Lohan

I currently have an associated r5.1. I am pondering on the following:

1. Associated 5.1 in line conversion;
2. CEFX griffin conversion;
3. On Point c12.1

Seeing as I am on the onpoint thread, I assume that most/any responses will favour the on-point.
However, has anyone here done a comparison, or had any one of the other 2 chassis?
how do the cars feel against one another?

Robert_K

iTrader: (2)

I have been driving for Associated for a couple of years. Together with a mate we drove the L4, R5, R5.1 and the R5.1 Inline. Associated has some nice cars. But the aluminum sometimes is just butter. Together with the other driver we bent like 10 motor mounts of the R5 in two season.
A big disadvantage of the R5.1 (inline) is that the motor pod tweaks like hell. If you just look at it, it's already tweakt. Now we are both driving the on-point and this is awesome. The pod almost doesn't tweak, and if it tweaks it doesn't tweak that much as the associated.

Also different is the battery position. I can position the battery in the On-point more forward and backward, and with the inline version you can online place it in one place.

I've tested the Associated with the on-point back to back, And i'm faster, I think due to the higher corner speed, with the On-Point with 3 tents at the fast lap.

SO for me I'm really happy to drive the on-point right now. For the CEFX I don't know. I haven't used it.

Regards Robert

RoyU

iTrader: (2)

Robert, how do you intially set up the side springs on your On Point?

valk

iTrader: (13)

would it be reasonable to convert a 5.1 to this chassis adding only damper tubes? running the 5.1 onpoint chassis and its fast, but i have had a few aluminum parts tweak. my motor plate is f-d.

without buying a 5.2, what would it cost to get this and build it up from a complete 5.1?

Robert_K

iTrader: (2)

When I build or rebuild the car, I make sure the spring retainers are at the same distance from the carbon holder with a caliper. The I check the side springs if they are (almost) the same length. When there is more then 2mm of a difference i replace them.
Then, I start to turn the side spring screws, until the very first moment they touch. I try to screw both springs equally!
When I'm ready rebuilding the car I use the 'coin' method to tweak it. Normally when the car is straight (no carbon tweak) it takes a 1/8 or 1/4 turn to get the spring tension right with the coin trick.
After that I put the car on 4 scales to confirm it's straight.

I understand you have a complete 5.1 right now? The only thing you need then is a On-Point conversion. I converted a 5.1 from a friend of mine. The Black Tubes are with the On-Point conversion. And it's much stronger (carbon and aluminum) then the Associated. The other racer wrecked a chassis, a pod and 5 motor plates in one season. With the On-Point the only thing that's wrecked are his body's...
Just check it at the website: http://www.onpointracing.com

Here's My On-Point for which I bought all black stuff (left) and the Associated 5.1 converted On-Point (right)


Regards Robert

valk

iTrader: (13)

Onpoint doesnt come with shock/ axle ect though? Id prob convert my wgt and buy hubs as the 5.1 i have now would be an excellent stock car. Looking for a new chassis for 10.5/mod.

Is there a different pn? The ones i see around for $200 say they need tubes ect. Would it basically be the same as a 12r5 then dollar wise?

Lohan

Thanks for such a well informed answer.

I have to say that I've had the misfortune of having a TOP PHOTON at one time, and the aluminium was blamange!

I am a bit of a tweek freak, so that information was particularly useful

Lohan

Thanks for such a well informed answer.

I have to say that I've had the misfortune of having a TOP PHOTON at one time, and the aluminium was blamange!

I am a bit of a tweak freak, so that information was particularly useful

Robert_K

iTrader: (2)

On-Point is one of the Sponsors of the 2013 SnowBirds Nationals. Come and visit the On-Point team voor tips and tricks. Don't forget to buy tickets to win your On-Point kit!

Regards Robert

Robert_K

iTrader: (2)

Maybe I'm mistaken, but if I'm correct the OP12C.1 (PN: OP300B.1) has:
- On-Point Lipo Racing Chassis OP12C.1 (Black anodized)
- Pod plates
- Shock mount
- Stand offs
- Damper tubes,
- Front end bulk heads

So, You still need:
- Rear Axle
- Center Damper
- Linkage
- Side Springs
- Body Posts
- Front suspension (without the Bulkheads)

Regards Robert

Robert_K

iTrader: (2)

So I've also been testing the linkage. And I'm having a hard time getting the Assocaited Linkage 'right'. It always has play, or isn't smooth... So I tried the Kyosho Parts from the Plazma and the quality of the parts is u huge difference. It's so much better. It's smooth and has almost zero play. To bad the Kyo parts are expencive and hard to find

Regards Robert

valk

iTrader: (13)

Ok so it does have tubes. When i looked at the pic on stormer they looked like a front brace or Something lol.
Do i need other hardware for them or just the rod ends? Just rip my 5.1 onpoint appart and swap everything over?

LonnyJ1950

Serpent parts are pretty widely available and are not too expensive. Much better quality and very little play.

Lohan

Out of interest, has anyone ever tried the Hot Bodies cyclone front suspension on the on point car

Robert_K

iTrader: (2)

Yes, the build picture from On-Point doesn't show the tubes.



I did a 5.1 swap, and the Rod-Ends and ball's is a good one. You need 4 pieces for the tubes of both. The set-screws and other tube-parts are in the kit.

Regards Robert