LloydLoar

iTrader: (20)

Yeah I was very surprised that at the local track (medium-ish traction right now) that the stiffer springs didn't make the car diff out. They definitely helped with steering though, as the inline setup definitely seems to need more steering due to weight transfer, etc (for my driving style).

I used olive center and black sides before, which made the car very very easy to drive and still quite fast, but I kind of like the increased edge and steering that stiffening the rear gives me. Haha, just so happened that the final combo I ended up trying was the stiffest possible.

avs

iTrader: (2)

Hi Josh,
I got all the bits that were ordered and can't wait to try it out. I had a few questions about the Griffin12 build that may be of general interest so i am asking here. (some things were answered and others i sorted out)

1) The forward shock graphite piece has a 2nd hole is this for a long shock option? or an antenna mast support?

2) The hardware kit is supplied with 4-40 CS screws, most are 1/4" length and just 4 are 3/8" length. Are the 3/8" just for the lower pod plate?

3) overall, there is an obvious attention to weight control, except the diff rings. just curious, do you elect to use the full ring for a performance reason?

Sorry for the long (shortened) saga,

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

Obviously I'm not Josh but I have a couple suggestions.

I use 1mm spacers under the standoffs for the front shock mount. Works perfect.

The only screws I use loctite on are the lower pod plate screws. I use just the tiniest dab of blue glue stick style loctite. I'm also using steel screws there so I can get them tight and not have to worry about stripping them.

avs

iTrader: (2)

thanks, i will keep the loctite use to a minimum. (i had resorted to steel as well on all lower locations)

As you indicated, with a 1mm shim on the fwd shock support i can get a battery in with minimal urging. But this brings up another question on the battery posts.
With posts forward (battery cg is back) is this preferred? (it looks possible with a little grinding on the shock support)
With posts back, then (oops, wasn't thinking straight, removing the shock provides plenty of clearance to get the plug in)

with the rear posts, is there a possibility of shorting thru the graphite cross brace? both pins can contact the brace. maybe this is why Mike Ivy's pix show orings on the pins? the oring's thickness might be just enough to provide clearance.

Thanks for any insights.

LloydLoar

iTrader: (20)

The CEFX WGT chassis kit does not come with a rear axle, correct?

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

Is the new Photon EX any improvement over Joshs design? Has anyone built an Evolution from the EX? Can it be done?

bmcallister

iTrader: (23)

My cefx for sale
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...uring-car.html

Highside20

iTrader: (2)

What CEFX Z4 tire compound should I run outdoor on asphalt? I will be running at the Leisure Hours Raceway in Joliet. Double pink all the way around?

Thanks!

oldrcr

iTrader: (46)

Hi,
Wondering if someone could measure the distance between the center of the bulkheads, side to side, for me? Center to center of the top deck screws, or bottom side chassis screws that hold the bulkheads on, is what I am after, as well as the thickness of the bulkheads.

Much appreciated, thanks.

avs

iTrader: (2)

To get started with the Griffin10 with L4 front end, do you suggest running a wide or narrow track, and long or short wheelbase? from the pictures i am guessing it is wide track and short wheelbase?

avs

iTrader: (2)

I finally got to run my Griffin10 this past weekend, wow. in the past with WGT cars i have been looking for more agility and more steering. now i have the opposite quest, how to calm things down a little.

my starting setup was a conglomeration of setup notes on this thread and past experience. (if anyone has a complete starting setup to share, it would be most appreciated!)

my starting point was:

4mm ride height front/rear
minimum (nill) droop in front, 1.mm droop and 0.0mm sag in rear
hotbodies center shock 50wt, gold AE spring
15K diff lube in tubes and front axles
blue side springs
brass weights in rear pocket, battery in 'stock' location
servo in forward holes, puts steering links forward and near paralel to upper arm

R5 frontend, wide track and long wheelbase
.020 front springs
griffin 0 caster block, upper hinge pin
1.0 toe, 0.5 camber thin clip forward
balius inline axles, shimmed to R5 steering block geometry

tires were 50/52mm 'vintage' jaco.

it only took a few laps to realize i had a surplus of agility and steering. also, there was a tendency to jack the rear and later jack the front on turn in.

so far, to tone things down:
add 2mm on each bulkhead to get the front trackwidth to 196mm (from 192mm to reduce the agressive steering)
10k lube to soften the rear jacking
black side springs.
0.0 toe

overall, it is great to have a WGT chassis that you don't have to wait for in corners. in the past i did not want to try to race a 1/12 right after a wgt run back to back.

for the next step i would like to get the car to turn in just as hard but without lifting the inside tire. my next setup changes will be .018 front springs and try olive/silver side springs.

does anyone have similiar experience and advice for next steps?

wingracer

iTrader: (24)

A few possibilities to tame it down some more:

1. Softer shock oil, maybe 30-35. 50 is really high.

2. Move weight forward, either battery or weights or both.

3. Add a front brace.

4. Go to trailing steering blocks.

5. Super glue front sidewalls.

avs

iTrader: (2)

thanks, will give those a try.

Jamison R

iTrader: (66)

I have a CEFX 12th scale for sale. Pm me for details.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...2th-scale.html

avs

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone compared the Balius and Xanthos arms for the inline axles?