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Old 09-09-2013, 08:29 AM   #706
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Originally Posted by ta04evah View Post
From what I have personally witnessed, read and told about that the Mach2 is a dog.

I have been running an older 21.5 Reedy in blinky for well over 12 months set at 40 degrees timing & a FDR of around 3.1. On one occasion a cooling fan failed and the motor got so hot that it ruined the original rotor in it, but after replacing the rotor the motor has been performing well & reliably.

As for suggestions, don't buy another Reedy Mach2.

Cheers
Rob.
I have to disagree with your statement above with the Mach 2, 17.5 at least in a TC.

When I first put this motor in i tried the same timing gearing setups from a Mach 1, bad idea, i hated the motor.

Than i did more testing. The Mach 2 seems to have more default timing in the sensor board. So if you want to run in the 40 deg timing range you'll need to gear super low, like 4.4-4.5 range. If you free rev your car you'll hear the RPM, it's crazy. As an experiment i ran 45 timing and 4.6 gearing. the tires actually ballooned there was so much rpm. It actually ran fairly fast but the motor temp was up around 170ish after 5 min. Did a few more runs just for the hell of it, similar results.

Than i went the opposite direction, 30 timing 3.8 fdr. Just as fast as any other motor (aside from a D3.5) and temp was 145ish after 5 min. After 10 or so runs and different timing gearing options i narrowed in on this;

32 timing
3.7ish fdr
motor temp 160 after 5 min
Adjust slightly for your driving style and car setup

Test conditions, 96x42ft carpet track, technical layout, high grip. If you run on a track about this size you should like this motor setup.
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:06 PM   #707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
I have to disagree with your statement above with the Mach 2, 17.5 at least in a TC.

When I first put this motor in i tried the same timing gearing setups from a Mach 1, bad idea, i hated the motor.

Than i did more testing. The Mach 2 seems to have more default timing in the sensor board. So if you want to run in the 40 deg timing range you'll need to gear super low, like 4.4-4.5 range. If you free rev your car you'll hear the RPM, it's crazy. As an experiment i ran 45 timing and 4.6 gearing. the tires actually ballooned there was so much rpm. It actually ran fairly fast but the motor temp was up around 170ish after 5 min. Did a few more runs just for the hell of it, similar results.

Than i went the opposite direction, 30 timing 3.8 fdr. Just as fast as any other motor (aside from a D3.5) and temp was 145ish after 5 min. After 10 or so runs and different timing gearing options i narrowed in on this;

32 timing
3.7ish fdr
motor temp 160 after 5 min
Adjust slightly for your driving style and car setup

Test conditions, 96x42ft carpet track, technical layout, high grip. If you run on a track about this size you should like this motor setup.
Brent,

Given you have done some testing with the Mach 2, can you provide me any insight as to where I have made an error to smoke my 13.5 Blinky.

The reason I am trying the 13.5 is a change of rules next year which will see our On Road Stock class move from 17.5 boosted to 13.5 Blinky. It is likely a number of the existing 21.5 Blinky drivers will be experimenting with 13.5, now that the complexity (and possibly cost) of boost is to be removed from the Stock class.

My first run with the motor was at my home track at night, details as follows;
• Xray T4
• Low friction Kevlar belts
• 2000 oil in the gear diff
• Gearing - FDR 3.8
• 20 degrees timing on the can as per factory setting.
• Temped after 2 minutes, 4 minutes and 6 minutes – all cool at 40 deg C Max (arounf 105deg F)
• Ran three 5 minute heats/final – all temps around 40 deg c (104F) Maximum.

I ran the same car set-up at a slightly smaller track and the first heat was around 10:00am – ambient temperature was not that warm(Say 68deg F).

The motor smoked after about 3 minutes in the first heat. One of the marshall’s temped the car at 59.4deg C ( 160F). I loosened the pinion before removing anything, to check the drivetrain for binding – all spun smoothly.

