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Old 10-02-2012, 11:03 AM   #481
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Originally Posted by 008-Racer View Post
008racer - sedan or 12th?
Sorry TC ;-)[/QUOTE]

Start @ 4.7 FDR, 40*. You'll probably want more gear, but best not to burn it up the first run
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Old 10-02-2012, 02:36 PM   #482
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Hi all, just have an issue with my 5.0T. After few runs, 2 race on carpet 2 race on asphalt, my motor decided not to run anymore. No problems with teperatures, always under 80C and run time for 6 mins. Opened the motor, sensor seemed to be ok, stator idem, but it doesen't work at all... We checked with a tester meter and it appear to be a stator problem, like a pole wrong connection, but i can't understand why...
This is the first time i've got a problem like this, what can i do? Is there stator in replacement?
Hope someone can help me. Thanks
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:24 PM   #483
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I'm having some trouble with my sonic as i can't push my motor as hard on timing and gearing as others without going to really high temp. Current setup on a mixed type track is 3.67 FDR and 41 degree timing and temp can go to 160f+ on a 85 ambient indoor track (west coast rc blink class) others can push 45+ and 3.5 FDR without reaching 160f on the same day. I do see an uneven wear on one of the shim so is it because of a unbalanced rotor?? or is it just my driving?
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Old 10-02-2012, 03:28 PM   #484
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Any recommendations for a sedan using a 13.5 in blinky. Gearing as well as timing.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:21 AM   #485
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Anyone have a suggestion on how to remove the small rear bearing and replace with the optional ceramic. I have a much more bearing remover that worked well for the front bearing. Concerned about damaging the circuit board surrounding the small rear bearing. Thanks
Any advice on replacing the rear bearing? ASC please help? I had no problem with removing the front bearing after heating the bearing housing to expand the alum...bearing basically falls right out. To avoid removal and insert problems in the future, I used a .4995 flute reamer to remove the anodising coating from the front casing which holds the front bearing... the allows the front bearing to be snug enough to hold in place, but easy enough to remove with a bearing tool without the need to heat the bearing housing. The reamer is slightly undersized to the outer diameter of the front bearing. (I've done this for years with brushed motors and never had a problem)

However, due to the circuit board on the rear bearing casing, I dare not try to heat the rear bearing casing and have yet to figure out a way to remove the bearing, let alone insert a new one... Has anyone had any success?
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:27 AM   #486
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Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
Any advice on replacing the rear bearing? ASC please help? I had no problem with removing the front bearing after heating the bearing housing to expand the alum...bearing basically falls right out. To avoid removal and insert problems in the future, I used a .4995 flute reamer to remove the anodising coating from the front casing which holds the front bearing... the allows the front bearing to be snug enough to hold in place, but easy enough to remove with a bearing tool without the need to heat the bearing housing. The reamer is slightly undersized to the outer diameter of the front bearing. (I've done this for years with brushed motors and never had a problem)

However, due to the circuit board on the rear bearing casing, I dare not try to heat the rear bearing casing and have yet to figure out a way to remove the bearing, let alone insert a new one... Has anyone had any success?
The rear is not as tight as the front. I think you can simply flung the bearing out a little bit first and then use a L shaped wrench to scoop it out. A least that's how mine went.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:27 PM   #487
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Originally Posted by Rouge711 View Post
Hi all, just have an issue with my 5.0T. After few runs, 2 race on carpet 2 race on asphalt, my motor decided not to run anymore. No problems with teperatures, always under 80C and run time for 6 mins. Opened the motor, sensor seemed to be ok, stator idem, but it doesen't work at all... We checked with a tester meter and it appear to be a stator problem, like a pole wrong connection, but i can't understand why...
This is the first time i've got a problem like this, what can i do? Is there stator in replacement?
Hope someone can help me. Thanks
i looked for a while when my 8.5t went out and ive asked here ether reedy doesnt make replacements or they just dont distribute them 17.5t is the only one ive found
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:19 PM   #488
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Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
Any advice on replacing the rear bearing? ASC please help? I had no problem with removing the front bearing after heating the bearing housing to expand the alum...bearing basically falls right out. To avoid removal and insert problems in the future, I used a .4995 flute reamer to remove the anodising coating from the front casing which holds the front bearing... the allows the front bearing to be snug enough to hold in place, but easy enough to remove with a bearing tool without the need to heat the bearing housing. The reamer is slightly undersized to the outer diameter of the front bearing. (I've done this for years with brushed motors and never had a problem)

