jorge858

What would be the different in over all cost on Electric On-Road top level from nitro on road?? 1/10 racing

and is handing about the same ?? I hear Electric car push alot more out of turns??

Look to maybe buy a car
Thanks for any info

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Nitro
Car = $500 (XRay, Serpent, Mugen, Shepherd, etc)
Engine = $300 - $400 (Nova based)
Steering servo = $100 (Quality brand)
Throttle servo = $50 (Quality brand)
Radio depends on what you choose (Airtronics, Futaba, KO)
Total = about $1000 not including radio

Electric
Car = $500 (XRay, Tamiya 417, Serpent 411, etc)
ESC = $150 - $200 (Tekin RS, Novak Kinetic, Higher end SP)
Lipo = $130 X 2 (Orion, Thunder Power, etc)
Steering servo = $100 (Quality brand)
Radio depends on what you choose (Airtronics, Futaba, KO)
Total = about $1000 not including radio

Other factors like support equipement

Nitro
Starter box = $70 - $100
Glow igniter = $30
Fuel = $30
Tires = $20/set

Electric
Charger = $60 - $150
Power supply = $50 - $100
Tires = $35/set

Really, they both cost about the same give or take a few bucks.

Both nitro and electric can push out of the turns or push into the turns, it really boils down to setup. The difference between electric and nitro is that in electric, the power is instant, in nitro, you need to rev towards your power band. However what is nice about nitro is 20min - 30min mains. Electric is just 5min.

I run both and I like them both. If you ask me which I prefer, I would say nitro simply because of the longer mains.

Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

YR4Dude's figures are for a Touring Car. If you want cheap look at 12th scale Electric:

Using similar figures:
Car: $220 - $250 (Associated, CRC)
Body: $30
2 x 1S LiPo: 2 x $80
Steering Servo: $100
Motor: $80
ESC: $150 - $200 (Need a dedicated 1S ESC or you'll be stuffing around with receiver packs or voltage boosters)
Total: about $700 less Radio

Tyres are cheaper and last longer if you don't go crazy with a truer. Some will say you need a truer but I got away without one for years.

RogerDaShrubber

iTrader: (6)

On a budget you can do pretty well and be rather competitive, you just need to be creative with what you buy and where, the following is in Aud, with stock club racer in mind.

Chassis $120 clone T2 Xray.
ROAR approved 4000ma 30C lipo's 3 * $22.
ROAR approved 17.5T brushless and ESC $120 (Speed Passion)
Servo 7.2kg-0.10sec-6.0v $50
Sweep Tires $13 per set of 4.
Sorex Rims and inserts $11 per set of 4.
Protoform body, $30
Deans Connectors for batteries <$10.


Add charger ($50-$120) and radio/receiver of choice (Spektrum DX3C and receiver $120)

As you can see, you can do pretty well on a budget and with a few sets of tires you can come out under $600 including radio and charger and have a very competitive outfit.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

as you can see he is looking for top level gear. basically, when your racing at the top, you have to not think about cost. that is reality. a T2 these days will not cut it. maybe for club racing, it may be fine, but he is looking at the high end of the market.

Foxxrocket

When you take into account the car's consumption of nitro and the wear on foam tires, nitro is more expensive in the long run. With electric cars, most of that cost is up front. You also have to remember that starter boxs use batteries too, which also need a charger.

Nick Groves

In the long run nitro is more expensive. Not only do you have to buy nitro all the time the motors don't last long. In my 1/8 nitro buggy I could get 5-6 gallons before the motor needed to be rebuilt or replaced. You also need to consider clutch shoes clutch springs and clutch bell bearings. These items also get replaced quite often and are not cheap. And then throw in the amount of time it consumes to properly clean and maintain everything.

Another thing is finding someone to help pit for you and to help tune your motor if you don't know how to do it.

This is why I will never do a nitro car again.

Robotech

And people wonder why on-road is dying...look at this mentality.

Jorge, and I don't mean this to come off sounding like an azz...but if you have to ask this question about on-road racing no matter what car and equipment you get, it's going to be better able to perform than you will when you are just starting out.

Focus on getting something to get your feet wet and see if you even like on-road racing. You may hate it and now you have $1,000 in top of the line equipment that you can't even give away. If you do like it, then as your skills get better, upgrade as you go and into the class that suits you best. Maybe 17.5 is too slow for you and you'll want to run mod or perhaps your track has a "spec" division where motor, tires, and ESC are limited. These things will help focus your decisions. Maybe sedan isn't what you want and pan car is more your desire.

