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Old 11-21-2002, 10:51 PM   #871
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Impact,

I agree totally. You are right.
But I was just being curious.

Since over here were gonne be racing 23t Tamiyas for 10min heats Well ectually races, since there will be points awarded for every run.

Then it becomes very interesting to find the balance between efficiency and speed.

Which has the bigger gain.


Thanks,
Pizza

Last edited by PizzaDude; 11-21-2002 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 11-21-2002, 11:01 PM   #872
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For the most efficiency you would want dual one-ways if conditions allow. also you will want to soak your bearings in paint thinner over night and then spray out with motor spray,then relube with a light machine oil. If you make sure to remove all of the dirt on the outside carefully so not to push it past the seals you can leave them intact. You could also totally remove the sheilds (seals) and leave them off, but this will definately double your bearing maintenance......

Also try soaking your belts for a few days in wd-40 or whatever similar sylicone based lube you can get your hands on.....
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Old 11-21-2002, 11:16 PM   #873
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IMPACT,


I appreciate the help but I didi all that allready.
I owned one off the first Pro2's and I gather all the tricks done on that baby applies.

Also I used to run on my HPI, just about only the dual one-way conversion.

One difference, I do also like to run my TA-04 in 4wd.
Where as my pro2 allways raun withe the double oneway.
just becuase I did not like it in 4wd.


So really car specific info on the TA-04 is what I still miss.
Especially since no one has ever done a series with rules like ours for next year. 23t Tamiya stocks for 10min per run. 4 race runs per day.
Point totall is it!

Pizza
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Old 11-22-2002, 12:33 AM   #874
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Quote:
Originally posted by IMPACTPLAYR

Also try soaking your belts for a few days in wd-40 or whatever similar sylicone based lube you can get your hands on.....
Isn't WD40 kerosene based? Wouldn't it harm the rubber belts?

Anybody tried using lubricants with Teflon Content? Is it any good?

Thanks
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Old 11-22-2002, 02:07 AM   #875
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Quote:
Originally posted by PizzaDude
Steevo,
I'll soon also have my hands on the carbon saddle pack chassis.
Lets see who's first to weigh this baby.
Pizza Thanks for the Add ons to the weights. I think that you will probably beat me to the carbon chassis seeing as i order all my parts from Hong Kong and it will be a couple of weeks before I have enough money to pay for my ever increasing order. As for your other question I think the other guys have answered it.

Thanks
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Old 11-22-2002, 05:54 AM   #876
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Wow! I'm really surprised by just how much lighter the ball differential with delrin outdrives is compared to the gear diff.
Almost half the weight of gear diff which translate to a significant reduction in rotational mass!
Ball diffs are definitely on my hop up list next.

Thanks for the very informative post Steevo
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Old 11-22-2002, 07:53 AM   #877
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Remember ball diffs and delrin outdrives will also make something else alot lighter...... YOUR WALLET....LOL But well worth the money!!!
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Old 11-22-2002, 09:49 AM   #878
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Default Thanks Steevo

Thanks a lot for the wieght watchers post...now I know what to get!
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Old 11-22-2002, 02:56 PM   #879
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Steevo

Did you happen to weight the car stock without electrics and battery installed?
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Old 11-22-2002, 03:05 PM   #880
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PSYCHO,
I didn't get to weigh the whole car because my Balance scales will only weigh up to 500g and I don't trust my bathroom scales
According to the Tamiya Catalogue the TA04S chassis weighs in at 895g.

Steevo
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Old 11-23-2002, 01:35 AM   #881
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Default BALL DIFF QUESTION

How often do you guys have to tighten your diffs??
It seems that I have to tighten mine after every race.......Is this usual???
I am running a 9 Turn single motor. Would the high RPM or torque cause the diff to loosen so Quickly??
Your opinions as usual are much appreciated.

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Old 11-23-2002, 02:12 AM   #882
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Steevo,

For sure when you're running these hot mods (below 12t) the diffs should be checked every race.
If the track is a tight and twisty one, the diff gets to work alot harder.
Also the diff setting changing is not uncommon at all.

Check frecquently.
And rebuilt the diff also often as the grease is spinning out at a high rate...because of the insane speeds the hot mods do.

Regards,
Pizza
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Old 11-23-2002, 02:51 AM   #883
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Thanks Pizza,
I just wanted to be sure there was no other reason why they were coming loose.
BTW how often do you service your diffs?? I have been doing mine every 8 Races or so but I think they would benefit from more frequent servicing what do you think??
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Old 11-23-2002, 03:05 AM   #884
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Steevo,

I only service them when I think they do not feel right any more.
Don't touch it if it is OK.

I think about 8 races could be OK.
But it really depends what the conditions are.

If your diff does not slip too much, and it feels smooth (not gritty) then it is OK.
If you've doubts about any of these, then check the diff.

rom Atlas there is somekind of diff protection sheet/sticker available for the TA-04.
I'm thinking about ordering it is pretty cheap.

Also one more thing that is important.
When you do run hot mods, renew the tiny locknutin the diff once in awhile, then the diff settings should stay more consistent.

good luck to ya.

Pizza's all the way baby
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Old 11-25-2002, 09:23 AM   #885
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You could also try a dab of blue loctite on the tip of the diff screw. It looks to me that the diff screw could stand to be about 2 or 3 mm longer so it goes all the way through the aircraft nut. I think the reason it may be backing out is because it doesn't go all the way through the nylon on the nut. If you use the blue (rather than red) loctite, you'll still be able to take the diff apart later when you need to.
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