However, due to the circuit board on the rear bearing casing, I dare not try to heat the rear bearing casing and have yet to figure out a way to remove the bearing, let alone insert a new one... Has anyone had any success?
Im sure you have a set of allen KEYS lying around, find one that just fits the inside the hole. Insert the allen key into the hole, and with the circuit board resting on something soft or placed on vice clamps resting the part of the circuit with nothing poking out on either of the two clamps(best i could do describing this, if you dont get it then just yell out and ill take a pic for you) once youve done that, just get a hammer and lightly tap on the end of the allen key and you should feel the bearing start to move, if it doesnt move at the start then give it a harder initial tap to remove it from its locked position and then continue to give it light taps to remove it completely. To get it back in, use a allen key that either fits the outer diameter of the bearing and tap it in, or use the same allen key that you used to remove it, this is so the allen key rests on a piece of the bearing that cant be squished or damaged(inner ring of bearing). Hope this helps. If you need pics just let me know.
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Old 10-28-2012, 07:51 PM   #489
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My motor tabs are loose. How do I fixis them? Or do I need to send it back? All three tabs are loose.
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:24 PM   #490
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Any recommendations for a sedan using a 13.5 in blinky. Gearing as well as timing.
4.2 fdr
38 timing
30 mm fan behind

Used at Iic.
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:27 PM   #491
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Any recommendations for a sedan using a 13.5 in blinky. Gearing as well as timing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tobyzhang View Post
I'm having some trouble with my sonic as i can't push my motor as hard on timing and gearing as others without going to really high temp. Current setup on a mixed type track is 3.67 FDR and 41 degree timing and temp can go to 160f+ on a 85 ambient indoor track (west coast rc blink class) others can push 45+ and 3.5 FDR without reaching 160f on the same day. I do see an uneven wear on one of the shim so is it because of a unbalanced rotor?? or is it just my driving?
Make sure your drivetrain is free.
Loosen belts if needed. Gears are meshed properly. Fan is working properly.
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Old 10-30-2012, 12:58 AM   #492
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On my reedy 17.5 if I just barely give it any throttle with the car on a stand it will make a weird grinding noise and the pinion will move slightly back and forth. When I say barely I mean a hair past neutral. Motor is extremely smooth elsewhere and performance is spot on. Is how it acts with barely any throttle normal? I've never really noticed it before as I have no reason to give it that little throttle.

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Reedy 17.5 max timing, 3.9 fdr with fan comes off at 165 after 6.5-7 minutes. 180 is the highest the motor has seen. Less than 20 packs through it.
Orion r10 pro drrs at 9 blinky. I've tried two different sensor wires and have re calibrated the esc. Thanks.
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:07 AM   #493
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I tried less timing and it still did the same thing. Less would be 40 degrees.
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:13 AM   #494
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
On my reedy 17.5 if I just barely give it any throttle with the car on a stand it will make a weird grinding noise and the pinion will move slightly back and forth. When I say barely I mean a hair past neutral. Motor is extremely smooth elsewhere and performance is spot on. Is how it acts with barely any throttle normal? I've never really noticed it before as I have no reason to give it that little throttle.

Yokomo bd7
Reedy 17.5 max timing, 3.9 fdr with fan comes off at 165 after 6.5-7 minutes. 180 is the highest the motor has seen. Less than 20 packs through it.
Orion r10 pro drrs at 9 blinky. I've tried two different sensor wires and have re calibrated the esc. Thanks.
have you tried backing the timing back to 40? is the problem still there?
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:44 AM   #495
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Has anyone ever tried a Reedy Sonic 10.5t boosted? Can this motor take boost well? I ask because my club wants to use this one as stock motor for the club championship without limiting the used escs. So everyone will run this motor boosted...
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