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Old 01-09-2013, 06:32 PM   #121
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How do you like it without the receiver pack? Does everything work out ok?
Everything works perfectly, no issues to speak of.
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:39 AM   #122
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How do you like it without the receiver pack? Does everything work out ok?
It's the best I've ever had! I've driven Mamba, Tekin, LRP and HobbyWing and I'm just fastest with the Orion. Easy to use, nice design and lots of power in both Stock and Modified!

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Old 01-10-2013, 02:04 AM   #123
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How do you like it without the receiver pack? Does everything work out ok?
I had some issues with the combination of Futaba receiver and Sav÷x servos: i need'ed an BEC stabilising capacitor. But with a different receiver or a different servo everything is pretty cool!
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:39 PM   #124
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Default Team Orion Edition

It looks like the Team Orion edition just comes with a separate box that includes the ESC & motor (and a zippered carrying case). It doesn't actually include any option-parts...it is the same stock RA kit you'd buy separately. They just throw the RA box in a larger box, adding another box with the electronics. So now I have an extra RA NIB that I need to hock. Anyone interested?

One more question - I'm about halfway through my assembly, and am stuck on step #8. Those #47 rods don't want to catch the threads and screw into #48 & #46. Any tips? I have sores on my thumbs!

Thx
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:17 AM   #125
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Originally Posted by sundevil67 View Post
It looks like the Team Orion edition just comes with a separate box that includes the ESC & motor (and a zippered carrying case). It doesn't actually include any option-parts...it is the same stock RA kit you'd buy separately. They just throw the RA box in a larger box, adding another box with the electronics. So now I have an extra RA NIB that I need to hock. Anyone interested?

One more question - I'm about halfway through my assembly, and am stuck on step #8. Those #47 rods don't want to catch the threads and screw into #48 & #46. Any tips? I have sores on my thumbs!

Thx
I also purchased the Team Orion Edition. Great value and will be building the kit soon.

Re your problem. Sounds strange, i hope i dont have this problem as well. Do the rods have a reverse thread at one end? Did you put an Allen wrench through the hole in the rod and start turning using the wrench?
You could also pre thread one of the plastic parts using a M3 screw. May not work if one side is reverse thread though.
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:34 PM   #126
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Default Plazma Orion Edition

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I also purchased the Team Orion Edition. Great value and will be building the kit soon.

Re your problem. Sounds strange, i hope i dont have this problem as well. Do the rods have a reverse thread at one end? Did you put an Allen wrench through the hole in the rod and start turning using the wrench?
You could also pre thread one of the plastic parts using a M3 screw. May not work if one side is reverse thread though.
I'm a spaz - I was actually threading it the wrong way. No worries - at step #10 now - slowly, but surely. Disappointing side note though...I went in to the local hobby shop and could not find a set of tires/wheels for 1/12.
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:51 PM   #127
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Just a little heads up for Plasma Ra owners.

Kyosho has released some updated front suspension arms which have small dots on them. These dots indicate what side to insert the suspension balls into the arm. I guess the older arms didn't have this feature and racers were inserting them the wrong way.

So whats the problem?

Well, for some reason, Kyosho decided to mold the suspension arms under one mold. That being said, when you buy a package you'll get two right suspension arms. Ideally, it should be a left and a right. But, Kyosho thought it would be a smart idea for the user to simply flip the suspension arms to make a left and right.

FYI - I live in Japan and I have the most recent Kyosho Plasma Ra kit. This kit comes will a supplementary manual indicating the changes made to the front suspension arms.

Now, the right arm must be flipped (dot facing up). The left has the (dot facing down). Many of you will say, make sure the both dots are facing the same direction. Well, you cant. I've tried this and it results in the suspension geometry (arm sweep) to be messed up. As a result the kingpin will not fit, the kingpin angle is too severe.

