R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-23-2012, 01:59 PM   #1921
Tech Regular
 
4skinz80's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 371
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by locked View Post
I have my mod car (4.5T) geared at around 8.0 FDR

I'd guess you would want to be somewhere around 8.5 FDR for a 3.5T
thanx broseph
__________________
Losi 22 & B44.2
Banning hours raceway
I want to be fast... My car just won't do what my mind tells it too;)
If you Aint First Your Last!!!
4skinz80 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2012, 02:12 PM   #1922
Tech Master
 
theatriks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,619
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

My personal preference is:

64 pitch-carpet
48 pitch-outdoors(the tiny rocks dont get caught in your gears as easily)
theatriks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2012, 02:13 PM   #1923
Tech Master
 
locked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Toronto
Posts: 1,758
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

According to some of those gearchart sites, they say you should be closer to 10.5 FDR for a 3.5 and for a 4.5 like mine they say 9.5 FDR, but my ReVtech 4.5 doesn't get even close to hot geared at 8.0, but has plenty of rip and top end.

So start up around 8.5 - 9, but check temps VERY frequently just in case.
__________________
Dave Locke
Team PerformanceHobbies.ca | ORCA RC | Bodies by Brandon | Team Meeting
XRAY T4'15 x2 | XRAY XB4 | XRAY XB8E | XRAY XB8
locked is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2012, 02:17 PM   #1924
Tech Master
 
theatriks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,619
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4skinz80 View Post
thanx broseph
I ran my reedy 3.5 turn today probably for a good 10 minutes straight no boost no timing ....my fdr was 11.0 and the temp on her was 115F....so im guessing 8.5 9.0 is no problem but if your gonna run boost i think u might want to try her out at 9- 9.5 first check the temps then go from there.
theatriks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2012, 05:49 PM   #1925
Tech Elite
 
Johnny Wishbone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,311
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Got this from Paul Lemiux a while back.

"This is a rule of thumb for non timing speedos and any motor manufacture. depending on the track size and motor it could be a tooth or two on the pinion different. for timing speedos it depends completely on the speedo setting and their is many different gearing options based upon the timing settings on the speedo.
Everyone needs to take notice of motor temp at 3min when trying a new set up to ensure not to blow a motor. any manufactures motor will taper off in on track performance around 190deg (magnet gets weak) and most manufactures will not blow up untill 210-230 deg or more. if at 3 min your motor exceeds 170deg you are most likely too aggressive on gear or timing for a 6 min run.

Again this is for non timing speedos and just a good rule of thumb for a starting point.
21.5 turn, 3.6 overall
17.5 turn, 4.2 overall
13.5 turn, 5.1 overall
10.5 turn, 5.7 overall
5 turn, 8.1 overall
4.5 turn, 8.4 overall
4 turn, 8.9 overall

hope this helps a little. Thanks "
__________________
Gary Lanzer
Team VBC HK
Team R1WURKS
Johnny Wishbone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 08:51 AM   #1926
Tech Elite
 
defcone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 2,336
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Is there anything that can be done for the front rim hitting the arms at full lock?
defcone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 03:59 PM   #1927
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,543
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by defcone View Post
Is there anything that can be done for the front rim hitting the arms at full lock?
Not really apart from don't use full lock.

Try to gain steering another way so you don't have to use full lock or scrub speed with alot of ackerman
__________________
Xray T4'16, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2016
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RCDisco.co.uk
Skiddins is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 04:42 PM   #1928
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Hagerstown, MD
Posts: 1,699
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Not really apart from don't use full lock.

Try to gain steering another way so you don't have to use full lock or scrub speed with alot of ackerman
+1

using full lock steering results in lower corner speed which in turn means slower lap times, if you are using full lock, i would suggest making an adjustment to get more steering/ front grip out of the car. or less rear grip.
__________________
★Randy Banks★
COLD AS ICE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 05:21 PM   #1929
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,117
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by defcone View Post
Is there anything that can be done for the front rim hitting the arms at full lock?
Adjust your steering end points on your radio so that you do not hit the arms even when using full lock on the wheel....
JamesL_71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 05:24 PM   #1930
Tech Elite
 
defcone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 2,336
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Not really apart from don't use full lock.

Try to gain steering another way so you don't have to use full lock or scrub speed with alot of ackerman
Quote:
Originally Posted by COLD AS ICE View Post
+1

using full lock steering results in lower corner speed which in turn means slower lap times, if you are using full lock, i would suggest making an adjustment to get more steering/ front grip out of the car. or less rear grip.
Cheers guys, thanks for the help.
defcone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 05:34 PM   #1931
Tech Champion
 
MikeXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 5,747
Trader Rating: 72 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by defcone View Post
Is there anything that can be done for the front rim hitting the arms at full lock?
You could add a .75 shim or wider hexes, and remove shims at the arm mount to get the same width, this will affect handling a little, but may give you the clearance you need. If you run on one of those small tracks with a lot of 180's you may need full lock, if not, then I agree that full lock is probably hurting you more than helping.
__________________
Mike L. Awesomatixusa.com | TQWire.com | Islandraceway.com |JacksonRCracing.com | Horsham RC | Sweepracingusa.com
MikeXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 06:15 PM   #1932
Tech Elite
 
defcone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 2,336
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
You could add a .75 shim or wider hexes, and remove shims at the arm mount to get the same width, this will affect handling a little, but may give you the clearance you need. If you run on one of those small tracks with a lot of 180's you may need full lock, if not, then I agree that full lock is probably hurting you more than helping.
That's a very good solution, by different it will only react even quicker due to a shorter camber link if I kept everything the same yeah?
defcone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 07:29 PM   #1933
Tech Champion
 
MikeXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 5,747
Trader Rating: 72 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by defcone View Post
That's a very good solution, by different it will only react even quicker due to a shorter camber link if I kept everything the same yeah?
Yes that is a small change, but I was thinking more about the scrub angle change, again, not huge, but they car may react a little different.
__________________
Mike L. Awesomatixusa.com | TQWire.com | Islandraceway.com |JacksonRCracing.com | Horsham RC | Sweepracingusa.com
MikeXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2012, 08:14 PM   #1934
Tech Elite
 
defcone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Sydney
Posts: 2,336
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
Yes that is a small change, but I was thinking more about the scrub angle change, again, not huge, but they car may react a little different.
and the shock angle will change, steering links will change seems ill just let it scrub haha
defcone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2012, 06:48 AM   #1935
Tech Champion
 
MikeXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 5,747
Trader Rating: 72 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by defcone View Post
and the shock angle will change, steering links will change seems ill just let it scrub haha
It depends on how good the car is now, and how wide you are running it, we have high grip carpet here so I have 2.25mm shims on the front arms, I wouldn't hesitate to take out the .75 if I needed more steering.
__________________
Mike L. Awesomatixusa.com | TQWire.com | Islandraceway.com |JacksonRCracing.com | Horsham RC | Sweepracingusa.com
MikeXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Xray T3 2011 entitymugenmtx Electric On-Road 4150 05-19-2014 01:53 PM
Xray T3 2011 New in Box olhipster1 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 19 08-04-2011 06:27 AM
XRAY T3 2012 bila nk keluar? bravolous Malaysian R/C Racers 8 06-17-2011 12:58 AM
Xray T3 nitro rat Australia For Sale/Trade 22 09-19-2010 04:11 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:13 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0