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Old 05-27-2011, 05:44 PM   #16
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collision at full speed... I-I s-ubu-said collision at full speed there!

I was driving around in the street... last run of the day! my bro decided to come out and drive his Emaxx in the street with me... (his only car)
he has the same radio frequency. I had been meaning to ask him, but I kept forgetting. if he would have walked all the way to the street, I would have asked him, but he was behind me where I didn't notice...
he turned on his transmitter right as I started a full speed pass back towards my direction. I probably lost contlrol right as I hit top speed, but didn't notice because the steering wasn't glitching or anything and I was driving straight.
well, I try to turn, and nothing happens, then the steering glitches, still at full speed, straight into the curb on the other side of the street...
now by this time I knew I lost it, and I had dropped my transmitter and was running after the car, while a real car was now turning dpwn my street... the 4tec was doing doughnuts and ricocheting off the curbs and just going BERZERK...
then it just stopped, like nothing had ever happened.
I shoved my arm up inside the shell and yanked the battery cable off, I think I broke my solder joint, oh well, I can fix it... one of the collisions also snapped the little banana plug for the balance cable in the middle of my lipo...

survey of the damage after several full speed front-on collisions with the curb:
*aesthetic body damage, creases and scuffs
*front right body post is slightly bent
*bent front body pins
*broken banana plug

the thing IS a tank. end of story.
scared the pants off me though! i thought it was a gonner

kinda pissed overall... I had a bad day, and this was not a nice ending. at least nothing expensive broke! I can always just re-solder the broken stuff... I went to go do that a little while ago, but I AM OUT OF SOLDER.
jeese, one thing after another...
"Let's go racing" I said.

Last edited by User Unrelated; 05-27-2011 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 05-28-2011, 06:13 AM   #17
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Default belts

before the belts break, take them off from the car, measure the width, they should 3 mm or 4mm, then count how many tooth does it have. usualy the belts are S3M belts that means 3mm pitch. For my car the kawada, the rear belt is S3M 171 , the 171 denotes the length, when you divide 171 with 3(pitch) you will get 57 tooth..so lets say you count your rear belt 59 tooth, just multiply by 3 you will get the length, ususally you just have to mention the belt type (S3M) and either the number of tooth or the length, and then tell them what width you want. i recommend 3mm width becuase they are narrow and have less friction that 4mm width.
kawada sv10 alcyon 3-sanwa mx3x-orca vx v4.1 software-team powers 13.5 motor-turnigy 4200 shorty lipo-savox 1251 servo RIDE RE32
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Old 05-28-2011, 08:00 PM   #18
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what sort of places can make these belts then? I am truly intrigued.
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