xenite400bhp

Thanks for the great update wollow86.

Btw, i heard that the standard servo saver is crap in terms of positioning .. i guess it has the same issues with my current car.

So do you think this servo saver will solve the problem? its from the same company.

http://www.myrcstation.com/webshaper...oductItem=2908

FauxMako

That's not a servo saver, that's a solid aluminum arm. You'll break something else -- arm, ball cup, servo, etc.

Get a Kimbrough or Tamiya servo saver with the appropriate back for your servo (# of teeth varies by servo brand).

Edit: Kimbrough #201 is the one I use.

Bappe

im using a tamiya servo saver, does the job perfect!

have been testing some more, and havent got it right yet, still to loose in the rear, but still quite easy to drive, and the laptimes is right there, but not the feeling. been testing with tamiya mini springs and they are way better (softer) than the sakura spring kit

have ordered trf shocks and +4 towers now, i think that will make the car handle better

i have also changed all plastic parts in the suspension apart from the arms to xray parts, way more reliable (have broken a spindle, an arm and a c hub in 60packs, thats enough to concern me about the quality in the plastics)
suspension balls to tamiya, same with the ball ends
xray bumper in the front, also have xray nt1 gears on the way for the rear diff

my car is now more of a tamasakuray than a sakura

i like the car, its so forgiving in its handling, even if the rear end is a bit loose its still very easy to drive.

Operator27

Has anyone found a good setup for med traction asphalt, clean surface, kind of bumpy and very hot (track temp 105F to 110F) no traction compound.

I have a spool and I can do gear diff front and rear. the thing is the spool has too much understeer and the dual gear diff has too much oversteer for my liking

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

Bappe - What oil do you have in the diff? I've found the kit oil to heavy, at the moment I'm using 650cst (AE 50w). With 3* rear toe there's plenty of rear grip unless I overdrive it. I'm going to try 60wt with the 3*, and 40wt with 2* on the weekend. The tamiya springs are softer, but maybe to soft. I got better performance from the 6.5 springs then the tamiya white/blue dot. They are only slightly harder.

Operator27 - I'll post up my setup for you if you like, I can do it when I get home. My outdoor track is bumpy med grip. Large and high speed. I'm using a spool in the front.

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

Car info: Boosted, Tekin RS, Epic Duo3 17.5, Gens ACE 5000 40C, Mazdaspeed6 body.

Front

Tyre: Sorex 36R
Insert: Med C
Shock Oil: 40wt
Piston Holes: 3
Rebound: 0
Spring: 3Racing 6.0
Tower hole: 3
Roll Bar: 1.2
Ride height 6mm
Link length: Max
Camber: -2
Caster: 4
Toe: +0.5
Droop: 3 (Gauge reading)
Roll centre: 1mm shim under upper/inner link
Blocks: FF0, FR0
Diff: Spool

Rear

Tyre: Sorex 36R
Insert: Med C
Shock Oil: 40wt
Piston Holes: 3
Rebound: 0
Spring: 3Racing 6.5
Tower hole: 4
Roll Bar: 1.4
Ride height 6mm
Link length: Max
Camber: -2
Toe: -3
Droop: 3 (Gauge reading)
Roll centre: no shim under upper/inner link
Blocks: RF0, RR3
Diff: 50wt AE, 650cst

Running about 20g of added weight behind the battery stops. 10g front 10g rear. With that the car weighs 1384g.

Car felt good even though the track was dirty. A fresh set of rubber, and a clean track would have produced a new PB lap time I'm sure. With a cleaner track I might have gotten away with the RR2 block, was just a little to free for my liking, but the track was not at its best. It felt faster over a lap with that, but couldn't keep it clean enough to count. I'd still like to try RR2 and 40wt oil in the diff.

