Ta04r...
03-14-2003, 01:59 PM
#1291
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Trackside, Wisconsin/Seal Bay Alaska
Posts: 809
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Originally posted by Difuser
I wish I had the budget to do that Mike.
Locally TCS used to be run by Galaxy Hobby their program was ok but it was a very laid back race program. Burien Toyota is the host this year we race TCS about 50 weeks a year Nats and Mothers Day are the only breaks! They have a full hobby store in the dealership and any Tamiya part you need is generally on the wall.
So far we have had 4 national champs come from the program here the cool part is it's a fun group of people and we take anywhere from 13-23 people down to Nats yearly. The only other out of town contingent that comes in as a group is those S'consin cheeseheads. haha
Dan
I wish I had the budget to do that Mike.
Locally TCS used to be run by Galaxy Hobby their program was ok but it was a very laid back race program. Burien Toyota is the host this year we race TCS about 50 weeks a year Nats and Mothers Day are the only breaks! They have a full hobby store in the dealership and any Tamiya part you need is generally on the wall.
So far we have had 4 national champs come from the program here the cool part is it's a fun group of people and we take anywhere from 13-23 people down to Nats yearly. The only other out of town contingent that comes in as a group is those S'consin cheeseheads. haha
Dan
03-14-2003, 05:49 PM
#1293
Dayten
I suggest you pick up a set of the hard Tamiya springs for the car. You want the one with the darker colors, not the fluroescent ones. Run red springs in the rear with the kit, yellow, springs up front. I run 40 weight Trinity oil all around. I'd start off with the front and rear shocks laid all the way down on the shock tower and the innermost mount point on the lower arms. I found the car needs quite a bit of negative camber up front to get good steering, so I run 2.5 degrees up front and 1.5 in the rear. You can try being less aggressive to start with, maybe 1.5 up front and 1 in the rear. If you have some Tamiya type A tires, try them out. If you have the R kit, use Yokomo firm inserts instead of the blue Tamiya ones. When it gets warmer, try the B2's. Other than that, I can't think of much else to do to the car except the battery tray insulation as discussed previously. I used some of that teflon stuff you stick to the bottom of a graphite chassis. Sheldons has it for around $5. I just cut a piece to go across the battery tray and trimmed it with a x-acto knife. This is something you need to do if you run the graphite tub chassis. Hopefully it won't rain on Sunday and I'll see you out there. You need to come race the GT3 class at Hobbytown the following Sat. That is a fun class. We also started racing rally at H-town and Sheldons. That's another fun class. Too many cars to race...
I suggest you pick up a set of the hard Tamiya springs for the car. You want the one with the darker colors, not the fluroescent ones. Run red springs in the rear with the kit, yellow, springs up front. I run 40 weight Trinity oil all around. I'd start off with the front and rear shocks laid all the way down on the shock tower and the innermost mount point on the lower arms. I found the car needs quite a bit of negative camber up front to get good steering, so I run 2.5 degrees up front and 1.5 in the rear. You can try being less aggressive to start with, maybe 1.5 up front and 1 in the rear. If you have some Tamiya type A tires, try them out. If you have the R kit, use Yokomo firm inserts instead of the blue Tamiya ones. When it gets warmer, try the B2's. Other than that, I can't think of much else to do to the car except the battery tray insulation as discussed previously. I used some of that teflon stuff you stick to the bottom of a graphite chassis. Sheldons has it for around $5. I just cut a piece to go across the battery tray and trimmed it with a x-acto knife. This is something you need to do if you run the graphite tub chassis. Hopefully it won't rain on Sunday and I'll see you out there. You need to come race the GT3 class at Hobbytown the following Sat. That is a fun class. We also started racing rally at H-town and Sheldons. That's another fun class. Too many cars to race...
03-16-2003, 01:27 PM
#1294
Tech Adept
psycho
Hey thanks for the setup advice for the 04. I haven't had any time running the car at all. I just ran it once (rccar) since I got it and that was it. I hope to be out at RCCAR next week sunday.
