3 Racing F109 vs F104
07-22-2011, 04:37 AM
#1
3 Racing F109 vs F104
Ok, so I want to purchase a F1 just for fun, there's no local class for f1 here (yet).
Seeing as its not for racing, specs are a little loose, I have a spare HW 13T 3000kv 35a system for my mini that i was planning on throwing in the F1, with my GTB3 radio i use for my basher stuff. I'd need a servo, and obviously the kit.
Now I'd like to keep the price down, so the F109 looks to be the ticket. However... I can get the f104 for around $150... Which i like the looks of better. Running surface would mainly be parking lot style surface, lots of small rocks and the like that tend to kill cars, I've found running hardened pinions with the skinny robinson spurs cope very well with it though, and i havent broken one of those yet (touch wood). Might also get a run on low grip carpet (its actually very run down astro turf).
To be fair to the f109, lets say the budget is $150. So its a bog stock f104, vs f109 with all the hop ups needed, under the remaining $50.
Before i get the standard "check what your local racers run" and "see which one has more parts support from your lhs", the closest club with a class is 2hrs drive away, and the rules are any 2wd f1 chassis, 540/27t/17.5 brushless/Sport tuned (the hw might actually be ok here because it was chosen for our local mini class because it was so close to the sport tuned in performance) over 1000g and f1 specific tyres. And the LHS sells the HPI Formula Ten. Which as I understand it has to have a fair bit spent in hop ups before its equivalent to the 104. So i've ruled it out as over budget, and its ugly in stock form.
Last point is batteries. I dont want to have to buy one specific for the car. I mainly use Gens Ace 5000mah 40c 2s, but also have Gens Ace 4000mah 25c 2s Stick Pack, 5000 40c turnigy 2s and a 4000 40c turnigy 2s. Last resort i have a few 3300ish nimh stickpacks.
So, 3 Racing F109, or Tamiya F104?
Seeing as its not for racing, specs are a little loose, I have a spare HW 13T 3000kv 35a system for my mini that i was planning on throwing in the F1, with my GTB3 radio i use for my basher stuff. I'd need a servo, and obviously the kit.
Now I'd like to keep the price down, so the F109 looks to be the ticket. However... I can get the f104 for around $150... Which i like the looks of better. Running surface would mainly be parking lot style surface, lots of small rocks and the like that tend to kill cars, I've found running hardened pinions with the skinny robinson spurs cope very well with it though, and i havent broken one of those yet (touch wood). Might also get a run on low grip carpet (its actually very run down astro turf).
To be fair to the f109, lets say the budget is $150. So its a bog stock f104, vs f109 with all the hop ups needed, under the remaining $50.
Before i get the standard "check what your local racers run" and "see which one has more parts support from your lhs", the closest club with a class is 2hrs drive away, and the rules are any 2wd f1 chassis, 540/27t/17.5 brushless/Sport tuned (the hw might actually be ok here because it was chosen for our local mini class because it was so close to the sport tuned in performance) over 1000g and f1 specific tyres. And the LHS sells the HPI Formula Ten. Which as I understand it has to have a fair bit spent in hop ups before its equivalent to the 104. So i've ruled it out as over budget, and its ugly in stock form.
Last point is batteries. I dont want to have to buy one specific for the car. I mainly use Gens Ace 5000mah 40c 2s, but also have Gens Ace 4000mah 25c 2s Stick Pack, 5000 40c turnigy 2s and a 4000 40c turnigy 2s. Last resort i have a few 3300ish nimh stickpacks.
So, 3 Racing F109, or Tamiya F104?
07-22-2011, 06:37 AM
#2
maybe the F104 guys can chime in.
I bought an F104 because it looks amazing (scale is a large part of f1 is it not??
), and was designed by Tech Racing. The battery inline down the center sounded like a great idea...
However, after building it and driving it, the execution of the chassis design is not so good. The pivot location of the screw adjustment for the rear T plate is much too close to the motor pod, making the rear end extremely stiff.
Not sure if this alone contributed to it, but the car had very odd handling characteristics. Nothign like the F103 of old...
The car would have tons of off power understeer, and on power oversteer. The transitions between the two would be relatively quick, so it was a handful to drive on less than ideal surfacing.
I've read fantastic things about the F109... people say the car is so good that the f104 cant even be compared--it's of a different class. if you want a good handling f1 car and arent limited to tamiya, f109 is cheaper and higher performing. the link rear end alone is worth it.
change up the f109 front arms to f104 items if you like the modern narrow look, and you got yourself a scale looking f1 again (with body and tires also needed, of course)
I bought an F104 because it looks amazing (scale is a large part of f1 is it not??
), and was designed by Tech Racing. The battery inline down the center sounded like a great idea...However, after building it and driving it, the execution of the chassis design is not so good. The pivot location of the screw adjustment for the rear T plate is much too close to the motor pod, making the rear end extremely stiff.
Not sure if this alone contributed to it, but the car had very odd handling characteristics. Nothign like the F103 of old...
The car would have tons of off power understeer, and on power oversteer. The transitions between the two would be relatively quick, so it was a handful to drive on less than ideal surfacing.
I've read fantastic things about the F109... people say the car is so good that the f104 cant even be compared--it's of a different class. if you want a good handling f1 car and arent limited to tamiya, f109 is cheaper and higher performing. the link rear end alone is worth it.
change up the f109 front arms to f104 items if you like the modern narrow look, and you got yourself a scale looking f1 again (with body and tires also needed, of course)
07-22-2011, 09:20 AM
#4
The 104 needs a lot of work to get it setup right. The 109 needs less work to dial it in.
07-22-2011, 03:23 PM
#10
Tech Master
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not even close-- had 2 104's sold em 
now have 2 109's
and a bunch of 103's
ya don't need a crazy servo in an F1 I'm using 1/12 servos or mid speed ones.10-.15,heck I even have some 3003's in some
now have 2 109'sand a bunch of 103's
ya don't need a crazy servo in an F1 I'm using 1/12 servos or mid speed ones.10-.15,heck I even have some 3003's in some
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