1LikesWhats your favorite heat sink??
09-12-2011, 07:11 PM
#1
Whats your favorite heat sink??
I was just wondering about this because im planning to get a new heatsink soon.
P.S my old heatsink doesnt work correctly either. 
09-12-2011, 08:50 PM
#2
Hope this helps....
09-12-2011, 09:13 PM
#3
if you are asking heatsink for the motor, don't... it holds the heat in the motor...
I was just wondering about this because im planning to get a new heatsink soon.
09-13-2011, 02:06 AM
#4
My single fan for high turn and cool weather is this one: http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/ya...pe-p-2736.html
About my twin for low turn and hot weather is this one: http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/ya...rs-p-2903.html
About my twin for low turn and hot weather is this one: http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/ya...rs-p-2903.html
09-13-2011, 05:36 AM
#5
Thanks!!!!!
Thanks for the recommendations keep em comin!!!! 
09-13-2011, 05:54 AM
#6
Are you racing or just bashing and want to keep things cool? ROAR rules, and most local rules, allow for ONE fan only for the motor, and one on the ESC. Choose wisely. If you're just bashing, you can load up as many fans as you can physically fit!
When I came back to RC a little over a year ago, I started down the road of heatsinks and fans based on my experience with brushed motors. I didn't listen to the guys who had been running brushless for the last few years and already had cooling figured out. I now have a box full of upwards of 30 broken fans and nearly two dozen different heat sinks of all nature and design. At one point on one certain day I tried over 20 different fan/heatsink combinations on controlled 4 minute runs, always starting at the same motor temp with a freshly peaked battery running the same number of laps. Kept a very nice chart, too.
I'm sure that some will disagree with the wall of text below, but I have yet to burn out a motor due to heat, and my cars are as fast as the fast guys on my track (it's my driving, not the car!)
Yes, some heatsinks actually did little or nothing to help cool the motor. None of the heatsinks actually made the motor hotter, as there aren't any cooling vents on the cans of the motors (like old brushed motors) to block the flow of air! The motor itself is generating the heat. Unless the heatsink itself is actually generating more heat than the motor, it can't make it hotter!
Most fans are pure, highly distilled, certified crap. When used on brushless motors, most heatsinks are in that category, too.
NOTHING, and I do mean NOTHING worked better in my testing than a simple Boss/Geisha/Fantom fan wired directly to ESC +/- and shoe goo'd to the chassis behind the motor, blowing air onto the motor. This particular set up keeps the motors cool even slightly overgeared on large outdoor tracks with ambient temps over 100*F.
This is what I learned:
All of the fast guys in blinky gear for the track, then gear up as fast as temps will allow them to go without going into thermal shut down on the ESC or damaging the motor. Having a fan on your motor is essential to being able to get enough speed to compete in any blinky class. If you can get a 10-12*F (or more) advantage to be able to swing more teeth on your pinion, you'll be physically able to go faster. From there you'll want to adjust motor physical timing to get back some torque.
Most brushless motors, by dialing back the timing from max, will deliver more torque to spin a bigger pinion than they will deliver RPMs to spin a slightly smaller pinion at higher RPMs. Advantage: lower physical timing+huge pinion+fan=faster car.
Summary: a cooler motor allows for more pinion teeth=more speed. Less physical timing in the motor=less heat. Low physical timing(more torque, lower total RPM) + large pinion often is faster than high physical timing(less torque, higher total RPM) + smaller pinion for a given motor temperature.
But I could be wrong. It's happened before.
When I came back to RC a little over a year ago, I started down the road of heatsinks and fans based on my experience with brushed motors. I didn't listen to the guys who had been running brushless for the last few years and already had cooling figured out. I now have a box full of upwards of 30 broken fans and nearly two dozen different heat sinks of all nature and design. At one point on one certain day I tried over 20 different fan/heatsink combinations on controlled 4 minute runs, always starting at the same motor temp with a freshly peaked battery running the same number of laps. Kept a very nice chart, too.
I'm sure that some will disagree with the wall of text below, but I have yet to burn out a motor due to heat, and my cars are as fast as the fast guys on my track (it's my driving, not the car!)
