6LikesT.O.P. Racing Rebel 10 World GT
08-29-2011, 02:20 PM
#32
Tech Adept
08-29-2011, 09:42 PM
#33
09-11-2011, 05:54 PM
#35
I just got mine and looking forward to putting it together!!!
09-11-2011, 06:48 PM
#36
Tech Adept
Is it true that the J-Spec version is complete? I understand it has a lower polar bear movement.
09-12-2011, 07:43 AM
#38
J-Spec??? not sure what you mean.. If you mean the instructions are all in Japanese, and step 13 is on page one.. then yes you are correct. hahahah 
There is some english, but not a whole lot.. God bless pictures!
So far its been fun putting it together!!! The car looks really good!
There is some english, but not a whole lot.. God bless pictures!
So far its been fun putting it together!!! The car looks really good!
09-13-2011, 11:18 PM
#39
Hey odpurple, just wanted to tell you I got the wire crimper tool for shortening the servo and other misc wires. I was so proud of myself I wanted to go show someone/anyone my handy work. After I was done crimping they all just slid into place and snapped right in. Nothing perfect like your work but at least I dont have a rats nest anymore. lol
09-25-2011, 04:54 PM
#40
A question for you guys ...
I'm running 2.17 CRC fronts and it seems that with that tire size I need to use about 4mm of ride height spacers .. but that causes a couple of problems, one is that if the servo is angled then the turnbuckled will hit the castor blocks. What are you guys doing in this situation?
Secondly, the sliver 3mm flathead screws that screw into the bottom of the arm assembly are too short, using normal 3mm screws won't work because the silver ones actually have a smaller head on them, that sets them into the graphite piece so they sit flush against the chassis. Does TOP have longer versions of these screws (10mm, 12mm)?
Also had a thought .. on the kingpin, the stack goes like
0.5mm shim
2.0mm shim
Top Arm
1.0 mm shim
3.0mm shim
Steering Knuckle
Bottom Arm
Can I move the Steering Knuckle up without affecting any settings? Just moving the shims around a bit. This would help with ride height, but does it change roll center or anything else?
0.5mm shim
2.0mm shim
Top Arm
2.0mm shim
Steering Knuckle
2.0mm shim
Bottom Arm
Thoughts?
I'm running 2.17 CRC fronts and it seems that with that tire size I need to use about 4mm of ride height spacers .. but that causes a couple of problems, one is that if the servo is angled then the turnbuckled will hit the castor blocks. What are you guys doing in this situation?
Secondly, the sliver 3mm flathead screws that screw into the bottom of the arm assembly are too short, using normal 3mm screws won't work because the silver ones actually have a smaller head on them, that sets them into the graphite piece so they sit flush against the chassis. Does TOP have longer versions of these screws (10mm, 12mm)?
Also had a thought .. on the kingpin, the stack goes like
0.5mm shim
2.0mm shim
Top Arm
1.0 mm shim
3.0mm shim
Steering Knuckle
Bottom Arm
Can I move the Steering Knuckle up without affecting any settings? Just moving the shims around a bit. This would help with ride height, but does it change roll center or anything else?
0.5mm shim
2.0mm shim
Top Arm
2.0mm shim
Steering Knuckle
2.0mm shim
Bottom Arm
Thoughts?
09-27-2011, 09:08 PM
#41
A question for you guys ...
I'm running 2.17 CRC fronts and it seems that with that tire size I need to use about 4mm of ride height spacers .. but that causes a couple of problems, one is that if the servo is angled then the turnbuckled will hit the castor blocks. What are you guys doing in this situation?
Secondly, the sliver 3mm flathead screws that screw into the bottom of the arm assembly are too short, using normal 3mm screws won't work because the silver ones actually have a smaller head on them, that sets them into the graphite piece so they sit flush against the chassis. Does TOP have longer versions of these screws (10mm, 12mm)?
