RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10126876-post211.html

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

just glued my first set of foam donuts yesterday, hmm what and experience they seemed to turn out quite straight in the end.

quick question after putting the diff together, and setting diff tightness, i noticed i had some wobble in the rear tyres coming from the diff/axle assembly? is this just the quality of the parts or do i have a bend shaft, one thing i did notice was if i continued to tighten the diff nut to a point of almost locked solid it got rid of the wobble!!

tommy911t

iTrader: (50)

My RM01 just showed up today. I'd like to use the included 380 with a CRC shorty 1s. Been a while since I've used brushed motors. Any ESC recommendations?
I'd be interested in using an XP from Associated's 1/18 rtrs if possible.
What is an appropriate esc for TCS silvercan?
Thanks. And thanks for all the info on this thread!

bakaguyjean

iTrader: (1)

Get a shorty 2 cell lipo,works much better. a 1 cell will be way to slow. But the 380 motor will run really hot so don`t get surprised.If you run 1 cell you will need a booster or a 1 cell xp. 1 cell voltage might not be enough for the xp you want to use if it has voltage drop cut off.
A 2cell will let you use just about any xp you have laying around.

addicted2blue

I'm using a Lipo battery for a 1/18 scale car, works great and doesn't weight that much.
But there are new batteries on the market, they have the same size as 1/12th 1cell lipo batteries but they are 2 cell batteries and have a higher capacity then 1/18th batteries.
I'm using a fletcha esc from muchmore (originaly ko propo esc's) but it doesn't have a build in lipo cut-off. If you want that it's better to search for an LRP quantom (pro) II, this esc has a lipo cut-off.

tommy911t

iTrader: (50)

Thanks for the responses to my esc/batt questions.
I'm trying to get my ducks in order for this winter(carpet)

I thought using the 380/1s crc shorty would be a great way to lighten things overall. I guess I was hoping to use that free 380, but if it doesnt apply to club racing I'll shelve it.

It looks like 17.5/2s is the way to go for my area. Which I can do. Would anyone recommend the Protek 2s slim/shorty for 1/12 blinky? It looks to be a good choice. Or is the crc short 1s with 17.5 a good option.

I come from off road 2s mod and stock, so a lot of this is new to me. I run LRP escs but am open to suggestions.

Got my first Tamiya RC build under my belt.
Hope this will be a fun intro for me to 1/12 and eventually F1.

Sorry for the rambling!
Thanks again

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

quick question.

Im getting some serious conning on the front tires after one race.

Is there something i can do to to minimize the amount by changing something on setup, or is it just because the way the front end is designed!!

or is it just one of those things in running 1/12 where I have to put up with truing it down before each run

thanks in advance 8-)

madjack

iTrader: (28)

Which front tires are you running?

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

ive used both the kit and option tamiya's

but i will probably go and try some of the xceed or enneti foams as i can get them locally. 1/12 isnt very big where i am so its hard to get a big range of stuff unless i order from HK

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

I've had much better results with the option fronts as far as wear is concerned.
Both sets, option and kit fronts work very well but the kits will wear instantly.
The rears are a matter of personal preference. I've used both type rears on the same day and my feeling is that the kit rear tires have better grip but sometimes is too much.

I)arkness

iTrader: (7)

yeah the kit fronts feel much softer then the option and they did chewed down pretty fast.

one thing i noticed, the kit rears seemed a bit narrower and profile was not as round as the options

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

High wear, or coning of the front tires is the sign of an understeer issue
Try less pre-load on the side springs, and, or a softer setup all around to get more chassis roll, and more steering

You can also adjust camber to help alleviate coning by using a piece of thin card under front arms

cossy4s

shown in a RM-01 option parts flyer

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Well I finally put together the Full Option RM

Race/Shakedown at TQRC this past Sun
Result. TQ and the W in Mod

Car was on rails after a bit of tuning
This thing is a lot of fun to race !

The carbon/aluminum upgrades turn a mellow RM into a racing Thoroughbred
It is much more responsive, and turns in very sharp

Was thinking the car would be awesome with a wide (172mm setup)
Turns out, I couldn't be more wrong about that, the longer standard bearing axles(54366) allow a wider front end, however the cars handles much better closer the stock kit width
The geometry is all out of sorts by widening the kit with long front axles and spacers, the standard bearing axles are handy for using US spec wheels though

Front camber was near perfect, tires wore nice and flat if rotated every run

Here's a few pics, and the setup

scribbler

iTrader: (1)

If Tamiya has a 1:12 scale, who`s left that dosen`t offer one. neat looking car.