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Reedy Sonic

Old 01-07-2012, 03:50 AM
  #166  
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whats the stock rotor that comes with the 17.5?
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Old 01-07-2012, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by goots
whats the stock rotor that comes with the 17.5?
http://reedypower.com/products/details/956/
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Old 01-07-2012, 05:39 PM
  #168  
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Odd question for you Rick. I have two Sonic 17.5 motors. First one I bought has limited timing adjustment and runs awesome. I bought the V2 motor for the additional timing option. Problem with this motor is that it always smells like it's been overheated. Comes off the track between 140 and 160 but smells like it melted down. Runs good but not as quick as the other motor.
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Old 01-07-2012, 07:20 PM
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I have a new version and noted it smelled overheated also. Usually 140-155 range to.
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Old 01-07-2012, 08:14 PM
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Exclamation Rebuildable?

So are these motors rebuildable like the Novak Ballistic. In other words if I want to change the stator can I do it myself or do I have to have it done at Associated?
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Old 01-07-2012, 08:40 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by stiltskin
Odd question for you Rick. I have two Sonic 17.5 motors. First one I bought has limited timing adjustment and runs awesome. I bought the V2 motor for the additional timing option. Problem with this motor is that it always smells like it's been overheated. Comes off the track between 140 and 160 but smells like it melted down. Runs good but not as quick as the other motor.
Originally Posted by Brian L
I have a new version and noted it smelled overheated also. Usually 140-155 range to.
It is important to note that the latest version has a modified end plate with a repositioned pointer indicator. If you are running the same timing (indicator relative to the can screw) you are running too much timing. The new version should be set around 40-45 degrees.

Originally Posted by maxepower
So are these motors rebuildable like the Novak Ballistic. In other words if I want to change the stator can I do it myself or do I have to have it done at Associated?
The stator can be changed by yourself but we do not offer them separately yet.
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:02 PM
  #172  
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Timing is set at 40.
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:09 AM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart
It is important to note that the latest version has a modified end plate with a repositioned pointer indicator. If you are running the same timing (indicator relative to the can screw) you are running too much timing. The new version should be set around 40-45 degrees.
Thanks for the response Rick. I am aware of the added timing. I even swapped the plastic end cap from the old to the new to see where the pointer ends at full timing. I started at 40 degrees just like my current motor and gradually increased timing while checking temps. The motor never got hot and smelled odd from the very first run. I assumed that it was some kind of factory oil/lubricant that burns off after use. I'm very happy with my original motor. Several others have bought them since I started running it. Just curious why the second one smells so bad. I'm going to clean the motor and see if it goes away. Otherwise it will become a practice/backup motor. See you at the birds.
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Old 01-08-2012, 04:32 PM
  #174  
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I'm a little confused, the indicator 0-40 right to left, which end creates the most power 40 or 0?
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Old 01-08-2012, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by GreenSC10
I'm a little confused, the indicator 0-40 right to left, which end creates the most power 40 or 0?
What kind of 'power' are you looking for?

Although the relationship isn't always linear, the general rules of thumb are as follows:

Low timing = higher torque, lower rpm
High timing = lower torque, higher rpm

Most motors have somewhere around 28-30* of mechanical timing built into the design when the indicator is at the 0 or 'big line' reference mark, with somewhere between 4-8* for each line after that.

I believe somewhere on this thread the new scale and indicator of these motors indicate ACTUAL timing (although I may be wrong).

Edit: Found It!! (emphasis added)

Originally Posted by Sean Cochran
Just so everyone is aware the new scale is supposed to be ACTUAL degrees of timing. So if you are on 20 that means you have 20 degrees of timing in the motor.
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:10 PM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart
so it already comes with the high torque rotor.. Is there anyway to get more punch out of the motor?
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by goots
so it already comes with the high torque rotor.. Is there anyway to get more punch out of the motor?
What vehicle/setup are you running? The setup I posted last page for my touring car has all the rip in the world.
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:32 PM
  #178  
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This might be a stupid questions guys...
but this is my first brushless motor with adjustable timing...

does each line on the can represent 10degrees of timing?
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014
What vehicle/setup are you running? The setup I posted last page for my touring car has all the rip in the world.
17.5 boost TC. I tried lots of fdr's, from 5.6 - 6.3 just wished it was a little more punchy. My last thought would be going to a torque rotor but its been cleared that it already comes with it. Looks like ill just drive the way it is.
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Old 01-09-2012, 06:09 PM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by goots
17.5 boost TC. I tried lots of fdr's, from 5.6 - 6.3 just wished it was a little more punchy. My last thought would be going to a torque rotor but its been cleared that it already comes with it. Looks like ill just drive the way it is.
What esc/settings are you using?
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