I'm running a T3r. Shocks are plastic, and there's no need to change them. You will probably want turnbuckles, but other wise it should be just fine.
Here's the T3'11 conversion #300945-L
It is intended to convert a T3 '10 to an '11 though so it only includes the top and bottom CF, the lipo holders and the steering system. You will still have the FRP shock towers, aluminum cvd's, older style c-hubs, composite rear diff outdrives, deep-dish shock bladders, and of course the silver bulkheads and aluminum parts.
Is it good? Oh, yeah!
I prefer to drill the shock caps to relieve the pressure above the bladder with a 1 mm drill bit. Makes the shocks easier to get even with little rebound. Double check the screws going into the aluminum after each run the first few outings. Set the shocks to 63 mm long all around.
For our track I am running
2.5 r camber
1 f camber
5 mm RH
arms full back
6 droop front
5.5 droop rear
3 r toe
0 f toe
short ackerman setting
1 hole away from layed down on the tower in the rear
middle tower hole in front
Come see me once you get it all together and we'll get it spot on.
"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." -Henry Ford
"[Driving] Genius is 1% inspiration, and 99% perspiration" -T.A. Edison
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