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Old 02-23-2012, 08:09 AM   #1561
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Originally Posted by Fred Hubbard View Post
I'm quite sure it's been close to a year. Every time I change oil or freshen it up I clear off each bladder and inspect it for tears along the lip and swelling. When I tighten down the cap it's only to the point to where I start to feel a some resistance because initially when I did have issues with them ripping it was due to tighening the cap down too much.
Sounds good....I assume you are using Xray oils.

I have been using Muchmore and it seems to be OK. Honestly the shocks stay pretty good, so I have not been refreshing them as often as I would think. I check them every race day for rebound and air and so far I have gone many weeks without the need to refresh them.
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:17 AM   #1562
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I am being very honest that most all of us have bladder failures quite often at our track! I keep 2 packs on hand and I run Losi oil.
A lot of the drivers i know have switched to the Tamiya trf bladders (53576). They are a perfect fit, much stronger and supposedly make it easier to set rebound accurately!
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Old 02-23-2012, 01:23 PM   #1563
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The only time I had bladder issues was from over tightening the caps as well. During the assembly I did make sure to sand the tops of the shock body so the mold seam was gone and gave a nice flat surface and not a sharp edge to cut the bladder.
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Old 02-23-2012, 01:41 PM   #1564
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Sounds good....I assume you are using Xray oils.

I have been using Muchmore and it seems to be OK. Honestly the shocks stay pretty good, so I have not been refreshing them as often as I would think. I check them every race day for rebound and air and so far I have gone many weeks without the need to refresh them.
I've used the MM with no adverse affects before and I check them several times a day while attached to the car and listen for bubbles. Hell I do the same thing with the car when I'm not at the track, I just did it last night You're correct if the shocks are built correctly then they will "feel good" for a while.
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:16 PM   #1565
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Originally Posted by Matt W View Post
A lot of the drivers i know have switched to the Tamiya trf bladders (53576). They are a perfect fit, much stronger and supposedly make it easier to set rebound accurately!
I actually bought some Tamiya bladders shortly after our shorties were released and I had my issues with them tearing and fully intended to use the Tamiya ones but never had to once I discovered my issue was user error and they have been in my parts box for almost a year as well. I have never had any issue with making my shocks dead, both the composite or aluminum. The absolute best and easiest process for building the composite's is Paul's method and for the aluminum it's even easier. FYI Paul doesn't use and shock pump to get rid of the air bubbles and just uses his HUDY car stand to old his shocks.

Paul LeMieux's XRAY Composite Shock Building Process

***You must have a rebound hole in the composite portion of the shock cap***

1) Add oil to the shock and use a RIDE shock pump to remove all air bubbles.
2) With the shock shaft fully extended place the bladder on top of the shock body and ensure that the bladder is sitting flush. I accomplish this by burping the bladder, which means that I hold down one side of the bladder which on the shock body and then I press the other side on in such a fashion that it expells the excess oil.
3) With the shaft still fully extended I put the full shock cap on body and reverse thread it ever so slighty until I feel the cap snap into place then I screw the cap on only to the point to where it just begins to stop turning. If you screw it on slow enough you will feel the resistance. There should be a .5mm -.75mm gap between the cap and the body of the shock.
4) With the shaft still fully extended I place the shock in the RIDE shock pump so that it's inverted and I let them site for a few minutes. This will let any remaining air bubbles rise to the shaft end of the shock.
5) I use a Hudy shock tool and remove the bottom cap of the shock and very slowly press the shock shaft all the way in and while holding the shaft in I reattach the cap with the HUDY shock tool.


Fred Hubbard's XRAY Aluminum Shock Building Process

***You must have a rebound hole in the composite portion of the shock cap***

1) Add oil to the shock and use a RIDE shock pump to remove all air bubbles.
2) With the shock shaft fully extended place the bladder on top of the shock body and ensure that the bladder is sitting flush. I accomplish this by burping the bladder, which means that I hold down one side of the bladder which on the shock body and then I press the other side on in such a fashion that it expells the excess oil.
3) With the shaft still fully extended I put the full shock cap on body and reverse thread it ever so slighty until I feel the cap snap into place then I screw the cap on only to the point to where it just begins to stop turning. If you screw it on slow enough you will feel the resistance. There should be a .5mm -.75mm gap between the cap and the body of the shock.

The process for both shock types will result in a fairly dead shock. I consider 0% - 10% rebound as no rebound because I've found you really can't feel any change within the window.
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:28 PM   #1566
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What's the difference (in MM's) between the hinge pin height with the three different carriers?
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:31 PM   #1567
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What's the difference (in MM's) between the hinge pin height with the three different carriers?
.75
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:55 PM   #1568
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.75
.75 each step, or from lowest to highest?
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:58 PM   #1569
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
.75 each step, or from lowest to highest?
Yes, it goes as followed: -.75, 0, +.75 are the three types of suspension pins the kit includes. Anything in between that, you're able to adjust using a shim/spacer underneath the suspension mount(s) for finer adjustment.
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:58 PM   #1570
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Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
.75 each step, or from lowest to highest?
Each step from lowest to highest, so from the stand carrier, the low is -.75mm and the high is +.75mm
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:43 PM   #1571
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Hey guys, I got to drive my car tonight for the first time. Two words can describe this car to me, Absolutely Killer!! I put the box setup on it, using the droop the manual shows, the kit oils, springs, everything. Just used my own camber starting point. The car was perfect, dialed, didnt touch a board all night in 2 quallies, a main, and 3 practice runs before the qualifying started. Was consistently 2-3 tenths faster then anybody else, and tq'd by more then a lap on nearly an untouchable pace for even high traction saturday conditions. Our track is indoor tennis grade high grip asphalt, Traction was fairly low compared to a saturday club race and i still ran a pace that is hard to achieve even on saturdays. This is about the best sedan i have ever ran and i have litterally tried them all except the yokomo. Great car, cant wait until the 2013 model
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Old 02-24-2012, 03:01 AM   #1572
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Hi Guys,

I got a set of 50mm ECS's today, I was just wondering is it as simple as heat shrinking them, to prevent the pins coming out?

Or will be heat shrink be too thick and touch the carriers?

Thank You,

Nathan
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Old 02-24-2012, 03:19 AM   #1573
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Originally Posted by NR View Post
Hi Guys,

I got a set of 50mm ECS's today, I was just wondering is it as simple as heat shrinking them, to prevent the pins coming out?

Or will be heat shrink be too thick and touch the carriers?

Thank You,

Nathan
That depends on the heatshrink.
If your getting some from a more specialist retailer it will normally tell you what the 'wall' thickness is once shrunk.

I wouls also advise getting transparent shrink as it allow you to see how much much is in there etc.

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Old 02-24-2012, 05:47 AM   #1574
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Originally Posted by NR View Post
Hi Guys,

I got a set of 50mm ECS's today, I was just wondering is it as simple as heat shrinking them, to prevent the pins coming out?

Or will be heat shrink be too thick and touch the carriers?

Thank You,

Nathan
I use the stuff from the hardware store, Home Depot/Lowes and it works fine.
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Old 02-24-2012, 06:37 AM   #1575
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Yes indeed, the Xray T3 '12 does rule. Take a look at the results.
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