Meltdown question
#1
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
Meltdown question
I am melting solder connections.
Stuck with a 430 ratio rear end I have a 3.5 10,500 Kv ballistic Novak motor with a 13mm sintered rotor in a dragster.
It has a 4300 mah 65C Thunder Power LiPo battery.
2.4" diameter tires are the shortest I can run "if" I go 12th scale.
2.71" is where im at now.
The Novak motor comes set at 30 degrees advance.
My question is if I back off to 15 or even 0 degrees do you think it will help my overload problem?
I was thinking that and programing the Mamba Max Pro to sensored only and
23 degrees in cheat mode to come in at 23,000 rpm for after six foot as the meltdown occurs at launch.
Harder tires and a narrow width is what I might also try.
So far I have melted a power wire solder connection to the ESC and a battery wire solder inside the hard case.
Any ideas?
Stuck with a 430 ratio rear end I have a 3.5 10,500 Kv ballistic Novak motor with a 13mm sintered rotor in a dragster.
It has a 4300 mah 65C Thunder Power LiPo battery.
2.4" diameter tires are the shortest I can run "if" I go 12th scale.
2.71" is where im at now.
The Novak motor comes set at 30 degrees advance.
My question is if I back off to 15 or even 0 degrees do you think it will help my overload problem?
I was thinking that and programing the Mamba Max Pro to sensored only and
23 degrees in cheat mode to come in at 23,000 rpm for after six foot as the meltdown occurs at launch.
Harder tires and a narrow width is what I might also try.
So far I have melted a power wire solder connection to the ESC and a battery wire solder inside the hard case.
Any ideas?
Last edited by dennisnielsen; 06-08-2011 at 12:01 AM.
#2
I understand there are different grades of solder available with different melting temperatures.
Maybe look into this.
Maybe look into this.
#3
Very simple:
1. The solder comes loose because the solder joint were of bad quality. Resolder decently.
2. The solder comes loose because you are drawing too much current.
Then its your setup... and yes, putting the timing lower will help a lot.
In your dragster, are you running 2S? Is it obligated?
I would go with higher voltage, higher turn motor...
1. The solder comes loose because the solder joint were of bad quality. Resolder decently.
2. The solder comes loose because you are drawing too much current.
Then its your setup... and yes, putting the timing lower will help a lot.
In your dragster, are you running 2S? Is it obligated?
I would go with higher voltage, higher turn motor...
#4
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
Feedback
Very simple:
1. The solder comes loose because the solder joint were of bad quality. Resolder decently.
2. The solder comes loose because you are drawing too much current.
Then its your setup... and yes, putting the timing lower will help a lot.
In your dragster, are you running 2S? Is it obligated?
I would go with higher voltage, higher turn motor...
1. The solder comes loose because the solder joint were of bad quality. Resolder decently.
2. The solder comes loose because you are drawing too much current.
Then its your setup... and yes, putting the timing lower will help a lot.
In your dragster, are you running 2S? Is it obligated?
I would go with higher voltage, higher turn motor...
Do you think it would be a slug were I to change out the stator to Novak's 5.5T/7400 Kv?
I could go with the 4.5T/9000Kv.
BTW
Thank you for the input
#5
Tech Master
I'd also put a large capacitor bank on the esc if you can to help manage current spike, and if you can, have a current limiter set on the esc.
I know it will make the launch softer having the limiter, but at least you will finish!
I know it will make the launch softer having the limiter, but at least you will finish!
#6
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
Have two of Novak's best already installed
#7
Tech Master
That is a fantastic looking chassis. Almost makes me want to try drag.
#8
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
#9
2 fine looking machines m8!
I personally dont think a 4.5 can run at 3S, these make way too much RPM's.
They're gonne blow out at some point.
Why dont you inform yourself at the manufacturer of the cars what equipment they mostly use?
I personally dont think a 4.5 can run at 3S, these make way too much RPM's.
They're gonne blow out at some point.
Why dont you inform yourself at the manufacturer of the cars what equipment they mostly use?
#10
From what I see itīs even a 3.5T motor and I also think this doesnīt work out.
With roadcourse racing here I have even seeing 4.5T motors on 2S melting the solderjoints if the timing or rollout isnīt what should be used.
I know some people have gone with some very large 6mm or even 8mm connectors for this reason but in your case I think your melting the motor then.
With roadcourse racing here I have even seeing 4.5T motors on 2S melting the solderjoints if the timing or rollout isnīt what should be used.
I know some people have gone with some very large 6mm or even 8mm connectors for this reason but in your case I think your melting the motor then.
#11
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
Fix?
Thanks everyone for all the input.
I have some 12th scale hubs and tires coming to get my roll out just right at 2.47" diameter.
This way I wont have all wheel and no tire and the 12th will grow some on the far end and act somewhat like a two speed rearend.
Going to find out in Houston on the 18th just how it works out.
I have some 12th scale hubs and tires coming to get my roll out just right at 2.47" diameter.
This way I wont have all wheel and no tire and the 12th will grow some on the far end and act somewhat like a two speed rearend.
Going to find out in Houston on the 18th just how it works out.
#12
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
Baseline
Talked to Charlie at Novak.
He said I was headed in the right direction by the tire change and backing off on the physical motor timing setting on the motor itself "not ESC".
I programed my Castle ECS settings start power to high and the CHEAT timing boost amount to 23 degrees at an activation range of
23,100 to 37,700 rpm.
If all else fails..... I will install the free 4.5 stators Drag Race Concepts sent me and start running a new base line.
My 1000 horse power blown & squeezed full scale street El Camino was easier for me to tune.
He said I was headed in the right direction by the tire change and backing off on the physical motor timing setting on the motor itself "not ESC".
I programed my Castle ECS settings start power to high and the CHEAT timing boost amount to 23 degrees at an activation range of
23,100 to 37,700 rpm.
If all else fails..... I will install the free 4.5 stators Drag Race Concepts sent me and start running a new base line.
My 1000 horse power blown & squeezed full scale street El Camino was easier for me to tune.