I have been running 21.5 Blinky Reedy Mach 1's for a couple of years without issue, so and am not new to the brand.

Any ideas on what I might have done differently so as not to have smoked my new 13.5?

Regards, Brent (yes another one)
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Old 09-09-2013, 08:33 PM   #708
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I have had my 21.5T Mach2 die three weeks ago. Before that it was getting fairly warm. Stuck my old Mach 1 21.5T back in the car with the same gearing, and the old motor was noticeably cooler. Something is very wrong with the Mach 2
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Old 09-09-2013, 09:54 PM   #709
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Originally Posted by Burlap View Post
I have had my 21.5T Mach2 die three weeks ago. Before that it was getting fairly warm. Stuck my old Mach 1 21.5T back in the car with the same gearing, and the old motor was noticeably cooler. Something is very wrong with the Mach 2
Especially when no one wants to buy a brand new one at a very discounted price in Aus. Reedy Mach 2 BNIB 21.5

Normally the Reedy's retail for around $115 AU.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PDR TOO
I have been running 21.5 Blinky Reedy Mach 1's for a couple of years without issue, so and am not new to the brand.
As have I and others. I was warned about them running hotter & slower than the mach 1's in touring cars, one of the people to warn me first was Max's father.
Also at the ACT Indoor Titles not so long ago one of our guys put a new one in his car and struggled to get any speed out of for most of the weekend, no matter what gearing & timing he tried it ran slow and hot. Later on the Sunday he dropped an Orion (21.5) into with a conservative fdr and very little timing and you could see the immediate difference, with his car being as fast as anyone else's car on the day.

As for what you done wrong? Nothing, it was a bad motor and you're not alone in wondering why a mach 2 smoked with reasonable gear ratio.

Cheers
Rob.
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Old 09-09-2013, 11:21 PM   #710
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Originally Posted by PDR TOO View Post
Brent,

Given you have done some testing with the Mach 2, can you provide me any insight as to where I have made an error to smoke my 13.5 Blinky.

The reason I am trying the 13.5 is a change of rules next year which will see our On Road Stock class move from 17.5 boosted to 13.5 Blinky. It is likely a number of the existing 21.5 Blinky drivers will be experimenting with 13.5, now that the complexity (and possibly cost) of boost is to be removed from the Stock class.

.
.
.

I ran the same car set-up at a slightly smaller track and the first heat was around 10:00am – ambient temperature was not that warm(Say 68deg F).

The motor smoked after about 3 minutes in the first heat. One of the marshall’s temped the car at 59.4deg C ( 160F). I loosened the pinion before removing anything, to check the drivetrain for binding – all spun smoothly.

I have been running 21.5 Blinky Reedy Mach 1's for a couple of years without issue, so and am not new to the brand.

Any ideas on what I might have done differently so as not to have smoked my new 13.5?

Regards, Brent (yes another one)
It doesn't look like your setup would have caused this issue. In fact I would have probably run the motor with a bit more timing, 30 deg and an FDR around a 4.3, adjust from here for temp.

I would highly suggest you contact Associated \ Reedy for a replacement. Your replacement will not have this issue. In fact for anyone that has bought this motor and had it burn up in the first 5-10 runs and the temp was 130-150F when it smoked should do the same.



As for those saying this motor is slow, don't be afraid to time down below were you normally would. As I mentioned in my post above, this motor has about 8-10 deg of more timing built into the sensor board or the markings on the can are skewed in the positive direction. So for those trying to run the same timing or even close to the same as the Mach 1 will not like the result. I experienced this as well when i first started using my 17.5.
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Old 09-09-2013, 11:48 PM   #711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkspeedo View Post
It doesn't look like your setup would have caused this issue. In fact I would have probably run the motor with a bit more timing, 30 deg and an FDR around a 4.3, adjust from here for temp.

