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Old 09-15-2012, 07:03 PM   #76
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These are hands down the best fans I have used. 8cfm at 5v. They can handle battery voltage too no problem.

The part # is KDE0504PFV1.11.MS.A.GN
brand is Sunon.
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Old 09-15-2012, 09:59 PM   #77
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anyone know if them 3racing dual fans are decent
http://www.rcmart.com/3racing-3racmh...?cPath=1560_32
this one
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Old 09-15-2012, 11:39 PM   #78
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guys- make sure you know the rules of the events you are attending. often using two fans, or having a fan over 30mm is not allowed...
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Old 09-16-2012, 06:40 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by Shawn68z View Post
Freezing your motors is also against ROAR rules too. So I wouldnt be trying that at anything other then a club race.

Goto your electronic shop, and you can buy the Peltier CPU cooler really cheap. I paid $28, and if I forgot about it I had ice on my motor.


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ICE is NICE!

You can use a fan and a can of Dust Destroyer sprayed upside down.
I like to keep my motor really clean..
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Old 09-16-2012, 08:39 AM   #80
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Since you guys have so much time to test why don't you see what's most efficient . Fan heatsink, fan shroud pulling air thru the motor, fan shroud pushing air thru the motor .
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:29 PM   #81
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My TC season is now over so I have plenty of time to adress the cooling issue at my local track (with 2 fans and a heatsink temperatures around 100 degrees Celsius) . First of all, I have run my 2 fans this year at ESC voltage since that's what my friend (a very fast and experienced racer) told me, although they were 5V. It was running fine but after some time they both stopped working, luckily the last races of the season were at a technical track where overheating isn't an issue so I used no-name fans I had in my toolbox.

My main question is, do fans work much slower at 5V and what do you use and reccomend? I will try some non-RC manufacutrer fans from my local PC shop since I'm sure good ones can be found
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:37 AM   #82
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My main question is, do fans work much slower at 5V and what do you use and reccomend? I will try some non-RC manufacutrer fans from my local PC shop since I'm sure good ones can be found
If a fan is rated at 5V then it will be running at it's ideal voltage.
I tend to connect the 5V fans to a spare slot in the receiver, that way they are receiving slight;ly too much voltage, but not much.

I don't like connecting fans to the ESC power terminals as the voltage isn't stable during acceleration etc. This means a 5V fan will receive too higher voltage and a 12V too low.

Look at what voltage any fan you use is rated at what it's output (airflow) is.
Remember that a 12V fan will be running at most, 2/3 of it's full output.
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:50 AM   #83
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Just thought I would share something about fan cooling.

My personal way of deciding when I have pushed a motor too hard is to take note of when it goes soft. If it goes soft in a run, I know I'm geared/timed too high. So I take a step back from that.

I'm currently running a Vampire 17.5 in my car. At an outdoor meeting earlier, in the season, without a fan, the can temperature after a run was hitting 95C by the time the motor felt soft on the track.

I now have a serious fan on the car - 40mm diameter, 8.1CFM@5V, running from the receiver @6V. This fan blows grass through the back of the car when you pick it up. In one run, the motor went soft. I checked the can temps, and it was 70C.

Goes to show you might lose 20C+ on the can with a big fan, but you're not losing 20C+ on the rotor.
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:02 AM   #84
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If you can separate the stator from the can, use computer heatsink compound between the stator and the can, and then some more between the heatsink and the can, this has helped improve the efficiency of my Thunder Power.

I certainly agree that dropping the temp of the can alone is not a miracle cure. which is why I use a heatsink as well to try and dissipate as much heat straight after the race as well as during.

Did you measure the internal temps through the vent holes when the can had been cooled?
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:30 AM   #85
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If you can separate the stator from the can, use computer heatsink compound between the stator and the can, and then some more between the heatsink and the can, this has helped improve the efficiency of my Thunder Power.

I certainly agree that dropping the temp of the can alone is not a miracle cure. which is why I use a heatsink as well to try and dissipate as much heat straight after the race as well as during.

Did you measure the internal temps through the vent holes when the can had been cooled?
I can't remove the stator, I personally wouldn't stick thermal compound in there anyway, just not something I want to do to a motor.

Measuring internal temps with an IR Thermometer is not reliable. If I had a probe-type thermometer I could probably measure the rotor, but I don't - like I said, going soft is my measurement, can temp is my guide to how close I am to going soft - I now know that if the can is at 65C with the fan, I'm close to the limit, whereas before I knew that 90C was close to the limit.

As far as performance advantage of the big fan, hard to say as I am not comparing back-to-back on the same day. It certainly isn't a disadvantage, and if you have weight to make up, you may as well make some of it up with a fan.
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:48 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn68z View Post
Freezing your motors is also against ROAR rules too. So I wouldnt be trying that at anything other then a club race.

Goto your electronic shop, and you can buy the Peltier CPU cooler really cheap. I paid $28, and if I forgot about it I had ice on my motor.

Shawn
Wasn't the use of Peltiers harmful to BL motors ? I remember someone here (or8ital ?) experiencing a series of motor failure at his track, until the guys stopped using Peltiers.
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:01 AM   #87
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Wasn't the use of Peltiers harmful to BL motors ? I remember someone here (or8ital ?) experiencing a series of motor failure at his track, until the guys stopped using Peltiers.
Exactly. I'm not convinced that drawing moisture from the atmosphere into an electrical item before applying a voltage to it is particularly sensible...
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:26 AM   #88
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Quote:
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Wasn't the use of Peltiers harmful to BL motors ? I remember someone here (or8ital ?) experiencing a series of motor failure at his track, until the guys stopped using Peltiers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
Exactly. I'm not convinced that drawing moisture from the atmosphere into an electrical item before applying a voltage to it is particularly sensible...
The only part of a BL motor that doesn't 'mix' with water is the sensor board.
Sometimes a motor that has been cooled with a peltier cooler will have a lot of moisture build up on the sensor board.
I found that some motors stuttered when using that type of cooler.

If you waterproof the sensor board it will be fine.

Water on the main power connections or stator will do nothing as the voltage is too low, just keep it off the electronic circuit for the sensors.

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Old 12-13-2012, 03:32 AM   #89
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Anybody know if the Seis or Geisha fans are still available?
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:50 AM   #90
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Anybody know if the Seis or Geisha fans are still available?
http://www.sidepieceracing.com/products/seis/
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