Yes, some heatsinks actually did little or nothing to help cool the motor. None of the heatsinks actually made the motor hotter, as there aren't any cooling vents on the cans of the motors (like old brushed motors) to block the flow of air! The motor itself is generating the heat. Unless the heatsink itself is actually generating more heat than the motor, it can't make it hotter!
Most fans are pure, highly distilled, certified crap. When used on brushless motors, most heatsinks are in that category, too.
NOTHING, and I do mean NOTHING worked better in my testing than a simple Boss/Geisha/Fantom fan wired directly to ESC +/- and shoe goo'd to the chassis behind the motor, blowing air onto the motor. This particular set up keeps the motors cool even slightly overgeared on large outdoor tracks with ambient temps over 100*F.
This is what I learned:
- Not all heat sinks are created equal or fit well enough to actually work. Without a perfect fit, they don't actually conduct much heat. Many brushless motors have corregated stator cans to increase surface area to assist in radiating heat
- Using thermal paste between the heatsink and motor can is messy, and allows the heatsink to move around more when in a crash, but it does help the heatsink move heat away from the motor, as long as your fan is actually moving enough air and the design of the heatsink does not impeade that flow of air.
- Most heat sinks move around in a crash, and since most of them have sharp fins, can cut through motor wire insulation and short things out (ask me how I know)
- Not all fans on heat sinks are created equal. Some will work on direct ESC+/-, some only on BEC voltage
- Most fans aren't up to the task because they don't move enough air or the design of the heatsink impeads the flow of air. Some are also fragile enough that in a crash they'll actually flex blades enough to break them off or shed the entire rotor completely
- The Boss/Fantom/Geisha fans are by FAR the best. Check out Sidepiece racing, should have more available soon
- A good close second to the above fans is the Yeah Racing Tornado fan (30mm). One half step down from that is the Muchmore super fan
- Good fans can be had for under $15, but supply is spotty, at best
- Most of the fans available on ebay are crap
- A good 30mm fan, wired to ESC +/-, shoe goo'd to the chassis blowing on the motor, is lighter and cools the motor better than any of the dozens of heat sink/fan combos that I tried
All of the fast guys in blinky gear for the track, then gear up as fast as temps will allow them to go without going into thermal shut down on the ESC or damaging the motor. Having a fan on your motor is essential to being able to get enough speed to compete in any blinky class. If you can get a 10-12*F (or more) advantage to be able to swing more teeth on your pinion, you'll be physically able to go faster. From there you'll want to adjust motor physical timing to get back some torque.
Most brushless motors, by dialing back the timing from max, will deliver more torque to spin a bigger pinion than they will deliver RPMs to spin a slightly smaller pinion at higher RPMs. Advantage: lower physical timing+huge pinion+fan=faster car.
Summary: a cooler motor allows for more pinion teeth=more speed. Less physical timing in the motor=less heat. Low physical timing(more torque, lower total RPM) + large pinion often is faster than high physical timing(less torque, higher total RPM) + smaller pinion for a given motor temperature.
But I could be wrong. It's happened before.
Last edited by Buckaroo; 09-13-2011 at 08:24 AM. Reason: Spelling
09-13-2011, 08:00 AM
#7
I'm sure that some will disagree with the wall of text below, but I have yet to burn out a motor due to heat, and my cars are as fast as the fast guys on my track (it's my driving, not the car!)
Most fans are pure, highly distilled, certified crap. When used on brushless motors, most heatsinks are in that category, too.
Most fans are pure, highly distilled, certified crap. When used on brushless motors, most heatsinks are in that category, too.
(the entire post that the above excerpts were taken from is fantastic, and should be bookmarked and/or pasted into some kind of brushless motor 'black book').
for some reason, everyone loves to believe the hocus pocus crap about horsepower. it's very simple, and not even that critical in many of the cases. ..
in fact, i think most of us choose to believe in the 'magic' so that we don't have to face the 'music'.
09-13-2011, 03:21 PM
#8
Are you racing or just bashing and want to keep things cool? ROAR rules, and most local rules, allow for ONE fan only for the motor, and one on the ESC. Choose wisely. If you're just bashing, you can load up as many fans as you can physically fit!
