road rails, love em or hate em??
#16
We spent well over $1500.00 in the rails. I would not recommend them to anyone. The company is very good to work with. They were very nice to deal with, however the system could not do the things they said. The track moved everytime someone tapped it. We spent more time marshalling the track, than marshalling cars.
#17
The roadrails are ok, but definitely not the best. I have noticed that there is a lot more chunking using roadrails then there is with other systems. Also, the track seemed to move a lot, and the plastic nuts broke a lot. This was fixed with metal pieces, and the bottom of the cones and strips were lined with some sand-paper-like material. The roadrails are ok when used in conjunction with other materials to make sure that the cars dont go over into the strait.
#18
Does anyone know where to get the type of track I have seen used at the Hitec race ? I have seen pics of it in the mags and it has Hobby People logos on it;of course I can't find it on the website. Any ideas? It seems ike it would be good.
#19
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
road domes are good for mini"T" ramps and that's about it. use 3" pipe and 3/16" polyethelene plastic for flappers. takes about 30 minutes to set up once you got a layout.
http://www.rcmotorsportsracing.com/
http://www.rcmotorsportsracing.com/
#20
promatchrcr... I called Hobby People one time and asked them about the system. They told me that it was too costly to produce and sell. They never told me a price. We ended up with the Road Rails. Not the best choice we ever made.
I actually have had the best luck with 2x4 laid down on the 4" side. I cut a 45 degree angle on the two sides with about a 1/2" flat spot on the top. For the ends I used a grinder to shape it, and flatten it out. We didn't cut the staightaway boards. This worked the best. Hardly broke anything.
I actually have had the best luck with 2x4 laid down on the 4" side. I cut a 45 degree angle on the two sides with about a 1/2" flat spot on the top. For the ends I used a grinder to shape it, and flatten it out. We didn't cut the staightaway boards. This worked the best. Hardly broke anything.
#21
Nash- Is that pic. of a new track up our way? Hope that it is , so it can replace the old track. If so can you give some info.? Thanks
#22
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
The hobby people track system is horrible. There's Hobby people races all over here in southern california and the only one I'll go to is the Hitec Race because it's a "big" race. The barrier will move feet when it gets hit. And because it's all connected, if you hit it in one spot, the whole layout moves. We call it the living layout, or the ameoba track. You'll run five laps into a race and then suddenly hit a wall that litterally wasn't there last lap!
#23
I agree. The track constantly moves and worse it does during a race when marshalls don't have time to move it back. The line changes and the track is different as laps progress. It really sucks when you are trying to make up places because the guys in front get a normal track, but as the lap progresses the track changes for the guys in back. I was TQ second at the Hitec race in stock sedan in the A-Main and got bumped back, as I tried to regain position, the track was different for me than the guys that got through cleanly. They give, but that means more like movement.
#24
Tech Adept
Way too many long straights in the hobby chamber layout.
#25
Ok,cool, thanks guys....that answers my question.
#26
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
We've been using road rails dor the last 9months. At first it was functioning well until in the long run it deteriorates on an outdoor track. We run gp and ep sad to say gp can wreck this thing instantly. It can works well on indoors running ep cars just as fine but the chunking can be solved by using silicone sealant on the sharp edges.
#27
Hi, we have been using the road rail system for nearly a year now. at first the track moved alot so we designed the tracks on a computer and made the track so it was all joined together in triangles etc much much better and we have no problems with the track moving any more.
The problem with cars jumping over onto the straight is easilt solved...
You turn a peice of road rail upside down and bolt it to a normal peice. We use this method on the main straight and any other corners were it looks like there could be a nasty accident with a car crossing the track. we use metal wing nuts as the plastic things are crap and just snap all the time. as for chunking dont hit the track, imagine its pipe that you WILL get stuck on if you hit it.
i dont think this system is good for the money, i would have expected alot more but once you modify little bits it is good.
The problem with cars jumping over onto the straight is easilt solved...
You turn a peice of road rail upside down and bolt it to a normal peice. We use this method on the main straight and any other corners were it looks like there could be a nasty accident with a car crossing the track. we use metal wing nuts as the plastic things are crap and just snap all the time. as for chunking dont hit the track, imagine its pipe that you WILL get stuck on if you hit it.
i dont think this system is good for the money, i would have expected alot more but once you modify little bits it is good.
