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Old 02-02-2012, 10:12 AM   #226
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does anyone have a FDR chart on the Reedy Sonics? I have an 8.5 (and need the FDR), but a chart of the entire line up would be great.

thanks,
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Old 02-03-2012, 09:40 AM   #227
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Default Bearing Tool for Sonic

Does anyone know of a Bearing removal tool that will work with the bearings in the Sonic?

I have a Muchmore bearing tool but it doesnt work with the size of bearings that the Sonic has.

Thanks.
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:38 AM   #228
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Hello,

Question for Rick.
Have you a starting setup for a Reedy Sonic 5.0 + LRP SXX V2 with 4.0 soft ?
Carpet track with 12s lap time.

12.2 or 12.5 mm rotor ?
Ratio ?
Motor Timing ?
Sxx setup ?

Thanks.
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Old 02-05-2012, 07:48 PM   #229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radwerx View Post
Does anyone know of a Bearing removal tool that will work with the bearings in the Sonic?

I have a Muchmore bearing tool but it doesnt work with the size of bearings that the Sonic has.

Thanks.

+1
also would like to know if there have been any bearing issues on this motor...i came from a d3 and this motor sounded strange after the 1st run, as it got progressively worse. i started changing spurs and pinions,when the motor then developed a severe vibration i tore it down and found the bearing in the sensor to be bad.
is there anything else i should be looking for that would cause a bearing to go bad so fast ? or just chalk it up to just an isolated problem ?
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:32 PM   #230
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My motor is one of the original cans and it has never given me a single issue. I've been running it in 1/12 13.5 blinky and this motor doesn't seem to give a hoot how high I roll out at. It just keeps on plugging. It doesn't object to a generous helping of timing at those higher rollouts either. Just a good, strong, smooth motor says I.
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Old 02-13-2012, 03:16 AM   #231
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Anyone managed to get their Sonic setup so it has a lot more rip out of the corners?
While mine seems to have pretty good speed it seems to lack some of the grunt out of the corners that motors like the x12's have.

Running with 2 notches of motor timing on the older style can the car's performance seemed very 'flat'. Once the timing was up to either 2.5 or 3 notches it started to come alive but still didn't quite have enough rip.
The following vid was with the timing at 2.5 notches geared at 7.4
Bare in mind this is the smallest track I race at and at some events this year I'll have to compete on tracks big enough for 1/5th scale nitro's.

Mine was dark grey car starting from pole in this race, sadly it was the B final ;
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Last edited by Skiddins; 02-13-2012 at 03:37 AM.
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:55 AM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Anyone managed to get their Sonic setup so it has a lot more rip out of the corners?
While mine seems to have pretty good speed it seems to lack some of the grunt out of the corners that motors like the x12's have.

Running with 2 notches of motor timing on the older style can the car's performance seemed very 'flat'. Once the timing was up to either 2.5 or 3 notches it started to come alive but still didn't quite have enough rip.
The following vid was with the timing at 2.5 notches geared at 7.4
Bare in mind this is the smallest track I race at and at some events this year I'll have to compete on tracks big enough for 1/5th scale nitro's.

Mine was dark grey car starting from pole in this race, sadly it was the B final ;
What motor are you using? boosted?

Lack of punch out of the corners can be a symptom of a battery that has lost its edge. What charger are you using? Do you know that actual battery voltage when you hit the track?
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:39 AM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
What motor are you using? boosted?

Lack of punch out of the corners can be a symptom of a battery that has lost its edge. What charger are you using? Do you know that actual battery voltage when you hit the track?
13.5 Boosted
Batteries are Thunder Power 40C & 65C
Thunder Power 610? charger
8.41V

The batteries have more rip when used with some other motors etc and they are in good condition.
When you see that video etc it looks pretty good, but once I have to compete against the guys at the top the slight lack of rip starts to show up.
Although a bigger more flowing track, the guys at the front in this are what I'm up against, again 13.5 boosted;
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


In boosted, do you have any recommendations for motor settings etc.
I have found that the 3rd notch (old style can) gives significantly more rip, when using 40-50deg timing on the ESC (true timing, not manufacturer BS)

When I have run with taller gearing before, 5.5FDR etc I found the motor temps were fine but it still seemed to be a bit flat, gearing lower and using more timing always seems to result in better performance.
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:52 AM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
13.5 Boosted
Batteries are Thunder Power 40C & 65C
Thunder Power 610? charger
8.41V

The batteries have more rip when used with some other motors etc and they are in good condition.
When you see that video etc it looks pretty good, but once I have to compete against the guys at the top the slight lack of rip starts to show up.
Although a bigger more flowing track, the guys at the front in this are what I'm up against, again 13.5 boosted;


In boosted, do you have any recommendations for motor settings etc.
I have found that the 3rd notch (old style can) gives significantly more rip, when using 40-50deg timing on the ESC (true timing, not manufacturer BS)

When I have run with taller gearing before, 5.5FDR etc I found the motor temps were fine but it still seemed to be a bit flat, gearing lower and using more timing always seems to result in better performance.
Depending on the rules you race under, you might be able to use another rotor. This motor comes with a "stock" rotor with 7.25mm inner diameter compared to a mod rotor with 5.0mm inner diameter. The mod rotor has more magnetic material which means you will get more power/punch.

If a mod rotor is legal, I would run it.
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:58 AM   #235
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Sadly we have to run to the BRCA list of motors, which means I can only use the 7.2mm rotor at sanctioned events.

Skiddins
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:52 AM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
Depending on the rules you race under, you might be able to use another rotor. This motor comes with a "stock" rotor with 7.25mm inner diameter compared to a mod rotor with 5.0mm inner diameter. The mod rotor has more magnetic material which means you will get more power/punch.

If a mod rotor is legal, I would run it.
I was thinking the reverse, 7.25 more torque than 5.0...
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Old 02-13-2012, 11:42 AM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
Sadly we have to run to the BRCA list of motors, which means I can only use the 7.2mm rotor at sanctioned events.

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Old 02-13-2012, 02:10 PM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manson View Post
I was thinking the reverse, 7.25 more torque than 5.0...
Afraid not, that dimension is the 'inside' measurment of the rotor, with the same 12.5mm outside etc, so put simply there is more magnetic material on the rotor.
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:30 PM   #239
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Anyone managed to get their Sonic setup so it has a lot more rip out of the corners?
I have the same issue running in a field full of trinity motors. With my RS w/222 software the lack of rip is more apparent. From what I have seen and driven this lack of rip is what everyone is talking about being a smooth motor. The Sonic is still able to keep up but you will have to get use to it. I guess that's the motors characteristics.
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Old 02-14-2012, 03:11 AM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goots View Post
I have the same issue running in a field full of trinity motors. With my RS w/222 software the lack of rip is more apparent. From what I have seen and driven this lack of rip is what everyone is talking about being a smooth motor. The Sonic is still able to keep up but you will have to get use to it. I guess that's the motors characteristics.
But that's the problem.

I will continue to see what settings I can change on my ESC (Black Diamond) and the motor to see if I can get any more from it.

With the Tekin, you can at least narrow the RPM start and finish to increase punch a bit.

Increasing the motor timing definitely helps with punch, but have to find the happy medium of ESC timing as well so I don't cook it.
Highest I've had the motor timing is the third notch but I'll try to go up to the 4th with a bit less on the ESC and see how it goes.

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