When I came back to RC a little over a year ago, I started down the road of heatsinks and fans based on my experience with brushed motors. I didn't listen to the guys who had been running brushless for the last few years and already had cooling figured out. I now have a box full of upwards of 30 broken fans and nearly two dozen different heat sinks of all nature and design. At one point on one certain day I tried over 20 different fan/heatsink combinations on controlled 4 minute runs, always starting at the same motor temp with a freshly peaked battery running the same number of laps. Kept a very nice chart, too.
I'm sure that some will disagree with the wall of text below, but I have yet to burn out a motor due to heat, and my cars are as fast as the fast guys on my track (it's my driving, not the car!)
Yes, some heatsinks actually did little or nothing to help cool the motor. None of the heatsinks actually made the motor hotter, as there aren't any cooling vents on the cans of the motors (like old brushed motors) to block the flow of air! The motor itself is generating the heat. Unless the heatsink itself is actually generating more heat than the motor, it can't make it hotter!
Most fans are pure, highly distilled, certified crap. When used on brushless motors, most heatsinks are in that category, too.
NOTHING, and I do mean NOTHING worked better in my testing than a simple Boss/Geisha/Fantom fan wired directly to ESC +/- and shoe goo'd to the chassis behind the motor, blowing air onto the motor. This particular set up keeps the motors cool even slightly overgeared on large outdoor tracks with ambient temps over 100*F.
This is what I learned:
All of the fast guys in blinky gear for the track, then gear up as fast as temps will allow them to go without going into thermal shut down on the ESC or damaging the motor. Having a fan on your motor is essential to being able to get enough speed to compete in any blinky class. If you can get a 10-12*F (or more) advantage to be able to swing more teeth on your pinion, you'll be physically able to go faster. From there you'll want to adjust motor physical timing to get back some torque.
Most brushless motors, by dialing back the timing from max, will deliver more torque to spin a bigger pinion than they will deliver RPMs to spin a slightly smaller pinion at higher RPMs. Advantage: lower physical timing+huge pinion+fan=faster car.
Summary: a cooler motor allows for more pinion teeth=more speed. Less physical timing in the motor=less heat. Low physical timing(more torque, lower total RPM) + large pinion often is faster than high physical timing(less torque, higher total RPM) + smaller pinion for a given motor temperature.
But I could be wrong. It's happened before.
When I came back to RC a little over a year ago, I started down the road of heatsinks and fans based on my experience with brushed motors. I didn't listen to the guys who had been running brushless for the last few years and already had cooling figured out. I now have a box full of upwards of 30 broken fans and nearly two dozen different heat sinks of all nature and design. At one point on one certain day I tried over 20 different fan/heatsink combinations on controlled 4 minute runs, always starting at the same motor temp with a freshly peaked battery running the same number of laps. Kept a very nice chart, too.
I'm sure that some will disagree with the wall of text below, but I have yet to burn out a motor due to heat, and my cars are as fast as the fast guys on my track (it's my driving, not the car!)
Yes, some heatsinks actually did little or nothing to help cool the motor. None of the heatsinks actually made the motor hotter, as there aren't any cooling vents on the cans of the motors (like old brushed motors) to block the flow of air! The motor itself is generating the heat. Unless the heatsink itself is actually generating more heat than the motor, it can't make it hotter!
Most fans are pure, highly distilled, certified crap. When used on brushless motors, most heatsinks are in that category, too.
NOTHING, and I do mean NOTHING worked better in my testing than a simple Boss/Geisha/Fantom fan wired directly to ESC +/- and shoe goo'd to the chassis behind the motor, blowing air onto the motor. This particular set up keeps the motors cool even slightly overgeared on large outdoor tracks with ambient temps over 100*F.
This is what I learned:
- Not all heat sinks are created equal or fit well enough to actually work. Without a perfect fit, they don't actually conduct much heat. Many brushless motors have corregated stator cans to increase surface area to assist in radiating heat
- Using thermal paste between the heatsink and motor can is messy, and allows the heatsink to move around more when in a crash, but it does help the heatsink move heat away from the motor, as long as your fan is actually moving enough air and the design of the heatsink does not impeade that flow of air.
