r0adrunn3r

iTrader: (3)

The Part Number is:

50871 - TA04 PRO J PARTS (Battery Holder) (J1 - J4)

r0adrunn3r

iTrader: (3)

Hi sushi Man,

What did you do to get it so far underweight? Any Pics of it?

Mine has Carbon Fibre bottom deck, Alloy gears on drive train, but still is well over 1500 grams.

Cheers,

Tony

lem2

iTrader: (6)

Look back a couple of pages, look what I did to my 04. Personnaly running the lightweight carbon reinforced chassis is better-- stiffer!

I miss my 04!

Edgarski

iTrader: (10)

Thanks Roadrunner......guys one more question, if I change from tub to carbon fibre chassis do I need to change the chassis 'screw' ? can I still re-use the screw from tub chassis?
Cheers

Edgarski

iTrader: (10)

..just found out it comes with its own set of screw...thanks anyway guys..

blindjudge

i noticed that my rear belt is kinda loose.... since it is relatively new, is there a way of adding tension to the rear belt? or do i have to change it? i may be losing some power from the slack in the rear belt....

Barry W

iTrader: (1)

I just built a TA-04R and i'm getting problems with the diff balls.... they seem out of round? Once the diff screw is tightened the diff gos from stiff to loose when you turn it back and forth. I checked the diff plates and they are seated where they are supposed to be, and didn't find anything getting in the way of the plate seating to the outdrive.
I removed the balls and just used the outdrives with plates and the diff worked like it should, smooth back and forth. It seems once I put the diff balls in its like I have flat spots on the balls.....

Anyone else see this?

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

Sound more like you stripped the diff screw, nut or what holds the lock nut in place, or you forgot to lube the thrust bearing? Oh, and lastly check if the spring is broken or you forgot to put it in.
By the way, I've done all of the above!
I'd check those first before replacing the balls or assuming they are bad!

Barry W

iTrader: (1)

I will have to take another look at it.... strange that both diffs are having the same problems?

Edgarski

iTrader: (10)

Same prob with my ta04R I tried replacing the ball diffs, pulley, diff plates, thrust bearing and finally replacing the diff joint cup fixes the problem.

Get a new diff joint cup.One(or both) of 'plastic' part on diff joint cup is slightly out of shape. try to put the cups together with one bearing inside, spin it slowly and pay attention on the gap between plastics you will see the plastic wobbles as you spin.. .....

Better get the 53480 lightweight diff joint cup as replacement

hope it helps.

Barry W

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the help .... I will order the light weight diff outdrives.

rccardr

iTrader: (8)

No question that the delrin lightweight diffs are superior (for the rear), but you may also be able to flatten out the plastic part of it with some sandpaper and a flat surface like a piece of glass.

Redwings

iTrader: (4)

Hey Guys,

I'm looking at buying a TA04 off a guy for $70.00 CAN. I was just wondering what I should be looking for it see if its worth it or not. I'm looking to move up to GT2 and further looking at getting out of rally with my TT01.
P.S Can you recommed and TCS Set up for this car as well ?

Thanks

Paul
Mississauga Ontario Canada.

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

Wear and tear on the chassis, see if there are heavy scratches on the bottom and if the ends are rounded, then check tweak, if the chassis is bowed,then see if the bulkheads where the screws tighten are stripped. If any of these conditions are present besides scratches which is just cosmetic then the lower chassis will have to be replaced.That's about $40.00 U.S.
Then check for play in the universal shafts and wheel bearings ,when you rotate the front and rear wheels they should spin free for a couple of seconds, then last check the outdrives if they have a notch worn in them from too much abuse.
Rotate the rear wheels and see how crunchy the diff. is. It should feel smooth. If not then the diff will need to be replaced. About $30.00 U.S.
Oh and check the teeth of the belts and the pullys including the center gear pully for wear. Belts about $15.00 U.S. Center pully, if it's a one-way about $20.U.S. Oh, and make sure the one-way goes just forward and not backwards.
These are the most common parts of this chassis or for that matter any chassis that has seen better days!
Just my 2$

MFLORES

I'm still a fan of this car! It's good to know that there are others still using it.

Here are pictures of my 04. It's an R-tuned kit.