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Old 01-07-2002, 06:28 AM   #301
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The Grub screws take up play in the swaybar mounts, that way you can use different size bars and not have to have different mounts for different thicknesses. I aways adjust the screw with the bar disconnected from the suspension, I start with the bar at an elevated angleand tighten the screw until it will not fall under it's own power. Next I will slowly loosen the screw until thw bar drops. Another thing I do with the bar is to remove the paint from the center of the bar so that the entire area that goes thru the mount is bare metal, this will also help fight agianst binding.

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-15-2002, 04:43 PM   #302
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FRONT ONEWAY UNIT AND CENTER LAY SHAFT ONEWAY

GUYS,

If i'll install a front oneway unit of my TA04 do i still need to install another oneway for the center lay shaft? can you give me the pros and cons of adding a oneway. do i need to install both or if i install the front oneway there is no use for the center oneway anymore?

thanks!!!



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Old 01-15-2002, 05:05 PM   #303
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I wanted to know if anyone knows where the video of someone racing their TA04 in Australia is, i saw it on this site a couple of months ago, but have been unable to find it.

I am trying to show some people in my office what my hobby is so if anyone has any other good racing footage can they please put it on the board.

thanks in advance
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Old 01-15-2002, 05:47 PM   #304
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No, you do not need to run a Center one-way to run a Front one-way.

Here are great sites explaining one ways.

http://www.rccaraction.com/articles/oneways.asp

In my experience, I only use one ways where there is high enough traction and I usually don't use the one-ways at a twisty track layout.
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Old 01-15-2002, 08:44 PM   #305
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Aurra Sing : thanks!!! ok, granting that i won't install the one ways for technical tracks, how can i increase the aggresiveness of my steering for the initial turn-in? i'm racing stock so there is too much drag from the motor once i release throttle. It slows down too quickly that sometimes i end up short of the turn?

thanks in advance


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Old 01-16-2002, 06:58 AM   #306
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While I was still learning to setup my car, I found that the best way to get more aggressive steering is to use much harder springs all four corners instead of harder springs in the rear. I use Associated Red springs, which are a lot harder than the Tamiya White. You can also adjust the ackerman of the steering, but it makes the car too unpredictable. Play around with the sway bars, too, because the TA04R is very responsive to setup changes.

Actually, if you really really need more aggressive turn-in, run the one-ways!
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Old 01-16-2002, 08:53 AM   #307
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badboy,

Going to the 6 deg front castor block will also increase turn in dramatically over the 10 deg castor blocks. The 6 deg are standard on the 04-R and the 10 deg are standard on the 04/04-pro. Aurra is right, if you want a ton more turn in, run the 1-ways!


Aurra,

You were correct. the Tamiya rims are stiff AND indestructable!
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Old 01-16-2002, 05:09 PM   #308
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guys,

thanks for all the inputs!!! i'll decide over the weekend if i'm still getting those oneways


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Old 01-17-2002, 10:59 AM   #309
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Anyone know how stiff the TA04-Pro stock gold springs are? Thanks.
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Old 01-23-2002, 04:27 AM   #310
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Quote:
Originally posted by linger
badboy,
Going to the 6 deg front castor block will also increase turn in dramatically over the 10 deg castor blocks. The 6 deg are standard on the 04-R and the 10 deg are standard on the 04/04-pro. Aurra is right, if you want a ton more turn in, run the 1-ways!
Much more turn in with the one-way off power... somehow I feel on my tb01 that on-power, the one ways, due to the lack of differential action, will understeer at certain positions.

OTOH, I am wondering if there is a possibility of getting the 4 degree castor blocks used on the 414M for my R
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Old 01-23-2002, 04:31 AM   #311
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Default Hop Up Option 53456 / OP-456

Dudes,
just acquired the above hop up (TA04 Turnbuckle Upper Arm Set) to replace my pretty worn out original ball caps on my 04. However, the turnbuckle meant for the front upper link is only 18mm long, compared to the rear turnbuckle which is 23mm long.

So basically if I want to use the new turnbuckle, I need to use the outer camberlink hole on the shock tower. Which I do not want to use at most times. Any ideas how to solve this? Apart from buying yet another pack of the option part

Thanks.
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Old 01-23-2002, 06:35 AM   #312
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Could you tighten the turnbuckle even more?

Anyway, I don't like those Tamiya turnbuckles. The adjuster portion is too small! Or maybe it's just the turnbuckle wrench. I will upgrade to Lunsford soon (414M.)

Also, when I was running the TA04R, I was told to use the top/inside most holes on the shock tower to most simulate the 414M. With this and Associated red springs, the car was great. Very responsive with my modified motor.
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Old 01-23-2002, 08:05 AM   #313
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is there a major difference between TA04 pro and TA04 R?
i came across a built but not ran yet TA04 pro asking for 120USD, is that a good deal?
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Old 01-23-2002, 11:11 AM   #314
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fire
is there a major difference between TA04 pro and TA04 R?
i came across a built but not ran yet TA04 pro asking for 120USD, is that a good deal?
The 04-pro is good, but the 04-R is much better. In stock form, the 04-pro is too softly sprung, turns in way too slow, and has below average rear end stability. For $120, the 04-pro is a good deal, but a new 04-R is still a better deal-if you can find one.
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Old 01-23-2002, 11:13 AM   #315
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I won a Ta04-R,
Is there a way to decrease the front castor even more...like 4 deg?

What about rear toe? Is there a way to increase rear toe to 2.5 or 3 deg?
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