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Old 03-04-2012, 08:21 AM   #1696
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Default Trf shock tip

I used the xray top plastic by opening up the hole in the tamiya aluminum collar with my body hole tool. Takes a few minutes but sharp steel makes quick work of soft aluminum.
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:31 AM   #1697
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Default XRay T3'12

Just to be on the safe side:
T3'12
So #302048-O for the rear is not in the kit?
So #302047 for the front IS in the kit?
#305392 Drive shaft pin 2x10 with flat spot is NOT in the kit?

Just want to know for sure, before I start ordering things.
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:18 AM   #1698
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
On the '12, the TRF shocks move around freely and don't bind on the towers. I used the Tamiya cap and hardware on the shock tower, but the springs/retainers/bottoms are XRay. Looks great with the Exotek bits.
Thats what I would guess because on the '12 shock towers Xray moved the holes closer to the bottom edge.
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:55 AM   #1699
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My T3 '12 totally perform! I just make adjustment on the front width and the rear shock position, he car totally dialled!

Even i bang the curb (as i one of the noob driver ) the settings of the car wont effect after all. It worth every penny of your money
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Old 03-04-2012, 12:42 PM   #1700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensei View Post
Just to be on the safe side:
T3'12
So #302048-O for the rear is not in the kit?
So #302047 for the front IS in the kit?
#305392 Drive shaft pin 2x10 with flat spot is NOT in the kit?

Just want to know for sure, before I start ordering things.
Flat driveshafts are not in the kit, I'd make them flat before driving if I were you. It's the only problem I have found to this moment on this otherwise great car
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Old 03-04-2012, 01:03 PM   #1701
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thanks for the link Nerdling
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:26 PM   #1702
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Your welcome
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:49 PM   #1703
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Hello guys, so yesterday and today I took my Xray T3 for the first practice to the track where we all in the class use 8.5t boosted motors, the car was insane no one else could keep up with it, Only problem I am having is that the front spool seems to be way to harsh on the CVD's and yesterday I bent 2 drive shafts (Non Spring Steel), Today I installed a set of hudy spring steel shafts and all went well, no bent shafts so far except for the pins that got loose which is a typical problem which I will be replacing them with the ones with the groove.

The car has a rear ball diff and a front spool, I was wondering if getting gear diff for the back and using the ball diff in the front will be beneficial? more adjustable and the stress on the front CVD's will be reduced drastically if recommended what oil weight will be a good starting point. Track is an asphalt high traction track.

Oscar.
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Old 03-04-2012, 06:58 PM   #1704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ariel Reds View Post
My T3 '12 totally perform! I just make adjustment on the front width and the rear shock position, he car totally dialled!

Even i bang the curb (as i one of the noob driver ) the settings of the car wont effect after all. It worth every penny of your money
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:26 PM   #1705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arix View Post
Hello guys, so yesterday and today I took my Xray T3 for the first practice to the track where we all in the class use 8.5t boosted motors, the car was insane no one else could keep up with it, Only problem I am having is that the front spool seems to be way to harsh on the CVD's and yesterday I bent 2 drive shafts (Non Spring Steel), Today I installed a set of hudy spring steel shafts and all went well, no bent shafts so far except for the pins that got loose which is a typical problem which I will be replacing them with the ones with the groove.

The car has a rear ball diff and a front spool, I was wondering if getting gear diff for the back and using the ball diff in the front will be beneficial? more adjustable and the stress on the front CVD's will be reduced drastically if recommended what oil weight will be a good starting point. Track is an asphalt high traction track.

Oscar.
I have discovered even hudy spring steel cvds can get bent. It just takes a bit more force.

Front spool, rear gear diff with 500 to 3000 cst oil depending on conditions(1000cst most common). It's generally considered the quickest combination in the vast majority of situations.

T.O.P. and 3racing make axle pin retaining collars that work great if you are having a problem with the set screws backing out. I had an axle setscrew back out a couple of times on my first car. Haven't had any issues since. I just made sure to keep them very tight. Just to be sure I won't have any issues in the future, I recently put these on both of my cars. http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=5507 . They had both T.O.P. and 3racing retainers at my local track, but the Sakura ones were a third of the price. You slide them over the axel before putting the axel into the knuckle/hub. They work great, but the anodizing gets stripped off pretty easily from a bit of track debris getting into the gap between the collar and the knuckle. So far mine are still all pink in the back, but the front ones are totally silver.
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:04 PM   #1706
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I think the putty front gear diff is the way to go and much easier on drivetrain.
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:06 AM   #1707
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How do I get more steering out of the car?

And I had the car on the safety part of the track, walked up to drivers stand and hit the throttle to drive into starting position, and my car span out ?? What do I change to fix this? Bare mind that this was a practice day and it was fine, but if I'm spinning out from standstill on a race day, I could cause damage to mine and other cars if someone hits me from behind going full throttle.
(it never span out while on throttle and racing , just from a standstill posiition )
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:08 AM   #1708
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Hi guys,just wondering have just received the new 1.6mm top deck and 2.0mm chassis as we run on low traction asphalt.I have read on xrays website this,


When changing the chassis, the roll centers will be 0.5mm lower compared to the standard chassis. Therefore, to keep the same roll center height you need to use 0.5mm shims under all lower suspension blocks.

Should i just change the chassis straight over or add the shims? Would 0.5mm lower roll center be better anyway as allowing the car to roll more ending up with more overall grip or am I completely wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated.Cheers.
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:12 AM   #1709
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Default A-Plus T3 Opition Parts

A Plus XRAY T3 Alu. Upper Clamp with Adj. Roll-center (L+R) #21003

Xray T3 2012-21003_wm.jpg

A Plus XRAY T3 Lipo Battery Mount #21801

Xray T3 2012-21801_wm.jpg

www.rcgoods.com
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Old 03-05-2012, 01:13 AM   #1710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XSLR8 View Post
Hi guys,just wondering have just received the new 1.6mm top deck and 2.0mm chassis as we run on low traction asphalt.I have read on xrays website this,


When changing the chassis, the roll centers will be 0.5mm lower compared to the standard chassis. Therefore, to keep the same roll center height you need to use 0.5mm shims under all lower suspension blocks.

Should i just change the chassis straight over or add the shims? Would 0.5mm lower roll center be better anyway as allowing the car to roll more ending up with more overall grip or am I completely wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated.Cheers.
A lower roll centre will give more overall traction. However, I would add the shims, that way you can see if the chassis alone is making a difference, you can always take shims out
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