Damper
09-11-2011, 06:40 PM
#1
Damper
hey guy i kind of suck in damper setting, can anyone help explain to a noob(like me) on why the damper piston set come with 1 hole 2hole and 3 hole wats the purpose also how to select the correct damper oil, exp if i want my front side a bit harder than rear and soft at the rear the coil spring i am using are medium soft rear and medium hard front so what are the piston and oil i should choose in order to get the correct setting of more grip at the rear and front still have grip.
? plz help....
? plz help....
09-11-2011, 09:32 PM
#2
This part of the forums are not for car setup issues, they're for issues with the website itself, so I'm moving this to the onroad forum(from what I can see it looks like you're dealing mostly with onroad stuff), it should get some answers there, & it would also help if you'd be more specific about the car you're dealing with & what you're racing on(carpet, asphalt, concrete, etc. etc.)....
09-11-2011, 09:43 PM
#3
This part of the forums are not for car setup issues, they're for issues with the website itself, so I'm moving this to the onroad forum(from what I can see it looks like you're dealing mostly with onroad stuff), it should get some answers there, & it would also help if you'd be more specific about the car you're dealing with & what you're racing on(carpet, asphalt, concrete, etc. etc.)....
09-11-2011, 09:46 PM
#4
The short answer is to get setup help for your specific car.
Your question can't be answered without understanding your driving conditions, the car in question, class you're running, etc.
For the theory side:
Shock oil slows down how fast the suspension can move, and prevents spring oscillation after bumps. Thicker oil restricts suspension movement to a slower speed, and thinner oil allows a faster suspension movement.
That's the easy part.
Different number, the sizes, of holes in the shock piston work with the shock oil choice to control the speed of the suspension travel, but can also play a roll in what we call "pack" on the shock.
If the suspension is required to move faster than the shock oil can reasonably move around, and through, the shock piston, pressure is built on top of the shock piston due to the shock oil "packing", or trying to be compressed against the shock bladder. This makes the shock dampening go very stiff until the oil equalizes pressure on each side of the shock piston. Larger, or more, holes in the shock piston, and lighter shock oils will have less noticeable "pack".
Shock rebound settings can also play an effect on shock pack, with less rebound leading to less pack.
If you're just starting out, it may make the most sense for your experimentation to start with the same shock pistons front and rear, and tune only by shock oil thickness and rebound settings. As you get acclimated to how the car handles, try different shock piston and oil combos front and rear if you like.
Your question can't be answered without understanding your driving conditions, the car in question, class you're running, etc.
For the theory side:
Shock oil slows down how fast the suspension can move, and prevents spring oscillation after bumps. Thicker oil restricts suspension movement to a slower speed, and thinner oil allows a faster suspension movement.
That's the easy part.
Different number, the sizes, of holes in the shock piston work with the shock oil choice to control the speed of the suspension travel, but can also play a roll in what we call "pack" on the shock.
If the suspension is required to move faster than the shock oil can reasonably move around, and through, the shock piston, pressure is built on top of the shock piston due to the shock oil "packing", or trying to be compressed against the shock bladder. This makes the shock dampening go very stiff until the oil equalizes pressure on each side of the shock piston. Larger, or more, holes in the shock piston, and lighter shock oils will have less noticeable "pack".
Shock rebound settings can also play an effect on shock pack, with less rebound leading to less pack.
If you're just starting out, it may make the most sense for your experimentation to start with the same shock pistons front and rear, and tune only by shock oil thickness and rebound settings. As you get acclimated to how the car handles, try different shock piston and oil combos front and rear if you like.
09-12-2011, 06:08 AM
#5
Sounds like you need a copy of the XXXMain suspension set up book. Provides theory, application, and troubleshooting.
Click here for a link to the book that you need
Click here for a link to the book that you need
09-12-2011, 05:36 PM
#6
I have both the XXX Main book as well as the XRay Chassis Setup Guide. In my opionion, the XRay is far better and it's free to download from http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=2525.
The XXX Main explains everything in terms of simple weight transfer to the front or back, but in my experience, it's not always true like that. It makes understanding simpler but when you really dig into the physics of car handling, weight transfer is only part of the equations. Also, the book is written quite a while ago for chassis around the 2000-2004 era, while the Xray represents newer chassis around 2005+.
If you have time and money, I recommend you buy the XXX Main book plus download the XRay T2 Setup Guide and study them back-to-back.
The XXX Main explains everything in terms of simple weight transfer to the front or back, but in my experience, it's not always true like that. It makes understanding simpler but when you really dig into the physics of car handling, weight transfer is only part of the equations. Also, the book is written quite a while ago for chassis around the 2000-2004 era, while the Xray represents newer chassis around 2005+.
If you have time and money, I recommend you buy the XXX Main book plus download the XRay T2 Setup Guide and study them back-to-back.
09-12-2011, 06:02 PM
#8
damper
basically i am playing more to electric on road cars, i play drag, touring and also drift what confuse me is on how to get the damper right. exp if i want more gripe on the front how can i tune the damper so that it will have more grip to the front some people recommended to me soften the front damper and change piston, does it really help?
09-12-2011, 06:11 PM
#9
Short answer: Yes it can help.
Long answer: Chassis setup is 100% compromise, and there's lots of ways to get the grip level and balance you're looking for through lots of different setup changes, each with their own draw backs, and advantages. Read everything you can find on chassis setup, experiment, and keep notes. Everyone drives differently, so you need a bit of experience on your side [either your own, or a local knowledgeable helper] to get handling how YOU want it.
Long answer: Chassis setup is 100% compromise, and there's lots of ways to get the grip level and balance you're looking for through lots of different setup changes, each with their own draw backs, and advantages. Read everything you can find on chassis setup, experiment, and keep notes. Everyone drives differently, so you need a bit of experience on your side [either your own, or a local knowledgeable helper] to get handling how YOU want it.
09-12-2011, 06:18 PM
#10
There are a lot of tuning options for a car.
Damping only controls how fast the weight transfer happens.
Generally, for touring car a good starting point is Associated 35WT. If you want to improve grip, try droop first, then springs. Generally, damping is more of a finer-tuning than the rest. If you need cornering grip, try to play with the roll center and camber gain. All of these will give you more dramatic change than the damper (unless you change the oil in a dramatic way, say from 35wt to 70wt), otherwise the effect is smaller.
Not to mention, it's quite a pain to change shock oil in the middle of a race, comparing to changing other settings.
Damping only controls how fast the weight transfer happens.
Generally, for touring car a good starting point is Associated 35WT. If you want to improve grip, try droop first, then springs. Generally, damping is more of a finer-tuning than the rest. If you need cornering grip, try to play with the roll center and camber gain. All of these will give you more dramatic change than the damper (unless you change the oil in a dramatic way, say from 35wt to 70wt), otherwise the effect is smaller.
Not to mention, it's quite a pain to change shock oil in the middle of a race, comparing to changing other settings.
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