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Old 09-08-2003, 11:12 AM   #1606
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Lem2,

I finally got my car running after almost a year of waiting due to budget constraint. Got to play with it just last friday and already a major issue to worry about. My Futaba MC800 esc won't brake after just 3 or 4 minutes of runs and bumps. Do you think Lils can still repair it without sending it to Futaba Japan? They did say that I might be possible. Good thing I got a backup esc.
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Old 09-08-2003, 11:20 AM   #1607
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Default BALUGA

Check your ESC first, do set up again. Place Schotky Diode on the motor. Notreally familiar with the ESC since I'm all
"Blue is Better!" Maybe the guys here with the same esc can help.

Yes Lil's MIGHT be able to fix it, I hope so!! If they do send it back-that's about 6months to 1 year of waiting!! Remember the busted LRP's almost a year and I think, ithas not yet been sent back to Germany. (again, i think)

Peace and Happy Racing!
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Old 09-08-2003, 01:29 PM   #1608
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Lem2,

I already did everything. The brake just won't work. About the blue thing, are you referring to LRP? The race that you have won, are u racing in mod class? What motor are you using?
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Old 09-13-2003, 01:25 AM   #1609
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Default Re: Re: RE: TA04-R TUNED CHASSIS KIT

Quote:
Originally posted by moshmike
The R chassis is well worth the upgrade from the S chassis. It is the dominant chassis in GT2. All the hop ups are worth it. Although, if you plan on running an 11 turn, you should strongly consider an EVO3. The R would get it's butt kicked from the EVO's.
hey guys.. just bought the TA04-R Tuned Chassis..and i already have the TAO4-TRF SS. if you have a chance.. go ahead and buy the TRF. the only advantage the Tuned Chassis has is that its cheaper..and it already comes with the short springs.

04TRF comes with all the hop ups already. you can just buy the graphite tub to make it TCS legal. if you buy the R Tuned... it'll be TCS legal right off the bat.

i dont run much mod and i stay in stock most of the time.. but you wont have a chance against an Evo III, Evo IIISLE or even an MII when it comes to mod. MII is probably your best bet for Mod if you want to stick with a belt driven car.

btw.. Tuned Chassis comes with some really cool looking stickers! hahahaha but thats not the reason i bought it!
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Old 09-13-2003, 01:46 AM   #1610
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Hebik!
Look who's up and awake! Done with the R-tuned?
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Old 09-14-2003, 03:51 AM   #1611
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Guys set up issues, I'm running the Ta04 TRF on a long asphlat track in Johson 540 class (grey motors), the rollout people are generally aiming for is between 41-44, can anyone give me a combination of either .04 module or 48pitch gears that will get that?

I was running 84/39 48pitch, but the motor was cooking, I dropped to 112/51 .04 module and still cooking, the tyres are roughly 62mm wide which gives me like rollout of 40mm which doesn't sound right? The drivetrain is free and I've tried 2 different motors, I can't figure out where to start on a gear ratio.
The car isn't super slow, but its always trailing down the straights.

plz help as the titles are coming up soon!!!
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Old 09-14-2003, 06:24 PM   #1612
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I got a prob with my ta04R.

I notice that recently whenever I had a "crash", cld be just a slight tap, my car seems to go zig zag, can't get it to track straight no matter how I adjust the trim.

Initially I thought it cld be the bearings binding or the servo stay needed replacement. After cleaning the bearings and replacement of the servo stay, the car does track true and straight, but just a light tap with a couple of cars, the car lost all sense of direction yet again. What cld the prob be?

Any advice would be appreciated.
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Old 09-14-2003, 10:33 PM   #1613
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tronky
I got a prob with my ta04R.

I notice that recently whenever I had a "crash", cld be just a slight tap, my car seems to go zig zag, can't get it to track straight no matter how I adjust the trim.

Initially I thought it cld be the bearings binding or the servo stay needed replacement. After cleaning the bearings and replacement of the servo stay, the car does track true and straight, but just a light tap with a couple of cars, the car lost all sense of direction yet again. What cld the prob be?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Most probably your servo or servo saver is busted.

Try using a different servo to see if it will happen again.
Just borrow one first to isolate the prob;lem.
Peace and hapy racing!
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Old 09-15-2003, 12:09 PM   #1614
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It could be that you have broken gears in your servo and it could just be that your servo saver isn't strong enough. I feel that the best servo saver made by any brand is the Tamiya High Torque Servo Saver. It's also the most expensive, but it works really well, has minimal slop and strong springs to pull it back to center.
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Old 09-15-2003, 12:35 PM   #1615
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tronky
I got a prob with my ta04R.

I notice that recently whenever I had a "crash", cld be just a slight tap, my car seems to go zig zag, can't get it to track straight no matter how I adjust the trim.