What car are you using to run rally. Is it only limited to Tamiya cars? Sounds like a fun class.
Hey thanks for the setup advice for the 04. I haven't had any time running the car at all. I just ran it once (rccar) since I got it and that was it. I hope to be out at RCCAR next week sunday.
What car are you using to run rally. Is it only limited to Tamiya cars? Sounds like a fun class.
03-16-2003, 05:57 PM
#1295
Hi, I'm having some problems with my car, perhaps you guys can shed some light on the situation.
-I started off with yellow springs all around, stock camber, 5mm droop rear 2mm in front. The car was oversteering very uncontrollably.
-Switched to white springs all around, increased front droop to 3mm approx and 2mm rear approx. A little better.
-Tried white springs in front, blue in the rear, same droop. Got worse (ie. more prone to spinning)!
-Add more negative rear camber (3.0mm of rod showing between connectors), front droop 2mm, rear 3mm approx. A litte better.
- Finally, add more negative rear camber by reducing the length of the upper links by 0.5mm. Now it understeers like a pig!!
Now here's my question: It seems that decreasing the length of the upper suspension link by 0.5mm has such a profound effect as to turn my car from an oversteering pig to an understeering pig. I'm very very puzzled. 
Also, why would softer springs in the rear bring about more oversteering tendency?
The track is carpet, tires are Takeoffs. Oh, here's a pic
:
Thanks
-I started off with yellow springs all around, stock camber, 5mm droop rear 2mm in front. The car was oversteering very uncontrollably.
-Switched to white springs all around, increased front droop to 3mm approx and 2mm rear approx. A little better.
-Tried white springs in front, blue in the rear, same droop. Got worse (ie. more prone to spinning)!
-Add more negative rear camber (3.0mm of rod showing between connectors), front droop 2mm, rear 3mm approx. A litte better.
- Finally, add more negative rear camber by reducing the length of the upper links by 0.5mm. Now it understeers like a pig!!
Now here's my question: It seems that decreasing the length of the upper suspension link by 0.5mm has such a profound effect as to turn my car from an oversteering pig to an understeering pig. I'm very very puzzled.
Also, why would softer springs in the rear bring about more oversteering tendency?The track is carpet, tires are Takeoffs. Oh, here's a pic
: Thanks
03-16-2003, 06:08 PM
#1296
some of your problem could be very similar to the problems i was having at the carpet nats for a while.
try going back to where you started in the set up, with white and white springs, and go one step softer in the front spring, to a blue.
when you start to run stiff springs, sometimes it wil, cause the suspension to react to fast, causing your oversteer.
try this, if it does not help, post again and we can figure something else out.
peter
try going back to where you started in the set up, with white and white springs, and go one step softer in the front spring, to a blue.
when you start to run stiff springs, sometimes it wil, cause the suspension to react to fast, causing your oversteer.
try this, if it does not help, post again and we can figure something else out.
peter
03-16-2003, 06:09 PM
#1297
Tech Regular
hey ISO OCTANE I have the same problem as you at TORC, my car is uncontrolably breaking loose mostly enterance of the turn or exit (and only happens on fast turns). What's your setup and are you running one-ways? I kind of got the car to work for one pack of batter then all hell broke loose on the next pack of battery so I'm still working on setup.
by Decreasing the link by 0.5mm i think that can be a lot. That might even be more than 1 degree of change. you should get a chamber gauge and check what is your actual chamber because the way you're saying is not very actuarte(actually i have the RPM chamber gauge for sale if you want one).
by Decreasing the link by 0.5mm i think that can be a lot. That might even be more than 1 degree of change. you should get a chamber gauge and check what is your actual chamber because the way you're saying is not very actuarte(actually i have the RPM chamber gauge for sale if you want one).
03-16-2003, 06:30 PM
#1298
Hi Peter, thanks for the suggestion, I'll certainly give it a shot.
