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Old 03-05-2012, 02:24 AM   #1711
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Originally Posted by narcotiks View Post
How do I get more steering out of the car?

And I had the car on the safety part of the track, walked up to drivers stand and hit the throttle to drive into starting position, and my car span out ?? What do I change to fix this? Bare mind that this was a practice day and it was fine, but if I'm spinning out from standstill on a race day, I could cause damage to mine and other cars if someone hits me from behind going full throttle.
(it never span out while on throttle and racing , just from a standstill posiition )
You sure there is no binding? perhaps look at your cvd pins they normally cause an issue with binding when they work thier way out. to stop this get some heat shrink around them (thin type) or get the ones with the flat spot on them so the grub screw sits tight in there..
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:42 AM   #1712
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Originally Posted by Ariel Reds View Post
My T3 '12 totally perform! I just make adjustment on the front width and the rear shock position, he car totally dialled!

Even i bang the curb (as i one of the noob driver ) the settings of the car wont effect after all. It worth every penny of your money
awesome
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:34 AM   #1713
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I am about to build a new set of CVD's with the flat spot pins to avoid the pin from getting loose. I am just missing the inner coupling and locally have available the TC6.1 and the TCX ones:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...VD-Rebuild-Kit
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...VA-Rebuild-Kit

Would like to know if these will fit since I am located in the Dominican Republic and it takes a good amount of times to have parts shipped from the USA.

Oscar.
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:27 AM   #1714
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On my T3-12, the battery stops on the inside (the two little nuts) allow for a bit of movement with the batteries I'm using. I am also a bit underweight for the car (need to add about 60g to get to 1380g). I see that XRay has some sort of Lipo kit for one of the older cars that has some weighted inner stops.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...s&pn=XRA309860

Has anyone used this? Or something like it? What are you using for weight? Where are people putting their weight?
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:54 AM   #1715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
On my T3-12, the battery stops on the inside (the two little nuts) allow for a bit of movement with the batteries I'm using. I am also a bit underweight for the car (need to add about 60g to get to 1380g). I see that XRay has some sort of Lipo kit for one of the older cars that has some weighted inner stops.

https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/c...s&pn=XRA309860

Has anyone used this? Or something like it? What are you using for weight? Where are people putting their weight?
The problem with the kit shown is that the centre weights have sections that were designed to stick down into the cell slots on the old Nicad style chassis's
.
I bought Xray's 30g centre weight which screws under the belt;
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...20Center%2030g

This also has the effect of being the centre limiter for the lipo.

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Old 03-05-2012, 06:21 AM   #1716
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
I bought Xray's 30g centre weight which screws under the belt;
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...20Center%2030g

This also has the effect of being the centre limiter for the lipo.

Skiddins
Great, so that weight will replace the nuts that hold the lipo in. That would be much better as I don't like having my nuts resting on the lipo.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:28 AM   #1717
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
Great, so that weight will replace the nuts that hold the lipo in. That would be much better as I don't like having my nuts resting on the lipo.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:01 AM   #1718
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I installed the TOP Racing CVD Pin retainers on my Xray last week. They don't fit as nicely as they do on TOP/Tamiya/Hot Bodies CVDs, but they work well. In the front, the upper camber link screw was slightly rubbing on the retainer, so I had to add another .5mm shim to the outside link, at least with the kit ball ends (I was only running a 1mm shim previously).
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:43 AM   #1719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
Great, so that weight will replace the nuts that hold the lipo in. That would be much better as I don't like having my nuts resting on the lipo.
The weight allows more movement. I use it in conjunction with one plastic nut. A couple of little pieces of fuel tubing on the battery retainers helps keep the battery snug. Orange looks nice.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:15 AM   #1720
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Hi looking for the following parts x ray 302665 x3, 306220, 303134-k, cannot find anyone who has them in stock, any help thanks
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:39 AM   #1721
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Originally Posted by zaraz View Post
Hi looking for the following parts x ray 302665 x3, 306220, 303134-k, cannot find anyone who has them in stock, any help thanks
http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk

It's a UK shop though, doesn't have that servo mount, but I'm not sure if they are shipping yet.

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Old 03-05-2012, 09:07 AM   #1722
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Anyone tried putting shrink tube over the joint to prevent the pin from moving? My pins are now with flat spots but I'd like to be absolutely sure they won't move again
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:31 PM   #1723
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Default Rear toe in problem!!

Hi,

Im having trouble getting even toe in at the rear of the car, ive got 3 degrees one side and 2.5 the other.

I read somewhere that if you use the solid rear suspension holder (302048-O) instead of the two piece it will solve this, is this correct and will i notice any difference in handling?
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:13 PM   #1724
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt W View Post
Hi,

Im having trouble getting even toe in at the rear of the car, ive got 3 degrees one side and 2.5 the other.

I read somewhere that if you use the solid rear suspension holder (302048-O) instead of the two piece it will solve this, is this correct and will i notice any difference in handling?
The solid rear holder may reduce rear flex slightly.

I had the same problem and just used different shims each side until i got the right amount of toe
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:29 PM   #1725
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt W View Post
Hi,

Im having trouble getting even toe in at the rear of the car, ive got 3 degrees one side and 2.5 the other.

I read somewhere that if you use the solid rear suspension holder (302048-O) instead of the two piece it will solve this, is this correct and will i notice any difference in handling?
I have also read on this thread that you can loosen the lower susp holder screws once the car is assembled and re tighten. (302046). This should solve the rear tow issue. I was a .5 degree off too until i tried this, and now they are both equal. Give it a try.
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