Initially I thought it cld be the bearings binding or the servo stay needed replacement. After cleaning the bearings and replacement of the servo stay, the car does track true and straight, but just a light tap with a couple of cars, the car lost all sense of direction yet again. What cld the prob be?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Tronky. First make sure your tires are not wobbling :-). If not, your car is probably tweak. Unscrew all screws attaching the top plate. Put the chassis on a flat surface. Press the whole car down until the bottom chassis lays flat on the surface. You might need assistance from another person to keep it flat. Rescrew in a Crisscross manner. Slowly tightening it.
Make sure your droop, shock length, pressure are all equal on both sides. place it on top of a flat surface. Check the ride height on all sides are all equal and see if the tires will lift at the same time when lifted from the middle. If it doesn't your chassis is still tweak and might need replacement.
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Old 09-15-2003, 06:25 PM   #1616
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Thanks all for the advice, wld try them out over the weekends. Currently I'm on the stock servo saver from Tamiya, psycho, is that the one you mentioned or is there another hop up option?

Wld get a new servo saver and try it on a new servo, if it doesn't work, then it's time to use izzyracer's, reset up the car but even though my tyres doesn't wobble, I notice that 2 of them, the mounting holes actually kinda binds to the axle (doesn't go cleanly in and out, u gotta use some force), perhaps that cld be the prob too.
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Old 09-15-2003, 06:56 PM   #1617
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Guys set up issues, I'm running the Ta04 TRF on a long asphlat track in Johson 540 class (grey motors), the rollout people are generally aiming for is between 41-44, can anyone give me a combination of either .04 module or 48pitch gears that will get that?

I was running 84/39 48pitch, but the motor was cooking, I dropped to 112/51 .04 module and still cooking, the tyres are roughly 62mm wide which gives me like rollout of 40mm which doesn't sound right? The drivetrain is free and I've tried 2 different motors, I can't figure out where to start on a gear ratio.
The car isn't super slow, but its always trailing down the straights.

plz help as the titles are coming up soon!!!

COme on guys I really need help here
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Old 09-15-2003, 09:08 PM   #1618
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Quote:
Originally posted by hawker
Guys set up issues, I'm running the Ta04 TRF on a long asphlat track in Johson 540 class (grey motors), the rollout people are generally aiming for is between 41-44, can anyone give me a combination of either .04 module or 48pitch gears that will get that?

I was running 84/39 48pitch, but the motor was cooking, I dropped to 112/51 .04 module and still cooking, the tyres are roughly 62mm wide which gives me like rollout of 40mm which doesn't sound right? The drivetrain is free and I've tried 2 different motors, I can't figure out where to start on a gear ratio.
The car isn't super slow, but its always trailing down the straights.

plz help as the titles are coming up soon!!!

COme on guys I really need help here
I would think that you are wayyyyyyy overgeared. The only place I ever ran a 112/51 was on oval that was 900' around and that was with a 27turn motor with better magnets and I kept my finger in it the whole way...

The road course end the tallest I ever went was 44/112 and that was on a 1/5th scale roadcourse.

Many times with mabuchis the lower the better. I have not ran mabuchis in sedans but, in other classes. I usually run regular 05 motors stock/mod with sedans. With other classes the lower the better comparing Mabuchies to stock 27t motor.

Your main problem is probably not just the straights but also the infield. The infield probably does not look slow because of the momentum you carry. Out of the hole you probably have nothing.

I probably would start low like 35/120 and see what the rpms are like down the biggest straight. I cannot see going below 35 due to loss of topend. You probably would end up with playing with gears from 35-42 and spurs from 112-116-118-120. Usually the lower in spur the better you might be. It all depends on what fits.

I stumble into this area now and then, sounds like I will have some testing to do in a month or two to give a definative answer.
For the next time this question comes up. Even if I had a definate answer it depends on the tracksize, tires and suspension.

Coop
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Old 09-15-2003, 11:29 PM   #1619
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ok thanks for your help, i'll look at gearinf down, just what got me is that the rollout then means i'm very low compared to everyone else, but i'll see what happens, have u got a forulma to work out rolllout? I can't remember what it is
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Old 09-16-2003, 11:59 AM   #1620
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hawker, imo, you're going about it all in the wrong way. You should always gear your car for the track you are racing on, not based on someone elses rollout or gearing. If you do that, your car will be a lot faster. Even in a spec class where, theoretically, all motors are the same, there is variation. One arm might be wound better or better balanced than another. One set of magnets may be stronger than another. One endbell may have slightly advanced timing where another may not. The 540 motor has a pretty narrow band that you need to gear in to get the most out of the car. A few .1:1 away in final gear ratio and the car will lack squirt and/or topend. You should experiment with slight variations in gearing and see what the effect is on your laptimes. I find that it's best to rely on the laptimes, not your perception of whether the car is faster or slower. The last time I raced 540 GT3 class (a few weeks ago,) I was battling with a buddy of mine. I felt like my car was faster on the straight, but he was faster in the infield. As it turned out, he was geared .03:1 higher than me and it was true. I was running 5.3:1 and he was running 5.33:1. I switched to 5.33:1 and the car felt so slow on the straight, but a lot better on the infield. When I looked at the laptimes, they were virtually identical even though the car felt a lot slower to me at 5.33:1 The key is having a wide range of spurgears and pinions so you can find the precise gearing that gives you the fastest laptimes during practice. I also suggest that, when you buy those 540 motors that you buy 2 or 3 of them at a time. I've found quite a wide performance variation between motors. When I buy 3, I usually get one good motor and two so-so motors. When I dyno them at 5V, there is as much as 5 or 6 peak watts difference between them. That's quite a lot of variation. I hope that helps.
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