Also had a thought .. on the kingpin, the stack goes like
0.5mm shim
2.0mm shim
Top Arm
1.0 mm shim
3.0mm shim
Steering Knuckle
Bottom Arm
Can I move the Steering Knuckle up without affecting any settings? Just moving the shims around a bit. This would help with ride height, but does it change roll center or anything else?
0.5mm shim
2.0mm shim
Top Arm
2.0mm shim
Steering Knuckle
2.0mm shim
Bottom Arm
Thoughts?
I'm running 2.17 CRC fronts and it seems that with that tire size I need to use about 4mm of ride height spacers .. but that causes a couple of problems, one is that if the servo is angled then the turnbuckled will hit the castor blocks. What are you guys doing in this situation?
Secondly, the sliver 3mm flathead screws that screw into the bottom of the arm assembly are too short, using normal 3mm screws won't work because the silver ones actually have a smaller head on them, that sets them into the graphite piece so they sit flush against the chassis. Does TOP have longer versions of these screws (10mm, 12mm)?
Also had a thought .. on the kingpin, the stack goes like
0.5mm shim
2.0mm shim
Top Arm
1.0 mm shim
3.0mm shim
Steering Knuckle
Bottom Arm
Can I move the Steering Knuckle up without affecting any settings? Just moving the shims around a bit. This would help with ride height, but does it change roll center or anything else?
0.5mm shim
2.0mm shim
Top Arm
2.0mm shim
Steering Knuckle
2.0mm shim
Bottom Arm
Thoughts?
I just got my car together and ran a couple test laps tonight. I was in a hurry and didnt even get to adjust ride height. I have to say it felt pretty good. i dont have a lot of experience with pan cars but Im really looking forward to running it.
10-03-2011, 07:15 AM
#42
I got a chance to Run some laps at TZ yesterday. I was running the box stock set up, and it worked good! Super consistant and easy to drive. I Cant wait to see what EJ can do with it at IIC!
Good luck to all the TOP guys at IIC!
Good luck to all the TOP guys at IIC!
10-31-2011, 11:07 AM
#43
Pics
Ran the car for the first time yesterday. Car was perfect!! Did not have to make any adjustments!! Car had great corner speed and was supper easy to drive. Was on TQ pace in last qualifier only to hit a dot and got the car upside down. When it finally stopped sliding and turn marshal got me back rolling, I had lost my TQ pace. Qualified second and finished second due to battery issue. (Low voltage. New batteries ordered) Ran the car with the battery down the middle (aka CRC) and right up against the back of the steering servo placing more weight forward. To set the car up this way, you need to order two parts, two rear cross brace stand offs and two washers. Maybe OD can post the part numbers.
This is a very nice car!!!!!
This is a very nice car!!!!!
10-31-2011, 11:45 AM
#44
I can try and post some pics of mine tonight. I just switched my battery layout (again) and cant wait to get it on the track.
So far I love the car. LOTS of corner speed!!!
FYI get aluminum bumper screws!! they are a must IMO. they brake right off if you hit something and saves the bumper!
So far I love the car. LOTS of corner speed!!!
FYI get aluminum bumper screws!! they are a must IMO. they brake right off if you hit something and saves the bumper!
10-31-2011, 02:36 PM
#45
Any truth to the rumor that TOP is working on a new bumper design?
From personal experience it is pretty fragile as far as bumpers go .. working on number 3 at the moment at a price of around $20 each. If I remember correcly, the guys at IIC were going through them at a pretty good pace. I've had mine actually push into the carbon fiber Front Arm Mounts and split those. Not good.
Looking into a Kydex Bumper ..
From personal experience it is pretty fragile as far as bumpers go .. working on number 3 at the moment at a price of around $20 each. If I remember correcly, the guys at IIC were going through them at a pretty good pace. I've had mine actually push into the carbon fiber Front Arm Mounts and split those. Not good.
Looking into a Kydex Bumper ..