JCR, hi, I was basically breaking loose everywhere. I was able to 180 the car on demand almost anywhere(which meant I could take evil evil lines, particularly that first 180 in that pic, provided I could pull it off), and was keeping the car in line using throttle.
My 04-Pro doesnt have turn buckles, so it's basically one complete revolution of the ballcup end of the sus. link. That equals 0.5mm change in length of the link.
Thanks for the offer, but I'll make due with a protracter and a ruler
(as soon as I find my protracter).
JCR, hi, I was basically breaking loose everywhere. I was able to 180 the car on demand almost anywhere(which meant I could take evil evil lines, particularly that first 180 in that pic, provided I could pull it off), and was keeping the car in line using throttle.
My 04-Pro doesnt have turn buckles, so it's basically one complete revolution of the ballcup end of the sus. link. That equals 0.5mm change in length of the link.
Thanks for the offer, but I'll make due with a protracter and a ruler
(as soon as I find my protracter).
03-16-2003, 06:36 PM
#1299
Tech Regular
yeah i'm having the same problem as soon as i try ot apply throttle for a turn it kills me.
but are you using one-ways or not?
i found that different spring setting didn't help, i say go back to all yellow springs. and i was sliding so much that the tires started to blister. and try lowering the rear shock position(well i'm going to try it next time i go to TORC). Also try loosening the rear diff, for me that help quite a bit.
but are you using one-ways or not?
i found that different spring setting didn't help, i say go back to all yellow springs. and i was sliding so much that the tires started to blister. and try lowering the rear shock position(well i'm going to try it next time i go to TORC). Also try loosening the rear diff, for me that help quite a bit.
03-16-2003, 06:46 PM
#1300
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Trackside, Wisconsin/Seal Bay Alaska
Posts: 809
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Originally posted by Difuser
Just leave Gary at home........
Unfortunately I heard he has to take a year or two off from Nats that's too bad. Look forward to meeting you
Just leave Gary at home........
Unfortunately I heard he has to take a year or two off from Nats that's too bad. Look forward to meeting you
Come on! I know you'll miss Gary. Maybe he can come out and take pictures for RCCA!
03-16-2003, 07:55 PM
#1301
Nope, I'm not using oneways.
I really don't like the yellows though, since the car rolls so much with them...
The track was really pebbly today, so much crap was stuck to the tires it was unbelievable. Maybe that's the problem with your car sliding particulary much.
I really don't like the yellows though, since the car rolls so much with them...
The track was really pebbly today, so much crap was stuck to the tires it was unbelievable. Maybe that's the problem with your car sliding particulary much.
03-16-2003, 08:06 PM
#1302
Tech Regular
yeah i did notice my tires had a lot of crap stuck to it and i wasn't even using traction compound. the track was quite dirty.
well i'm using one-ways and i'm having problem and i thought it was the one-way, i guess not. but i think the yellow springs might work better than the stiffer ones in this type of condition. and if you want less roll try a sway bar at the front. i'm using a yellow up front.
well i'm using one-ways and i'm having problem and i thought it was the one-way, i guess not. but i think the yellow springs might work better than the stiffer ones in this type of condition. and if you want less roll try a sway bar at the front. i'm using a yellow up front.
03-16-2003, 08:13 PM
#1303
Regional Moderator
OK racing today. First heat I got bashed on the first turn, was last after it cleared up. Had to work my way up and finshed 3rd. 2nd heat, different story, Had 1st for 1/4 of the race, finished 2nd in that heat. A main, got punted and my servo saver couldn't help with the bang, stripped the servo saver so I had to take the car off the track, then center the servo with the power on to fix it but it was over by then, I placed 7 in the Main. Switched servo savers immediately after the race, got a kimbrough.
overall, the handled well through the infield and had good straight away speed.
overall, the handled well through the infield and had good straight away speed.
03-18-2003, 04:00 PM
#1305
Originally posted by lonestar1127
hi guys,
is it alright to use a 120 spur for modified motor???
thanx
hi guys,
is it alright to use a 120 spur for modified motor???
thanx