So, in order for it to work, you'll have to run the (arm dots) in opposite direction from each other. Well, there's a bigger problem now. This flipping of arms has resulted in a 0.5 mm height difference between the left and right side. Also, the suspension balls are riding at different heights 0.10 mm difference. This is due to the arms being flipped and the position of the suspension ball are resting at different heights. The left suspension ball on the top of the arm is sitting 0.10 mm higher than the right. The right suspension ball on the bottom of the arm is sitting 0.10 mm lower than the left. I hope this make sense to you guys.

Trust me, I tired re-inserting the suspension balls to make them even. It doesn't work.

So, I fixed this problem by shimming the suspension balls using 0.10 mm shims on both sides. Then I put 0.5 mm shims on the right side to raise the arm to match the left arm. Everything is equal and square on.

Just to let you know, I checked everything to see if it was bent. Everything checked out perfectly fine. The chassis is not tweak, all the measurements were done on a pane of glass.

Just to let you know, I've tried 3 different suspension packages and the results are the same.

Last edited by EDWARD2003; 03-14-2013 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:41 PM   #128
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Thanks for the heads up Edward.

Is the part number for these "updated" arms PZ004C?

I bought the Plazma Orion kit so I wonder which version I have because I still haven't opened the kit yet.
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:13 PM   #129
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Default Plazma RA Front Arms

Thanks for the post...this was driving me crazy. I'd installed them backwards and couldn't figure this out for a while. I did eventually get it 'right', and need to get to some carpet for more rigorous setup/testing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Just a little heads up for Plasma Ra owners.

Kyosho has released some updated front suspension arms which have small dots on them. These dots indicate what side to insert the suspension balls into the arm. I guess the older arms didn't have this feature and racers were inserting them the wrong way.

So whats the problem?

Well, for some reason, Kyosho decided to mold the suspension arms under one mold. That being said, when you buy a package you'll get two right suspension arms. Ideally, it should be a left and a right. But, Kyosho thought it would be a smart idea for the user to simply flip the suspension arms to make a left and right.

FYI - I live in Japan and I have the most recent Kyosho Plasma Ra kit. This kit comes will a supplementary manual indicating the changes made to the front suspension arms.

Now, the right arm must be flipped (dot facing up). The left has the (dot facing down). Many of you will say, make sure the both dots are facing the same direction. Well, you cant. I've tried this and it results in the suspension geometry (arm sweep) to be messed up. As a result the kingpin will not fit, the kingpin angle is too severe.

So, in order for it to work, you'll have to run the (arm dots) in opposite direction from each other. Well, there's a bigger problem now. This flipping of arms has resulted in a 0.5 mm height difference between the left and right side. Also, the suspension balls are riding at different heights 0.10 mm difference. This is due to the arms being flipped and the position of the suspension ball are resting at different heights. The left suspension ball on the top of the arm is sitting 0.10 mm higher than the right. The right suspension ball on the bottom of the arm is sitting 0.10 mm lower than the left. I hope this make sense to you guys.

Trust me, I tired re-inserting the suspension balls to make them even. It doesn't work.

So, I fixed this problem by shimming the suspension balls using 0.10 mm shims on both sides. Then I put 0.5 mm shims on the right side to raise the arm to match the left arm. Everything is equal and square on.

Just to let you know, I checked everything to see if it was bent. Everything checked out perfectly fine. The chassis is not tweak, all the measurements were done on a pane of glass.

Just to let you know, I've tried 3 different suspension packages and the results are the same.
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Old 04-07-2013, 05:19 PM   #130
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Just a little heads up for Plasma Ra owners.

Kyosho has released some updated front suspension arms which have small dots on them. These dots indicate what side to insert the suspension balls into the arm. I guess the older arms didn't have this feature and racers were inserting them the wrong way.
Is this the dot you are referring to Edward? There is also a dot on the upper arm pivot ball cup.
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:57 PM   #131
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Default The DOT!

Yes, that is the dot I speak of. You'll see this dot on several parts requiring pivot balls. i.e center shock, side-links, upper suspension link, and lower suspension arms.

