lightweight touring bodies, do they last?
 

as topic says

protoform bodies, how do the lightweight bodies last against the normal weight ones?

and what is the benefits more than less weight?

From my experience running 17.5:
1. Lightweight body is still quite durable because it absorbs impact a bit better than the regular weight, but when clipped, it could tear more than the regular weight as well.
2. If someone hits the lightweight body, it has a lot higher chance of getting a body-tuck, which could cost a few laps.
3. Less weight, which makes the center of gravity lower overall. Also makes the car roll less.

LW or reg., I find my shells with the crappiest looking paint jobs seem to always last the longest. It seems the more effort I put into doing a nice paint scheme, the less time it will last. The shells aren't cracking up on masking lines or anything like that. It just seems I have terrible luck keeping a nicely painted shell for more than a few race days. The ones I paint in 10 minutes always seem to last months though. :lol:

In general for most other people, what eComet said seems to be accurate. :)

Same here! Iv givin up on nice paint jobs. Every body i buy onroad/offroad dont matter they all get the good old blue to black fade lol.

Alot off people believe that the LW bodies (and the rear wing in particular) flex more at speed so provide less downforce.

My exp is that LW bodies don't last long at all if you crash.

Performance vs. Durability.

LW is better. But its less durable thats for sure. Anyone fast is running LW, I promise. But they are using RW wings. So unless you are in that top tier of driver it might be better to use reg weight until your skill level is at a point were you are not crashing that much to get some life out of a LW body. Crazy paint jobs have lots of cuts and all those cuts can tear and split. I would rec using the decal headlights and grills for LW bodies unless you're really good. Headlights and grills are bound to split on a good board smack. 1/12 LW bodies are ultra thin... its a joke.

My experience is the opposite. My LW tamiya bodies have outlasted the normal ones. The normal thickness tend to "shatter" then bend like the thin LW bodies. Of course, if you shear the LW they will rip easier. I use a thin layer of shoogoo under places like the front wheel arch and the front spoiler. I also use foam bumpers that are larger than the space between the nose of the chassis and body. I then custom cut the bumper to fit the contour of that space. You end up with front end supports for your body that will make it less prone to cracking and actually helps with aerodynamics.

Is that why you did the two second parking lot paint job on the weekend Locked:lol: That orange is sick BTW. Going to be at DRCRC on the 24th & 25th, will have your Sweep's with me.

My experience is that they last longer. They don't tend to crack as easy as the thick bodies. Therefore you see the marks of every chrash because it bends more. Therefore it won't break as fast. For all who work hard to find the last 2-3 tenth a lap to go with the local top drivers this is the way to bite off the first 0,05s - 0,1s by putting the saved weight near the c.o.g..

I've only recently got myself a lw body shell and have not even used it yet. I can however immediately notice the massive benefit it will give you over a standard weight.

With the new shell sprayed up, it is coming in 22g lighter than the normal weight. Although this doesn't sound much, if you think about it, this is unsprung weight, plus you have got to take into consideration g-force.

These cars are probably generating in excess of 5g when going round a sweeper at the end of a straight, if you say conservatively they generate 3G, this then makes the actual weight of my new lw shell 66g lighter going round a bend! When you then think about the position of the unsprung weight.......that is a huge amount!

In terms of durability, they do seem very "soft" in comparison, even reaming out holes, the reamer seems to push the lexan out of the way rather than file it, so I think they will bend and dent a lot easier but won't crack as easy, and it's the cracking which really reduces the life!

I would suggest that if you are going to fit an LW you may want to fit a third central body post off the front shock tower.
In a front impact it helps stop the body bending up across the top inbetween the front wheelarches.
Since doing this my bodyshells haven't had any of the usual splits above the front arches.

It will also help stop the wind resistance from distorting the front of the bodyshell.

Skiddins

done this already ;)

How often do you touch the boards, or corner markers? Driving skill is the biggest factor in how long your bodies last.

Cheers

Actually, it's sprung weight.
The benefit in regards to mass of a lightweight body is a lower CG, it's still mounted to the chassis, which is carried by the springs, so there's a reduction in sprung weight, not a reduction in unsprung weight.

The usual bench mark for a rubber tire on flat pavement in regards to G's pulled around a corner without aerodynamic aid is 1.3G. A formula one car generating 2.5 times the physical weight of the car aerodynamically will briefly touch 3.5 G.

Without a physical measurement, I would doubt a TC is pulling more than 2 G [on the high side] with a GBS body. Even with that, your logic is still flawed, as the major benefit is still from a lower CG, which would allow for more efficient cornering on a properly set-up car.

I agree with this. ;)

Properly supported, the LW bodies to seem to hold up better, as long as any contact doesn't result in ripping the body, such as sharp track barrier corners, nails/screw heads, etc.

well in all years of driving touringcar i have never tried a lw body

i dont crash so often (or i try not atleast :) ) so i ordered a lw just to try it out

thanks for all the answers!