- Most heat sinks move around in a crash, and since most of them have sharp fins, can cut through motor wire insulation and short things out (ask me how I know)
- Not all fans on heat sinks are created equal. Some will work on direct ESC+/-, some only on BEC voltage
- Most fans aren't up to the task because they don't move enough air or the design of the heatsink impeads the flow of air. Some are also fragile enough that in a crash they'll actually flex blades enough to break them off or shed the entire rotor completely
- The Boss/Fantom/Geisha fans are by FAR the best. Check out Sidepiece racing, should have more available soon
- A good close second to the above fans is the Yeah Racing Tornado fan (30mm). One half step down from that is the Muchmore super fan
- Good fans can be had for under $15, but supply is spotty, at best
- Most of the fans available on ebay are crap
- A good 30mm fan, wired to ESC +/-, shoe goo'd to the chassis blowing on the motor, is lighter and cools the motor better than any of the dozens of heat sink/fan combos that I tried
All of the fast guys in blinky gear for the track, then gear up as fast as temps will allow them to go without going into thermal shut down on the ESC or damaging the motor. Having a fan on your motor is essential to being able to get enough speed to compete in any blinky class. If you can get a 10-12*F (or more) advantage to be able to swing more teeth on your pinion, you'll be physically able to go faster. From there you'll want to adjust motor physical timing to get back some torque.
Most brushless motors, by dialing back the timing from max, will deliver more torque to spin a bigger pinion than they will deliver RPMs to spin a slightly smaller pinion at higher RPMs. Advantage: lower physical timing+huge pinion+fan=faster car.
Summary: a cooler motor allows for more pinion teeth=more speed. Less physical timing in the motor=less heat. Low physical timing(more torque, lower total RPM) + large pinion often is faster than high physical timing(less torque, higher total RPM) + smaller pinion for a given motor temperature.
But I could be wrong. It's happened before.
09-13-2011, 06:52 PM
#9
WOW!!! thats very good to know i guess ill worry more about the fan then!!!
09-13-2011, 08:27 PM
#10
Ok, anyone willing to share some pictures of both the fan mounted on the ESC (I have a tekin RS) and to the motor...
Just to get some ideas....
I thought the reason for the tall posts on the Tekin was the heat sync... Thus do you face the fan at the posts?
From the motor I want to see if you put the fan out on the end bell, center or more to the inside.
I was not aware that ROAR only allows one fan, many thanks and good to know....
Just to get some ideas....
I thought the reason for the tall posts on the Tekin was the heat sync... Thus do you face the fan at the posts?
From the motor I want to see if you put the fan out on the end bell, center or more to the inside.
I was not aware that ROAR only allows one fan, many thanks and good to know....
09-13-2011, 08:28 PM
#11
If you're using Novak motors I find their Motor Sleeve Heat Sink works well. It replaces the colored sleeve on Novak's Ballistic, Velociti and SS-Series motors and wraps directly around the stator. Used with thermal paste it works quite well...
...here it is installed.
...here it is installed.
09-13-2011, 08:39 PM
#12
Great reading so far. I have been worried about fan/heat sink combo since coming back and having to learn brushless motors.
Just 1 thing did you test having a heat sink on the motor and the fan on the chassis at all?
Just 1 thing did you test having a heat sink on the motor and the fan on the chassis at all?
09-13-2011, 08:56 PM
#14
A few posts up someone said they point at fan at the endbell of the motor and have good results with that, what they have done is inadvertently moved air over a greater surface area, and thus have better cooling results. Endbell + the entire can and motor mount if its alloy is better than just 1 side of the can alone.
09-13-2011, 09:11 PM
#15
Heatsinks
For stock racing with our old weight limit of 1425..I used the LRP Heatsink combo http://www.lrp.cc/en/products/new-pr...efter/details/.. it provides a little improvment over the Yeahracing Tornado Fans.. 5 or so Degrees approx.. hard to tell.. for our old weight limited I needed the extra weight on the motor side so thought it would be better being a heatsink then lead..
Now that the weight has dropped down for us to 1380 I have changed to just a fantom fan and its running cooler.. when the car was over 1425 could not get away with this..
Now that the weight has dropped down for us to 1380 I have changed to just a fantom fan and its running cooler.. when the car was over 1425 could not get away with this..