Cheers.

Thanks for the snap shot of the lower arm.

OH!!!! I forgot to mention, when you tighten down the screw which holds the axle spindle in place it puts side pressure on the plastic spindle block. Therefore, deforms the plastic a little and places side pressure on the kingpin, binding will ensue. What I did to fix this was one of two things, first get a washer (kyosho kingpin washer works fine) place it between the screw and plastic block. This will help spread the weight out a little. Next, when you've tightened the axle down, you want to ream out the kingpin hole. This will hopefully eliminate any binding problems in your suspension arms.

Another helpful tip - Make sure your spindle blocks slide up and down the kin pin. If there is any binding, I mean any, the car will handle poorly. Same goes for the upper suspension links.

Also, make sure your side links are not binding either, they should move freely, no binding whatsoever. Use a body reamer, or a small hobby style cylindrical file to open the hole a little.
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Old 04-08-2013, 04:51 AM   #132
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Yes, that is the dot I speak of. You'll see this dot on several parts requiring pivot balls. i.e center shock, side-links, upper suspension link, and lower suspension arms.

Cheers.

Thanks for the snap shot of the lower arm.

OH!!!! I forgot to mention, when you tighten down the screw which holds the axle spindle in place it puts side pressure on the plastic spindle block. Therefore, deforms the plastic a little and places side pressure on the kingpin, binding will ensue. What I did to fix this was one of two things, first get a washer (kyosho kingpin washer works fine) place it between the screw and plastic block. This will help spread the weight out a little. Next, when you've tightened the axle down, you want to ream out the kingpin hole. This will hopefully eliminate any binding problems in your suspension arms.

Another helpful tip - Make sure your spindle blocks slide up and down the kin pin. If there is any binding, I mean any, the car will handle poorly. Same goes for the upper suspension links.

Also, make sure your side links are not binding either, they should move freely, no binding whatsoever. Use a body reamer, or a small hobby style cylindrical file to open the hole a little.
Thanks for the info. My blocks were very tight on the kingpin so I used a Hudy reamer to make the hole bigger. Smooth like butter now.

Does anyone know if CRC rear ride height set fits the Plazma?
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Old 04-08-2013, 10:46 PM   #133
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I don't think its possible to mount CRC's new rear pod system onto the Plasma Ra. People here in Japan are sticking with the stock rear bulkhead.

Cheers.
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Old 04-09-2013, 12:37 AM   #134
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I don't think its possible to mount CRC's new rear pod system onto the Plasma Ra. People here in Japan are sticking with the stock rear bulkhead.

Cheers.
Sorry, I meant the plastic axle height inserts, not the whole pod assembly.
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:40 PM   #135
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Default Axle Height Inserts

Not to sure about different axle height inserts. What's wrong with the Kyosho axle height inserts? You might want to pick up an extra set of axle height adjusters, I've encountered issues with bearings prematurely failing and melting the inserts. They were still usable for the rest of the day, however its always good to pick up an extra set. Keep them parts fresh. If you have the chance, ask some other guys at your track if you test out different manufactures inserts. AE and Yokomo are pretty much the same, CRC might work too, just ask around.

Just picked up Kyosho's titanium rear axle. First impression, nice piece of machining, but a little bit on the heavy side. However, the weight is good thing to have in the rear as this will aid in rear end traction. The reason why I switched from the carbon to titanium was for durability issues. Over time, the the bearings started to wear into the carbon axle and it was a good reason to spend a little dough on my Plasma Ra. However, I justified the purchase because this wearing might create unwanted chassis tweak in the rear end. Little things like I mentioned above tend to have substantial impacts on the cars ability to handle well.

Also, I switched my servo out for a spectrum helicopter tail rotor servo. One of the guys on the 1/12 forum swears by them, I took his word on it and bought one (Cheap and Fast). Haven't tested it out yet, but I will get back to you on how it performs.
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