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Old 01-29-2012, 04:52 PM   #1456
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Originally Posted by kneedeeppow View Post
i cant wait to beat the **** out of my rabbit. but even corner i come to during the build there is a road block. this chassis just doesnt want to be finished haha. after ginding down the motor mount,then the motor siffner thingy,re position the body posts to fit motor the list goes on. i got(thought i got)cunning and was going to use a 104 esc tray to mount electrics buuuuuuuuuut after mounting it all up i find the body doesnt fit over the esc shelf aaarrrrrggggghhhhh i dont trust mounting the esc to the 12mm of chassis plate either side of the battery so it goes on the shelf awaiting more cunning plans i cant wait to drive this thing,all you guys sound like your having waaay to much fun with yours

anyone have any thoughts re diff oil for low grip ashphelt?

i have used shimizu in the past and like their product but i have not tried the hpi bridgestone tire. i see there is a option rear soft, what is the d compound aimed at?

cheers

i ran on low grip Asphalt all day today and smashed every 104/103 to bits!! they just simply do not have the traction of the FGX, as a matter of fact one of the guys ran foams on his 104p and still could nat beat my best time on rubbers! he put rubbers on and wasnt within 2 seconds of my laptimes!!

Here is my tip for the asphalt, its all about the dif, i removed all of the spider gear shims and one of the sun gear shims on both sides and filled the dif with 55wt oil, it is butta smooth with superb entry steering and a slight drift on exit with out diffing out (not enough traction, plus sway bars). Stock springs in the rear -1* camber and 2* toe block. on the front i use the soft springs (have softer ones coming) with 1mm of droop. i also tested my upper deck stiffner and it worked superb, actually maybe too good as i lost some steering in general but the car was more stable, and not as twitchy as it was.
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:28 PM   #1457
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the motor mount needed grinding out to fit a 30+ pinion,alot of grinding. i am using speedpassion motors so the post had to move and the motor stiffner needed reshaping. the first photos i saw of these conversions(way back on p47 from memory) the motor pod looked super spacious but i guess the motor that chap was using must have been a tiny a#$ small 21.5.
anywho,cant wait to drive this thing. put about an hour and a half on my 104 rubber car today and it was hummin,bring on the fgxr

looking for m2.6x10 screws for the diff on the fgx. the guy at the screw shop laughed at me this morning. would 3racing have them as a seperate item?
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:21 PM   #1458
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Originally Posted by kneedeeppow View Post
the motor mount needed grinding out to fit a 30+ pinion,alot of grinding. i am using speedpassion motors so the post had to move and the motor stiffner needed reshaping. the first photos i saw of these conversions(way back on p47 from memory) the motor pod looked super spacious but i guess the motor that chap was using must have been a tiny a#$ small 21.5.
anywho,cant wait to drive this thing. put about an hour and a half on my 104 rubber car today and it was hummin,bring on the fgxr

looking for m2.6x10 screws for the diff on the fgx. the guy at the screw shop laughed at me this morning. would 3racing have them as a seperate item?
had same issue a while back, if you search on ebay - M2.6x10 you will find a stack of places that have them. As im in Aust where i got them may not be useful
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:33 PM   #1459
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Originally Posted by kneedeeppow View Post
the motor mount needed grinding out to fit a 30+ pinion,alot of grinding. i am using speedpassion motors so the post had to move and the motor stiffner needed reshaping. the first photos i saw of these conversions(way back on p47 from memory) the motor pod looked super spacious but i guess the motor that chap was using must have been a tiny a#$ small 21.5.
anywho,cant wait to drive this thing. put about an hour and a half on my 104 rubber car today and it was hummin,bring on the fgxr

looking for m2.6x10 screws for the diff on the fgx. the guy at the screw shop laughed at me this morning. would 3racing have them as a seperate item?
Ok. I see now. I am just using the mount that was included with the rabbit. Did you run the stiffener before? Did it seem to make a difference in handling or is it strictly to reinforce the motor area? Wondering if this piece will reduce chassis flex.
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Old 01-30-2012, 12:37 AM   #1460
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Default What Front Arms?

In Badman's post pic 4. What front arms are these?
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:12 AM   #1461
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Here is my tip for the asphalt, its all about the dif, i removed all of the spider gear shims and one of the sun gear shims on both sides and filled the dif with 55wt oil, it is butta smooth with superb entry steering and a slight drift on exit with out diffing out (not enough traction, plus sway bars). Stock springs in the rear -1* camber and 2* toe block. on the front i use the soft springs (have softer ones coming) with 1mm of droop. i also tested my upper deck stiffner and it worked superb, actually maybe too good as i lost some steering in general but the car was more stable, and not as twitchy as it was.
hello
so the kit oil is 2000 and you use 55,i am confuse. why are the number so great in difference?

thanks
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:13 AM   #1462
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Default Skunk Works FGX

Prototype Rev 1.1
Test Day 2 Timezone Winter Series.

Today was a pretty good day. I am still learning this car as this was the 3rd time I have ran an F1 car. The car is still fighting to much traction in the rear with the Shimizu Soft Ribs. It is a fine line between a push and traction rolls as you add neg camber and sauce more or less of the fronts. Next week I will have the rear anti roll bar which should help. Trying to get this car to rotate quickly with out lifting is a challenge. I also have some Ride Medium Slick rears coming just to try.

I ended up 3rd today overall with a 5th, 3rd, and 2nd in the triple ten minute mains. Not to bad considering my Duo 3 has seen 230+ and is coming off at 210. I have a new Revtech on the way.