#28
In 4 months of use in a club setting with 90+ % of the drivers being newbies, we have yet to have any major damage to a car. The Road Rails have been fantastic at our outdoor, asphalt parking lot track.
I'll agree that it is not perfect but it suits our needs perfectly. Remember also that what is good for a track owner is not necessarily the perfect situation for ALL drivers.
1. not a barrier -- True...we use a 2 inch PVC outer barrier.
2. getting airborne -- True, but if you talk with the company, you'll find they suggest using another Road Rail mounted on top of the primary one. You simply mount it upside down . This is great for keeping cars on the track in potential crash areas.
3. If you need to be portable you can't beat them. Wait till you have to transport , set up and tear down a PVC , wood or other type of track. Especially if more than once a month like we do.
4. Road Rails will out last most other types of track material. That means a good investment.
5. Attaching hardware has been updated and , if anything, it's too strong !! Holds very well. Still a lot quicker than nuts and bolts.
Road Rails are not perfect but they are extremely useful and functional. From an owners perspective I've loved having them. From SOME drivers perspective....nothing will ever be good enough and there will always be something they dislike.
Lastly, I will agree that for Nitro or Mod motors, Road Rails may cause you a bit more grief. Speed can be dangerous....period. If precautions aren't taken...I wouldn't race Nitro or Mod on a Road Rails track either.
Evaluate YOUR requirements first !! Don't listen to a few drivers who have no money and or very little time invested in your decision. You'll drive yourself crazy and in the end....you still won't satisfy everbody all the time.
Hope the comments help. Been there.....Done that !! BTW, do yourself a favor and call some of the other tracks that are using them. You'll get some good info.
I'll agree that it is not perfect but it suits our needs perfectly. Remember also that what is good for a track owner is not necessarily the perfect situation for ALL drivers.
1. not a barrier -- True...we use a 2 inch PVC outer barrier.
2. getting airborne -- True, but if you talk with the company, you'll find they suggest using another Road Rail mounted on top of the primary one. You simply mount it upside down . This is great for keeping cars on the track in potential crash areas.
3. If you need to be portable you can't beat them. Wait till you have to transport , set up and tear down a PVC , wood or other type of track. Especially if more than once a month like we do.
4. Road Rails will out last most other types of track material. That means a good investment.
5. Attaching hardware has been updated and , if anything, it's too strong !! Holds very well. Still a lot quicker than nuts and bolts.
Road Rails are not perfect but they are extremely useful and functional. From an owners perspective I've loved having them. From SOME drivers perspective....nothing will ever be good enough and there will always be something they dislike.
Lastly, I will agree that for Nitro or Mod motors, Road Rails may cause you a bit more grief. Speed can be dangerous....period. If precautions aren't taken...I wouldn't race Nitro or Mod on a Road Rails track either.
Evaluate YOUR requirements first !! Don't listen to a few drivers who have no money and or very little time invested in your decision. You'll drive yourself crazy and in the end....you still won't satisfy everbody all the time.
Hope the comments help. Been there.....Done that !! BTW, do yourself a favor and call some of the other tracks that are using them. You'll get some good info.
#29
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by imprsme
Nash- Is that pic. of a new track up our way? Hope that it is , so it can replace the old track. If so can you give some info.? Thanks
Nash- Is that pic. of a new track up our way? Hope that it is , so it can replace the old track. If so can you give some info.? Thanks
#30
Our local track (www.hobbystation.com.au) uses them and I love them. No breakages or chunking since they were installed whereas I broke and bent a few things on the boards that were previously installed.
We ran a 4 hour endurance race last night with 8 teams and not once did a car fly into another car that I saw. Even if it did I have broken enough things from being punted into the boards by others to not be too fazed.
All in all a big thumbs up from me and most of the drivers at the track that I know!!
We ran a 4 hour endurance race last night with 8 teams and not once did a car fly into another car that I saw. Even if it did I have broken enough things from being punted into the boards by others to not be too fazed.
All in all a big thumbs up from me and most of the drivers at the track that I know!!