but the case still happen, any solution? do i need new gasket?
Most likely you have pinched the o-ring during the rebuild.
I don't replace the gaskets, just the o-ring.

Some have suggested that using a 2nd gasket and no ring or even one gasket without the o-ring might work.
__________________
Xray T4'17, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2017
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RCDisco.co.uk
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2012, 10:50 AM   #2084
Tech Elite
 
Fred Hubbard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Inglewood, CA
Posts: 2,711
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ariel Reds View Post
hey there, i have some problem here, before this, my gear-diff runs smoothly, and no leaking case, but somehow after changing the oil, the oil leak out, i try change with new o-ring but the case still happen, any solution? do i need new gasket?
You don't need to use the oring. I've run as light as 500cSt and didn't have any issues with leaks. The trick is being sure to not fill it any higher than the cross pin.
__________________
Goodwine Racing - RC America - XRAY - HUDY - Sanwa - Motiv - GravityRC - BN Racing
Fred Hubbard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2012, 02:35 PM   #2085
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: UK
Posts: 64
Default Xray gear diff

I agree that the O-ring is not needed.
What you should do is coat the mating faces of the diff cases with a thin smear of thick grease, add the gasket and screw up as normal.
I've built three this way with 700 cst oil, never a leak.
Also be sure not to over tighten the screws.
regards
Don
donwhit is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Xray T3 2011 entitymugenmtx Electric On-Road 4150 05-19-2014 12:53 PM
Xray T3 2011 New in Box olhipster1 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 19 08-04-2011 05:27 AM
XRAY T3 2012 bila nk keluar? bravolous Malaysian R/C Racers 8 06-16-2011 11:58 PM
Xray T3 nitro rat Australia For Sale/Trade 22 09-19-2010 03:11 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:59 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net