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Old 03-01-2014, 02:41 AM   #316
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Just wondering what type of foams you would use on carpet on the front and rear i.e soft, medium, hard or a shore rated type foam for the f110

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Old 03-02-2014, 08:42 PM   #317
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For carpet , tamiya foam type A front and Rear is the good choice
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Old 04-26-2014, 08:41 PM   #318
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I know some of you guys mentioned enlarging holes on spur to accomodate the 1/8" diff balls. Now I have tried 4 different brands of spurs. Only Precision racing ones fit. Serpent stock spurs, either 64P or 48P cannot take 1/8" balls. Holes are way too small. The diameter of the holes is 3.14mm and the balls are 3.17mm. And the holes taper so that the other side of spur has smaller holes. WHAT THE HECK AM I DOING WRONG? It seems that the holes on the spur would take 3mm balls. Why would anybody else not have problems with this? Why would Serpent put 1/8" balls if their own spurs don't take them?
From my understanding, the balls should go in smoothly when they are pushed into the holes right? And when you shake the spur, the balls should easily fall off.
Please advise.
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Old 04-27-2014, 12:40 AM   #319
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Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
I know some of you guys mentioned enlarging holes on spur to accomodate the 1/8" diff balls. Now I have tried 4 different brands of spurs. Only Precision racing ones fit. Serpent stock spurs, either 64P or 48P cannot take 1/8" balls. Holes are way too small. The diameter of the holes is 3.14mm and the balls are 3.17mm. And the holes taper so that the other side of spur has smaller holes. WHAT THE HECK AM I DOING WRONG? It seems that the holes on the spur would take 3mm balls. Why would anybody else not have problems with this? Why would Serpent put 1/8" balls if their own spurs don't take them?
From my understanding, the balls should go in smoothly when they are pushed into the holes right? And when you shake the spur, the balls should easily fall off.
Please advise.
Yep it's a known issue. I had same with my kit but don't worry. Just use a taper reamer to take a little material from both sides of the hole and then the fit is perfect. It's literally just a small amount to remove. Alternatively if you have a 1/8'' straight reamer than would be even better.
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Old 04-29-2014, 04:23 PM   #320
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Yep it's a known issue. I had same with my kit but don't worry. Just use a taper reamer to take a little material from both sides of the hole and then the fit is perfect. It's literally just a small amount to remove. Alternatively if you have a 1/8'' straight reamer than would be even better.
I was able to enlarge the holes with my drummel tool. How do you know the hole size is perfect? You can only do so much with your eyeballing and tapered reamer unless you use straight one like you suggested?
It's just that I don't have any previous experience with ball diff so I don't know how free of the balls is optimal. Thanks Dan,
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Old 04-29-2014, 05:44 PM   #321
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Can anyone tell me the purpose for the washers beneath the side links? Every other link car doesn't have washers in that location.

How will removing them effect the handling? Lower rear roll center or something?
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Old 04-29-2014, 05:56 PM   #322
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Can anyone tell me the purpose for the washers beneath the side links? Every other link car doesn't have washers in that location.

How will removing them effect the handling? Lower rear roll center or something?
It will make the mid section of the car sink more easily on brakes/off throttle if you remove the shims under the springs only. It has similar kinetics as pro/anti dives. If the middle sinks more easily off throttle/brakes, I guess the rear traction decreases. But I can be wrong. The mechanical settings for F1 is a lot more complicated and people have very different opinions on things. Am I wrong guys?
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Old 04-30-2014, 05:05 AM   #323
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I was able to enlarge the holes with my drummel tool. How do you know the hole size is perfect? You can only do so much with your eyeballing and tapered reamer unless you use straight one like you suggested?
It's just that I don't have any previous experience with ball diff so I don't know how free of the balls is optimal. Thanks Dan,
To be honest I didn't really worry too much about the hole size being totally exact. I removed material little by little until the balls JUST slip through.
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:22 AM   #324
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Can anyone tell me the purpose for the washers beneath the side links? Every other link car doesn't have washers in that location.

How will removing them effect the handling? Lower rear roll center or something?
I omitted them. The pod doesn't move freely with the shims because the 3 pivot points (including center pivot) are not in line.

Disclaimer: I have not run the car yet.
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:13 PM   #325
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Has anyone tried the wide front end? It seems the stock setup is only ~182mm with Tamiya rims and Pit tires. Alternatively, are there rims with different offsets available?
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Old 05-01-2014, 12:09 AM   #326
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I thought the wide front end was for using foam rubber tyres? I haven't tried it personally as it's all normal rubber tyres here...
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Old 05-01-2014, 10:25 AM   #327
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I think typically there are 200mm and 190mm rule sets. We're running 190mm, so I would like the car to actually be 190mm. If the wide front end is +10mm, then it might be pretty close.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:05 PM   #328
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I omitted them. The pod doesn't move freely with the shims because the 3 pivot points (including center pivot) are not in line.

Disclaimer: I have not run the car yet.
Can you elaborate a bit? You mean the 3 points being both ends of side link and the pod connector?
I thought the reason of the shim is to make the links move more freely side to side. But again, like the other guy said, F110 seems to be the only one that uses shims under the links. So I don't know LOL
BTW, Steve, I didn't know there are two different rule sets for different front track widths. That's crazy.. I sort of noticed that 3racing and speed passion cars have a lot wider front track width than F110. Maybe that's why mine lacks steering? I haven't really settled down my car yet due to various reasons so I can't really blame the track width but the front end feels really stiff when I push it down. I tried Tamiya softest springs too but doesn't feel much different. I just ordered RIDE soft/soft tires hoping it would make more steering. Now I'm using 71/72 Shimitzu tires.
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:54 PM   #329
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Can you elaborate a bit? You mean the 3 points being both ends of side link and the pod connector?
I thought the reason of the shim is to make the links move more freely side to side. But again, like the other guy said, F110 seems to be the only one that uses shims under the links. So I don't know LOL
BTW, Steve, I didn't know there are two different rule sets for different front track widths. That's crazy.. I sort of noticed that 3racing and speed passion cars have a lot wider front track width than F110. Maybe that's why mine lacks steering? I haven't really settled down my car yet due to various reasons so I can't really blame the track width but the front end feels really stiff when I push it down. I tried Tamiya softest springs too but doesn't feel much different. I just ordered RIDE soft/soft tires hoping it would make more steering. Now I'm using 71/72 Shimitzu tires.
Yeah, the pod connector and the side link pivots should all be in line I think. If you imagine the 3 pivots in a straight line then the pod can pivot around that line, like a hinge (talking up and down movement here). But if the 3 pivots are not in line, then they form a triangle and it can't pivot without something flexing or breaking. There's a little bit of give and stretch in the side links so it still moves, but it's not as free as it could be. Maybe it's by design, but it seems weird.
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Old 05-03-2014, 07:35 PM   #330
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Mine came out to 184mm. With a little camber it adds a few mm. The Pit sidewalls hang over the edge a few mm. Exotech make +3mm rims. I wonder if those and some shims you could get it out to 190. The F104 and Speedpassion cars are actually 185mm.
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