Be careful on the bumps with this setup. Our track has a very bumpy section right on the racing line for a on power corner, and sometimes the car got a bit unstable over that. With my setup on the previous page (also on petitrc) it was better more stable, but less on power steering.

xenite400bhp - I'll take some pics of the car for you tonight.

orcadigital

iTrader: (61)

I am running a Zero, and have not had the same plastics issues that seem to be plaguing everyone. I have had the Xray hard bumper on since day one, but I have yet to break front anything (and trust me, i hit plenty of stuff). I have definitely developed some slop, especially in the c-hubs around the hinge pins, and am close to replacing the front plastics for that reason, but as I said, breakage does not seem to be an issue for me. I have been running the car since December, 1 to 2 races a week, and an addition 1 to 3 days of practice per week. I have broken 1 rear arm and a rear upright, but in both cases it was my own fault and a hard hit from an odd angle.

What is the reason for the Tamiya ball ends? Just wanting a different color? I converted all of mine to TC6 ball ends with the open rod ends as I prefer being able to unscrew the ball from the bulkhead over popping the ends off and causing extra wear.

xenite400bhp

Omg..lol! my bad.. i thought it was the servo arm that cause the problem. thanks for the correction bro. -noob.

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

Just ran the setting above at a large race meet on the weekend. Car was fantastic, driver was exactly average.

Had no luck in qualifying, only got one clean fast run in. Only just scraped into the C final, but went on to finish 2nd after qualifying 7th of 8 cars. Had a fantastic battle with the leader, I was the faster car of the 2. But, a mistake by me cost about 15seconds with only 1 minute left in the final.

That run got me a new PB of 18.205, 3 tenths quicker then my previous best, and only 2 tenths off the slowest guys in the A main.


Me hunting down the leader in the final

martynp

Hi all I am just waiting on the delivery of my X1 any advice on anything needed to do in the build to make the car perform better thanks in advance

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

Mods: Xray T3 Bumper, kimbrough servo saver. I've also changed the motor mount root over to the zero root. That gives a little more room for pinions.

Tuning parts: springs, roll bars, toe blocks.

Tips: make sure the scews fastening the upper links to the bulkhead covers are really tight. Otherwise they come free. Ignore the kit oils. 2000 is a bit heavy for the diff unless it's a high grip track. I'm using 50wt. The diff will also need a few packs through the car to free up properly. Follow the 3racing diff building guide, it's awesome. Kit shock oil is useless because it doesn't tell you what it is. Just use whatever oil range normally works for your track.

Spares: I have the normal spares list of plastic parts, plus pulleys and other diff plastics because our outdoor track is prone to small rocks even after cleaning it. I haven't actually needed any of them yet, except I have broken a solid axel outer joint. And that's it. I've had some large crashes with the car too, so I'm impressed with its duribility.

Hope that helps. Enjoy your XI

martynp

Thanks for the advice willow I have a spare zero mount and spring and roll bars as I am upgrading from a Zero. I was planning on a Tamiya hi torq servo saver as I have run these for years but I do have a kimbrough in my pit box as well. Is that 50 wt shock oil you are using in the diff?

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

Yep, 50wt AE shock oil. I'm going to try 40wt too to see if I can get away with 2deg rear toe. It's just a touch free with 2 on power right now, but it's good neutral and off power.

The tamiya saver might be better, I had to trim the kimbrough to allow full steering travel.

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

Stumbled across these on the 3Racing site today.

New suspension blocks, both FR 0 and RF 0 : SAK-X22/PK, SAK-X23/PK



And a new motor mount : SAK-X24/PK



Really looking forward to these parts, the suspension blocks should allow a bit more flex over the whole chassis. I've seen Jiles mention tamiya team drivers split the solid suspension blocks the same way on the 417X, for this reason. The new motor mount will allow a much larger range of pinion/spur combo's. It also looks like you can now remove the spur gear from the car without undoing the main screws. Should make the process simpler and less likely to drop those pesky shims...

barts71m

iTrader: (34)

Does anyone know the smallest spur/biggest pinion you can run??? About to start running my car in 21.5 blinky.

Also Willow your setup is very different. Ride Height and droop are very strange. Also have been running alot harder in shock oil/diff oil 450 muchmore, and 1000wt diff oil. I would give 6/5 droop a go and 5/5.5 ride height. Try some Muchmore 32s car is weapon on them. Our track is not to different from Maitland in terms of grip levels. Springs I cant help with running +4 towers with TRFs. Couldnt make the car nice with the original gear.

Should mention that was with 17.5 boosted.