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Old 12-28-2011, 07:55 PM   #151
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Just ordered a reedy sonic from A-Main for use in 21.5T Blinky racing...

Looking forward to strapping it in and getting some laps in
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Old 12-31-2011, 04:43 PM   #152
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any advice for my reedy 8.5t in a 2wd sc10??? where should I run the timing? also using a sxx stock spec V2 in blinky mode my gearing with a x12 8.5t with 4 dot timing was 84/19 I was coming off at 150 degrees... should I change my gearing? thanks for any help
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Old 01-01-2012, 11:50 AM   #153
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:06 PM   #154
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Ive decided to stick with one brand of motors (Reedy Sonic) as a means to minimize racing variables and find the optimal set-up for speed and torque between speed control and motor. Im using the new LRP SXX Stock Spec speedo for 1/12th scale 13.5 boosted.

What is the difference with the following Reedy Sonic rotors and when should someone switch out rotors? Also, could someone suggest a good brushless motor tuning machine? (and I thought brushless motors was suppose to spare us from the brushed motor tuning crap)

On the website the following are listed:
#954 Sonic Stock 12.3 x 24.2
#955 Sonic Stock 12.3 x 25
#956 Sonic Stock 12.5 x 25
These three (3) rotors all have same 7.25mm reference? what does this mean?

#957 Modified 12.2 x 25
# - Modified 12.5x25
These two (2) rotors all have the same 5.0mm reference? what does this mean?

How do the above differ from the #908 540 SL rotor?

At the track someone mentioned Reedy Sonic sell a rotor specifically for 1s racing? Cant seem to find it on the website? At a local track, Donnie Lea, ROAR national champion is having great success with the LRP SXX and LRP X12 motor combo.

Thanks for your help in advance.
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Old 01-02-2012, 07:37 PM   #155
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Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
Ive decided to stick with one brand of motors (Reedy Sonic) as a means to minimize racing variables and find the optimal set-up for speed and torque between speed control and motor. Im using the new LRP SXX Stock Spec speedo for 1/12th scale 13.5 boosted.

What is the difference with the following Reedy Sonic rotors and when should someone switch out rotors? Also, could someone suggest a good brushless motor tuning machine? (and I thought brushless motors was suppose to spare us from the brushed motor tuning crap)

On the website the following are listed:
#954 Sonic Stock 12.3 x 24.2
#955 Sonic Stock 12.3 x 25
#956 Sonic Stock 12.5 x 25
These three (3) rotors all have same 7.25mm reference? what does this mean?

#957 Modified 12.2 x 25
# - Modified 12.5x25
These two (2) rotors all have the same 5.0mm reference? what does this mean?

How do the above differ from the #908 540 SL rotor?

At the track someone mentioned Reedy Sonic sell a rotor specifically for 1s racing? Cant seem to find it on the website? At a local track, Donnie Lea, ROAR national champion is having great success with the LRP SXX and LRP X12 motor combo.

Thanks for your help in advance.
The 7.25mm/5.0mm is the ID of the shaft around the magnet. The mod rotors are smaller, so there is more magnet. For 1s racing, people at our track have been liking the 12.3x24.2 stock rotor. Doesnt fall off as hard later in the run.
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Old 01-04-2012, 10:36 PM   #156
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Can you tell a difference with a 17.5 in a tc car going from the stock rotor to a 12.5 rotor? ANd if so is it faster? etc? Thanks.

Last edited by Blitzrockey; 01-05-2012 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 01-05-2012, 03:01 AM   #157
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Can you tell a difference with a 17.5 in a tc car going from the stock rotor to a 12.5 mod rotor? ANd if so is it faster? etc? Thanks.
That would be illegal.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:10 AM   #158
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That would be illegal.
Ment to put stock 12.5

