rcja

iTrader: (5)

Why bother soldering to the esc? I have mine plugged into the reciever and it works fine. Just make sure you get a good fan, I tried 2 different fans from Yeah Racing, one came with a heatsink and didn't lower motor temp that much but when I switched to a Tornado it lowered temps by over 20 degrees.

anthonyscardina

iTrader: (12)

my windy works great with the yeah racing mount.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

Because it gives a higher voltage, and therefore spins faster. Plugging into the receiver runs it at BEC voltage, usually around 6V.

rline

Using a ORCA VX3 & Hobbywing V3.1 120amp.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

The fan/programming port on the Hobbywing V3.1 120A is at battery voltage, so just plug your fan directly in there. It's a bit easier than soldering.

rline

isn't the Programming port 6v output?

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Always better to wire to the battery +/- terminal. A stuck fan can short out your ESC..

Gero

In the past i used the MM fan mount with a 40mm WTF fan.
Switched now to the TECHRA fan Mount with a WTF WINDY and just can say WOW! A huge Differenz. I run my electronics on 7.4V BEC.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

It depends on the ESC, but the Hobbywing V3.1 120A is at battery voltage. I've got one and I've verified with my multimeter.

OttoKrosse

iTrader: (4)

Been running the same R1 fans on both cars (17.5 TC & 21.5 GT) for the last couple of years....year round, with summer time ambient temps hitting 110+ and they work great. have tried several brands like Muchmore, WTF and Yeah Racing and the R1 Wurks fans are by far the best of the ones I've tried.

Recently bought new fans for my Hobbywing V3.1 ESCs and went with the 25mm McClan, at 22,000 RPM and mounted on ball bearings they move some serious air. When my R1's finally give up the ghost I plan to buy the 30mm McClan fans as replacements since they too are mounted with ball bearings and have a high RPM output.

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

Bingo.

A fan creates some fairly dirty signals within the esc as well. Always better to isolate the fans when possible.

HugoW

Ehm, guys? Now I may suggest something really stupid, but I am going to anyway. At our club we run a 10.5T motors and we change the timing until it runs very fast and way too hot. So, we add fans to the motor, some so many I fear the car will levitate. Now all this modifying does mean the cars run fast, moving through the air quickly. Hey... Has anyone tried to open the grill hole in the front of the body, make (3D print, maybe) a nice duct and lead the incoming air to the motor? I know this might require opening the rear a little more to let the air out again, but do you think / know it will work? Requiring no fans, no power taken from the battery? Maybe only a heat sink on the motor? Or a hole in the wind screen if we want to keep the front in tact for grip.

Cheers,

Hugo

Skiddins

Most rule sets ban adding any additional holes.
There is also the issue that by opening the front of the body you are going to help ruin the bodies handling as the air no longer flows correctly over the front.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

I've seen it done, back before doing this was banned in most rulesets.

HugoW

Ah, OK, my club rules don't state that but I understand what you mean on the air flow. However, the MacLan fans for instance take 0,5A which is considerable. I think that will influence voltage and voltage drop during the heat, which both will have negative influence on the overall heat performance. I might add solar panels to the car's roof to power the fan. Oh, wait, in the Netherlands we don't have sun shine. Bummer... Still I think we should to something with air flow.

Hugo