Nitro vs. Electric is a personal preference. Generally, electric is more expensive up front while Nitro you have to keep buying fuel. If you have experiance with nitro engines that's a plus, otherwise there is a learning curve to them also that you will have to contend with. If all your tracks are big outdoor tracks then nitro may be more popular in your area whereas if you have a lot of indoor tracks, electric is going to have a bigger following.

On-road racing isn't cheap especially as you get to the higher levels of competition. Maybe money isn't an issue for you but don't get hung up on the "got to have the best to compete" mentality otherwise you'll miss the very important role the driver makes in racing. Getting your car set up to your driving style, whether nitro or electric, makes more of a difference than anything else. I have raced very competitive, high end cars and have turned the controller over to a peer and have them complain how uncontrollable the car was. It wasn't I was a better driver than him, just a different style and my car was perfect for my style but horrible for his.

So a decent, average car will be fine no matter what type, electric or nitro, it is. They'll all get the job done. In novice classes, equipment means very little and even in sportsman classes it's not often the deciding factor.

koopesv

iTrader: (18)

I got started for about 550.00 it wasnt that bad. I just didnt go balls to the wall with everything. Like said above I didnt want to spend a lot of money and then not like. I just purchased mid-range stuff.

TC5R Used 150.00 here on Rctech with 2 bodies
Speed Passion Pro Stock esc 100.00 (on SP website there on sale)
Trinity D3 75.00 (before the price went up)
2 Gens Ace lipos 55.00
Dynamite Passport lipo charger 65.00
Sweeps tires 28.00
Savox 1251 65.00
Already had a radio.

Setup Equipment is another story

But If look around here on Rctech you can get something good used, save your money and buy something better for next year.

redbones

get a quality charger. I went through 4 chargers (started with a cheap one) before finally getting the hyperion, which I wish I did from the beginning. You will need it for both nitro and electric. It will also charge lots of other stuff too.

koopesv

iTrader: (18)

You know I started to buy a higher brand charger with all the bells and whistles. But after doing some research and finding that most chargers only charger to 50 watts max. This being high end and mid-range on the price scale I just bought a mid-range priced one and never had a problem. If it Charges, Discharges and Balance Im good to go.

Now dont get me wrong I seen some those Hyperion and Triton chargers that Charger 100+ watts, they charge fast for sure. I might have to get one soon

Nilks

I previously had a "Imax B5" before, and not only it maxed out a 5A, but is was also terrible at balancing. It got the job done fine, but it took a REALLY long time.

So don't buy too cheap.
I am VERY happy with my Orion TwinSpec - fast charging, fast balancing!

RogerDaShrubber

iTrader: (6)

And if he was a top end racer he would have no reason to ask a stupid question like this, because he would already know how long the piece of string is and have all the gear to go with it. So a beginner does not need top end gear because they will be racing with other beginners in classes designed especially for them, spending more time bouncing off the walls and spinning out than doing laps.

+1 to this. I drive an LRP S10 Blast TC in 17.5T stock, and i enjoy nothing better than taking my cheep car and beating those in TC6, MI4, T3's and the like. The fact is, you do not need big money to start out, you can get an RTR batteries, charger, tires and some pinions and be really competitive for under $400 or a simular sort of number for a RTR Nitro car, like the GPX4 Hobao/ONFA, and for a beginner, this is more than enough investment and more than enough car to see if you are going to like the sport. From there, the sky is the limit.

superspeed

iTrader: (5)

Jorge, have you done any r/c car racing before?

Also, do you have any r/c on-road track or tracks nearby? Best thing to do is find out what's available around your area. You can have lots of fun racing r/c cars without burning a hole in your wallet.

At our hobby shop, we started a simple parking lot track with dots and cones. Spec class is M chassis from Tamiya. The 1/10 sedan class is pretty much run what you got. So far, most of employees and customers enjoy running the M chassis more. Finally, there are 4 regulars show up to demonstrate some side by side drifting actions.

Just remember the key is to have fun.

jake95

iTrader: (27)

i would think nitro is more expensive and alot harder to maintain than electric and nitro youll need to be buying fuel electric u just recharge