Last edited by Blitzrockey; 01-05-2012 at 02:28 PM.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:31 PM   #159
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Not real happy with my first experience with the reedy sonic or with the service department at associated. Apparently after 20+ years of racing I don't know how to tighten screws... Nor do the people building these motors. I bought a 10.5 to run in my short course truck and after one qualifier the motor came off at 180 which I thought was weird considering the 10.5 nemesis that I was running with the same gearing temped at 145. After further inspection I noticed that the timing was not set at the 0 mark. I grabbed the endbell and could physically move it. No biggy, I thought. Just set the timing back to 0 and tighten the screws that weren't tightened at the factory. Wrong!!! The next run the same thing happened again! Only this time the motor went into meltdown mode. So I sent it back. The tech guy tried to tell me that he tightened the screws down and it didn't move and they don't cover overheating..... I wonder if he was able to put it into a car and drive it to see if it would move after it was already melted?! I'm sure he knows how to do that too because I'm the dumb a$$ that hasn't learned lefty loosy righty tighty yet. smh
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:52 AM   #160
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Originally Posted by swrobel View Post
Not real happy with my first experience with the reedy sonic or with the service department at associated. Apparently after 20+ years of racing I don't know how to tighten screws... Nor do the people building these motors. I bought a 10.5 to run in my short course truck and after one qualifier the motor came off at 180 which I thought was weird considering the 10.5 nemesis that I was running with the same gearing temped at 145. After further inspection I noticed that the timing was not set at the 0 mark. I grabbed the endbell and could physically move it. No biggy, I thought. Just set the timing back to 0 and tighten the screws that weren't tightened at the factory. Wrong!!! The next run the same thing happened again! Only this time the motor went into meltdown mode. So I sent it back. The tech guy tried to tell me that he tightened the screws down and it didn't move and they don't cover overheating..... I wonder if he was able to put it into a car and drive it to see if it would move after it was already melted?! I'm sure he knows how to do that too because I'm the dumb a$$ that hasn't learned lefty loosy righty tighty yet. smh
The service guy should have given you a new motor if the problem was the endbell not being tightened or not being able to be tightened completely. A running change has been made to the design but you may have an old one. If you send me your address by PM I will send you a new motor.

BUT, 180 deg is not too hot for this motor. And different motor brands may require different gear ratios to achieve similar performance. So one motor running cooler than another at the same temp is not unexpected.
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:18 AM   #161
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Originally Posted by Rick Hohwart View Post
The service guy should have given you a new motor if the problem was the endbell not being tightened or not being able to be tightened completely. A running change has been made to the design but you may have an old one. If you send me your address by PM I will send you a new motor.

BUT, 180 deg is not too hot for this motor. And different motor brands may require different gear ratios to achieve similar performance. So one motor running cooler than another at the same temp is not unexpected.
Rick I really appreciate that! I try to only run lrp speedos and motors with the exception of my vta tc and if y'all made a vta speedo/motor combo that was allowed, I'd be running one of those too. I've never had a problem with ANY of my LRP electronics and I cringed when I was told I had to run a freakin' novak for vta... It's like a fire waiting to happen when you put one of those in your car.
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Old 01-06-2012, 03:33 PM   #162
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Originally Posted by swrobel View Post
Rick I really appreciate that! I try to only run lrp speedos and motors with the exception of my vta tc and if y'all made a vta speedo/motor combo that was allowed, I'd be running one of those too. I've never had a problem with ANY of my LRP electronics and I cringed when I was told I had to run a freakin' novak for vta... It's like a fire waiting to happen when you put one of those in your car.
Approved ESCs:USVTA
LRP
A.i. Brushless Reverse part numbers: LRP80100, LRP80150


no motor yet...

I just recieved my 17.5 Sonic, and this may have been answered, but Im running 4.0 fdr with AE TC6 with Novak GTB2 and Ballastic 17.5 w/ fan and time around 35, temps around 120 deg....

what would be a good starting point with my SXX v2 and 17.5 Sonic....with motor time and fdr...running Jaco Blues on 90 plus X 50 track?....

thanks
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Old 01-06-2012, 05:29 PM   #163
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Originally Posted by DARKSIDE View Post
Approved ESCs:USVTA
LRP
A.i. Brushless Reverse part numbers: LRP80100, LRP80150


no motor yet...

I just recieved my 17.5 Sonic, and this may have been answered, but Im running 4.0 fdr with AE TC6 with Novak GTB2 and Ballastic 17.5 w/ fan and time around 35, temps around 120 deg....

what would be a good starting point with my SXX v2 and 17.5 Sonic....with motor time and fdr...running Jaco Blues on 90 plus X 50 track?....

thanks
Start with the same FDR, and 35* on the can. I run 0-10-0-10 on my TC spec V2 (should be the same for the SXX. If its a stock spec, I run 0-0-0-7) Start adding gear and timing from there. On a smaller track than yours im running a 3.76, and 40* and come off at around 160 with a fan.
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:33 PM   #164
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Start with the same FDR, and 35* on the can. I run 0-10-0-10 on my TC spec V2 (should be the same for the SXX. If its a stock spec, I run 0-0-0-7) Start adding gear and timing from there. On a smaller track than yours im running a 3.76, and 40* and come off at around 160 with a fan.
I'm running a Tekin ESC but same 3.76 FDR and 40 degrees timing. Runs great on our 96x37 track.
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Old 01-06-2012, 07:04 PM   #165
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thanks Ill give it a try
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