I would highly suggest you contact Associated \ Reedy for a replacement. Your replacement will not have this issue. In fact for anyone that has bought this motor and had it burn up in the first 5-10 runs and the temp was 130-150F when it smoked should do the same.



As for those saying this motor is slow, don't be afraid to time down below were you normally would. As I mentioned in my post above, this motor has about 8-10 deg of more timing built into the sensor board or the markings on the can are skewed in the positive direction. So for those trying to run the same timing or even close to the same as the Mach 1 will not like the result. I experienced this as well when i first started using my 17.5.

Thanks, Brent.

I couldn't see anything wrong either - nor could the chaps I was pitting with.

The hobby store who supplied the original approached Reedy however they don't want to know about it unless it smoked on the first run.

Having said that our LHS has a better attitude than Reedy and is looking after me.

Unfortunately, as you can see from the posts by "ta04eva" the Mach 2's are developing a poor rep in Sydney (AUST). I will be trying the replacement tonight - I hope your confidence in the replacement is well founded.

Thanks again,
Brent
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Old 10-14-2013, 11:27 AM   #712
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What is the best method and product to re-lube the bearings?

I was thinking just drop some oil in but I assume the came with grease which lasts longer
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Old 10-17-2013, 05:33 AM   #713
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Talking MACH2 can upgrade

This is to anybody who might know or know someone who tried.
I was able to fit my old stator and rotor in the Mach 2 can. I tried to do a bench test and it didn't sound good.
As mentioned before in the thread racers seem to think that the timing marks are more advanced from the original motor so if I turn the timing way down will that work? I initially had the timing at 40 deg. and like I said the results were not good on the bench.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
Max
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Old 10-24-2013, 10:07 AM   #714
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Hi guys, I have a mach 1 reedy 10.5 motor here that has no timing numbers (just lines) and it doesn't have the '540' under need the 'Reedy sonic' logo on the can... I notice that these 2 variations share a part number..

Could anybody tell me what the difference between this 10.5 and a version of the motor with the timing numbers and 540 on..?

Is it as simple as swopping the can and end bell to make the motor the same? (I have a spare one of these..)

thank you!
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Old 10-26-2013, 04:34 PM   #715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxepower View Post
This is to anybody who might know or know someone who tried.
I was able to fit my old stator and rotor in the Mach 2 can. I tried to do a bench test and it didn't sound good.
As mentioned before in the thread racers seem to think that the timing marks are more advanced from the original motor so if I turn the timing way down will that work? I initially had the timing at 40 deg. and like I said the results were not good on the bench.
Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
Max

The P/N for the rotors and stator for the 17.5 are the same for the original Sonic and the Mach 2. This can be found on the AE website.
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:12 PM   #716
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Any reccomendation for roll out starting point for Sonic gen. 1 - 17.5? (F1, 2S on carpet - TQ So Cal)

thanks in advance
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Old 11-03-2013, 04:59 AM   #717
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Default End Bell Problem

Hi,

I have the reedy sonic (not mach 2) 4.0 and 4.5T motors.

I have a problem with securing the endbell.

I gave up on the stock plastic covers and got the alu ones from jconcepts. However, same problem... I am unable to secure it so that it doesn't move. I have wrenched down on all 3 screws, but it just doesn't 'lock' in place.

Can someone pls advise?

thanks

sam
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:50 PM   #718
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Can anyone tell me if it's possible to replace the sensor side bearding on a Reedy Sonic (not Mach 2)? It seems sammiched between the two boards.
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:30 AM   #719
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Can anyone confirm that the sensor board is advanced in timing like the D3.5?
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Old 03-16-2014, 12:26 AM   #720
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Has anyone had the coating on their stock rotors flake off? I have two nice big patches of missing coating which was rattling around inside the stator. so i changed the rotor to high rpm I had before but want the stock rotor back. Will reedy replace this rotor quickly, or should i just stick it in a drill and sand off the coating?
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