By the third main the car was actually pretty damn good but I faded pretty bad and couldn't catch Mark for 1st. In the third main I tried adding reactive caster to the front. This worked very well and seem to calm the car down under hard breaking turns. The way I have the front suspension mount block allows you to raise or lower the front arms relative to stock. I raised the back of the arms 3mm thus reducing caster as the suspension compresses but maintaining caster on power. This is definitely a good selling feature.

Another good selling feature is NO BROKEN PARTS! Multiple top decks, front arms, lower arms, etc. were all broke today by others. I did not break anything. Even though I am still testing everyone seems to want prototype top decks as fast as I can get them. I am very happy with the durability the top deck adds as I took some very hard hits and rolls into barriers. At one point I slammed nose first into another car who turned in early and nothing. Last thing I am not having any tweak issues. Mark's car seems to hold a tweak and he has to loosen all the screws and straighten it out throughout the day.

Next:
I hope to have Rev 2.0 on the track Thursday. This will include the two piece top deck and a new bulkhead behind the steering to reduce the front end flex.

Troy
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:20 AM   #1463
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Originally Posted by Troy Mckune View Post
In Badman's post pic 4. What front arms are these?
Right .. 3 racing front arms for F103. Very fragile around the camber adjustment screw. http://www.rcmart.com/rc-f103gt-3rac...m-p-23288.html

Left .. not sure exactly what these arms are. GPM have released a couple of versions over the years and they could be an older version of their current product.. http://gpmracing.com.hk/catalog/prod...roducts_id=859

They are both based on the Tamiya link type front suspension for the F103.
http://www.rcmart.com/rc-f103-tamiya...n-p-28971.html
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Old 01-30-2012, 02:09 AM   #1464
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Aren't they from the 103GT?

The ones from the F109 seemed like a great idea, but their plastic is so soft that they don't stay together well.
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Old 01-30-2012, 08:05 AM   #1465
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Originally Posted by freakyfreakyflo View Post
hello
so the kit oil is 2000 and you use 55,i am confuse. why are the number so great in difference?

thanks
the kit doesnt really have a setup its just put together. We have no idea what kind of track conditions they used. The higher you go in dif oil the less turn in you will have and that is the problem with loose asphalt (asphalt in general). Since traction is at a minimum you dont have to worry about "diffing out" because there is not enough traction to roll the car and lift the inside rear tire. I have been running my own IRS for almost two years now and it reacts the same way. Thicker dif oil gives the car less turn in and push on power on exit, i dont like either one! Throw in the fact that the chassis layout is like a bannana (long and narrow) which pushes by nature, you need all the steering you can get! Try it and see, you got nothing to lose except time!
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:37 PM   #1466
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx View Post
Here is my tip for the asphalt, its all about the dif, i removed all of the spider gear shims and one of the sun gear shims on both sides and filled the dif with 55wt oil, it is butta smooth with superb entry steering and a slight drift on exit with out diffing out
.

I've not had a lot to do with gear diffs, so could you show me what you mean by removing the spider gear and one sun gear shim o both sides. Are they replaced once you change the diff oil weight, or left out all together.

Thank you
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Old 01-30-2012, 01:43 PM   #1467
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.

I've not had a lot to do with gear diffs, so could you show me what you mean by removing the spider gear and one sun gear shim o both sides. Are they replaced once you change the diff oil weight, or left out all together.

Thank you
to me with all of the shims installed the dif was not smooth and "bound " up a little, just wasnt smooth like it should be. There are four shims that go on the four spider gears and six that go on the sun gears. i removed the four spider gear shims and 1 on each of the sun gears and left them out. we run 21.5 which is not enough power to break the spider gears and its holding up fine so far.
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Old 01-30-2012, 02:58 PM   #1468
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to me with all of the shims installed the dif was not smooth and "bound " up a little, just wasnt smooth like it should be. There are four shims that go on the four spider gears and six that go on the sun gears. i removed the four spider gear shims and 1 on each of the sun gears and left them out. we run 21.5 which is not enough power to break the spider gears and its holding up fine so far.
that's for that information. I'll give that a go as I run low grip outdoors and would like all the help I can get to make it better.
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Old 01-30-2012, 03:10 PM   #1469
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As Troy mentioned we had another round of our winter series yesterday and had 10 FGX's on the track, no shortage of broken lower front arms (the back arm) but donít think any of them were reinforced, and another top deck, but I will say I had plenty of hits and taps with stock lower arms and top deck and came through the day un-broken.

Also as Troy said I battled a car that would hold a tweak to the right just a minute or two into the race.... was a pain to drive.. took a closer look this morning and noticed plenty of slightly loose screws in the chassis, I really put the torque to them and went through the rest of the car, threw it down this morning to multiple 14.8's Iím coming for ya Rick

I still think the key is going to be Troy's stuff which will provide a solid flat and stable chassis and top deck with some flex to it I think we need the car to flex a bit and let that inside tire get a bit light and the car to rotate, but a predictable consistent flex that you can count on in every turn.

I did get a fan in my car this weekend and it seemed to shed at least 20 to 30degrees keeping me under 150 after our 10min mains.


Love this Car....
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Old 01-30-2012, 04:18 PM   #1470
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Yeh, you get 10 F1 cars on the track with a highly competitive bunch of drivers, you get a whole load of development. Fantastic day at TZ, seeing all hands on deck making the micro seconds drop. I went faster than ever, hitting a 15.1 in quallie time, then blew a 14,9 in the second main. Bitten badly by traction rolling and managed to disintegrate a lower front arm dammit. Think Troy's work will yield the stable platform Mark talks of, then we're all off to the races again for the next .01/sec.

Such fun for so little dollars.............

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