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Old 03-07-2012, 03:29 AM   #1756
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Originally Posted by pcar951 View Post
Anyone cutting the outer servo mount off the chassis? The "nub" drags on carpet pretty bad for me, may be causing some inconsistent handling??
Yep. Cut it off and shoegoo the servo down.
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:26 AM   #1757
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hi guys, finshed the build in around 4 hours - put in an hour or so at lunch today at work.

i have a couple of questions to get the car up and running for nationals this weekend. (i'll be testing on friday so can use that time to dial the rocketship)
To set the scene:
i run 17.5 boosted at South African Nationals, im going with the box setup on asphalt. its summer here so its hot


Do i run the gear diff in? does it need running in or will it do that on its own? 1000 cst oil in the diff.

given that 17.5 isnt as quick as mod should i heat shrink the drive shaft pins? and or thread lock?

should i use the sway bars? will this make me more consistent if the majority of people dont even know how to set them properly (me included)?

if the car needed more flex (grip) should i remove some screws out of the top deck? inside screws?

anything else you can suggest to make the car consistent? im not interested in pace for now consistency in this class is important.


as a comment: i have prob built around 8 cars so far and none have come together as smoothly as this one. glad i bought it - now to hit the track.
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:38 AM   #1758
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hi guys, finshed the build in around 4 hours - put in an hour or so at lunch today at work.

i have a couple of questions to get the car up and running for nationals this weekend. (i'll be testing on friday so can use that time to dial the rocketship)
To set the scene:
i run 17.5 boosted at South African Nationals, im going with the box setup on asphalt. its summer here so its hot


Do i run the gear diff in? does it need running in or will it do that on its own? 1000 cst oil in the diff.

given that 17.5 isnt as quick as mod should i heat shrink the drive shaft pins? and or thread lock?

should i use the sway bars? will this make me more consistent if the majority of people dont even know how to set them properly (me included)?

if the car needed more flex (grip) should i remove some screws out of the top deck? inside screws?

anything else you can suggest to make the car consistent? im not interested in pace for now consistency in this class is important.


as a comment: i have prob built around 8 cars so far and none have come together as smoothly as this one. glad i bought it - now to hit the track.

Sage,

For the gear diff, you don't need to run it in. Just put it on the track.
Just use thread lock for the axles (blue type). I always use sway bars and the ones that come with kit. You can take the screws out of top deck to make more grip but car might not be as consistent. Try other setup changes depending on what the car is doing. Good luck at Nationals.

Jeff
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:42 AM   #1759
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagejyoung View Post
hi guys, finshed the build in around 4 hours - put in an hour or so at lunch today at work.

i have a couple of questions to get the car up and running for nationals this weekend. (i'll be testing on friday so can use that time to dial the rocketship)
To set the scene:
i run 17.5 boosted at South African Nationals, im going with the box setup on asphalt. its summer here so its hot


Do i run the gear diff in? does it need running in or will it do that on its own? 1000 cst oil in the diff.

given that 17.5 isnt as quick as mod should i heat shrink the drive shaft pins? and or thread lock?

should i use the sway bars? will this make me more consistent if the majority of people dont even know how to set them properly (me included)?

if the car needed more flex (grip) should i remove some screws out of the top deck? inside screws?

anything else you can suggest to make the car consistent? im not interested in pace for now consistency in this class is important.


as a comment: i have prob built around 8 cars so far and none have come together as smoothly as this one. glad i bought it - now to hit the track.
You can run the gear diff, try going down to 700. Use standard asphalt setup, it is pretty close. You can run the standard sway bars. Run 2 screws in the back, keep the front standard. You might go harder on the shock oils. Come to The PMR tent, it is Xray valley, we will help you
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:42 AM   #1760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sagejyoung View Post
hi guys, finshed the build in around 4 hours - put in an hour or so at lunch today at work.

i have a couple of questions to get the car up and running for nationals this weekend. (i'll be testing on friday so can use that time to dial the rocketship)
To set the scene:
i run 17.5 boosted at South African Nationals, im going with the box setup on asphalt. its summer here so its hot


Do i run the gear diff in? does it need running in or will it do that on its own? 1000 cst oil in the diff. I didnt bother running mine in and its still fine, 1000 cst is a good start

given that 17.5 isnt as quick as mod should i heat shrink the drive shaft pins? and or thread lock? I would use the heat shrink

should i use the sway bars? will this make me more consistent if the majority of people dont even know how to set them properly (me included)?use the roll bars, they are very easy to setup and will make the car easier to drive IMO, try 4mm front and 2mm rear bar to start with

if the car needed more flex (grip) should i remove some screws out of the top deck? inside screws? Dont remove the screws the T3 12 doesnt have the multi flex like the older models, try softer springs/shock oils 1st

anything else you can suggest to make the car consistent? im not interested in pace for now consistency in this class is important. just make sure all the cars settings are spot on ie camber/toe/ride height/droop etc are all equal side to side and front to back. Front ecs drive shafts made my car easier to drive


as a comment: i have prob built around 8 cars so far and none have come together as smoothly as this one. glad i bought it - now to hit the track.
.
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:21 AM   #1761
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SA View Post
You can run the gear diff, try going down to 700. Use standard asphalt setup, it is pretty close. You can run the standard sway bars. Run 2 screws in the back, keep the front standard. You might go harder on the shock oils. Come to The PMR tent, it is Xray valley, we will help you
fantastic, will bring the car through to the tent for some covert setting adjustment. thanks.
you okes fro PMR sure do love your xrays. good luck for the nats! see you tomorrow. Mr A is also helping me out with it so i guess im in good hands.

shot
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:28 AM   #1762
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCing15 View Post
hi guys, finshed the build in around 4 hours - put in an hour or so at lunch today at work.

i have a couple of questions to get the car up and running for nationals this weekend. (i'll be testing on friday so can use that time to dial the rocketship)
To set the scene:
i run 17.5 boosted at South African Nationals, im going with the box setup on asphalt. its summer here so its hot


Do i run the gear diff in? does it need running in or will it do that on its own? 1000 cst oil in the diff.

given that 17.5 isnt as quick as mod should i heat shrink the drive shaft pins? and or thread lock?

should i use the sway bars? will this make me more consistent if the majority of people dont even know how to set them properly (me included)?

if the car needed more flex (grip) should i remove some screws out of the top deck? inside screws?

anything else you can suggest to make the car consistent? im not interested in pace for now consistency in this class is important.


as a comment: i have prob built around 8 cars so far and none have come together as smoothly as this one. glad i bought it - now to hit the track.

Sage,

For the gear diff, you don't need to run it in. Just put it on the track.
Just use thread lock for the axles (blue type). I always use sway bars and the ones that come with kit. You can take the screws out of top deck to make more grip but car might not be as consistent. Try other setup changes depending on what the car is doing. Good luck at Nationals.

Jeff
Quote:
Originally Posted by FLAT OUT View Post
.

magnificent - thanks for the reply guys - helpful as always. some guys have today and tomorrow off and are practising from today - they prob need it cause after the xray gets dialled its lethal.... will prob have around 6 hours tomorrow in timed practise to get it sorted. more than enough time to find some consistency.
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:12 AM   #1763
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Questions??

Front gear diff + spring steel outdrives = which CVA length?

a) 50mm
b) 52mm

Thanks!
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:33 AM   #1764
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Default Money well spent???

You guys run this?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Holder-Orange
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:52 PM   #1765
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Quote:
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I use it, seems to keep the rear toe even side-side.
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Old 03-08-2012, 01:19 PM   #1766
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Hi,

How often do you need to re oil your shocks before the rebound starts to alter and the shocks are not at their best?
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Old 03-08-2012, 02:57 PM   #1767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
Front gear diff + spring steel outdrives = which CVA length?

a) 50mm
b) 52mm

ThanCan't ks!
I know this doesn't really help but with the SpecR gear diff we ran 50's.
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Old 03-08-2012, 06:21 PM   #1768
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Run 50s all the time if you can. Makes quicker directions changes for chicanes.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:49 AM   #1769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital View Post
Front gear diff + spring steel outdrives = which CVA length?

a) 50mm
b) 52mm

Thanks!
You can use either. I run the same combo (with the steel outdrives) and I have stuck with the kit 52mm driveshafts.
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Old 03-09-2012, 10:23 AM   #1770
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What body is everyone using that works well for the T3 2012?
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