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Old 01-22-2012, 11:29 AM   #1351
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Since were on the topic of setup any tips on getting the inside front tire to stay on the ground? I run on a high traction track and I can't keep the tire down no matter how stiff things are. Here's the setup that worked best for the tire but now it traction rolls. Roll being caused by the outside front tire.

Front tires tamiya medium
Rear tires hpi Bridgestone medium
Stiffest rear sway bar
1 degree rear toe
0 degrees front toe
0 degrees rear camber
80 wt shock oil
Stiffest tamiya f201 rear springs
Stiffest front springs
1mm droop

The car is about as stiff as I can get it. The softer it is the more the tire lifts. Could this be strictly a tire issue? If so which shimizu tires should I run on high traction carpet?
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:53 PM   #1352
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Broke the new improved upper and a lower yesterday. Again wasn't a solid hit, just a angled bump. Don't know when I did it actually, I never did anything more than a medium speed rub. Maybe I will get the Rabbit. Or maybe trade it in. I know that I wouldn't break anything if I stayed clean. But that's not going to happen 90% of the time. I didn't reinforce the arms, and 2nd guessing, I should have. But the fact of the matter is that they just don't give any, they just break. IF its not one thing its another. I'm going to give the FGX a rest for awhile. I still like the idea, and the car itself, but Ive got 4 other cars to jack with. Including 2 more F1s. I got plenty to play with til Im ready for the FGX again. By then maybe some A+ upgrades will be available. See you in 2 days. I cant stay away from it very long I'm sure
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:54 PM   #1353
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Since were on the topic of setup any tips on getting the inside front tire to stay on the ground? I run on a high traction track and I can't keep the tire down no matter how stiff things are. Here's the setup that worked best for the tire but now it traction rolls. Roll being caused by the outside front tire.

Front tires tamiya medium
Rear tires hpi Bridgestone medium
Stiffest rear sway bar
1 degree rear toe
0 degrees front toe
0 degrees rear camber
80 wt shock oil
Stiffest tamiya f201 rear springs
Stiffest front springs
1mm droop

The car is about as stiff as I can get it. The softer it is the more the tire lifts. Could this be strictly a tire issue? If so which shimizu tires should I run on high traction carpet?
Shimizus bounce too, soft and med grooved.
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:55 PM   #1354
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Broke the new improved upper and a lower yesterday. Again wasn't a solid hit, just a angled bump. Don't know when I did it actually, I never did anything more than a medium speed rub. Maybe I will get the Rabbit. Or maybe trade it in. I know that I wouldn't break anything if I stayed clean. But that's not going to happen 90% of the time. I didn't reinforce the arms, and 2nd guessing, I should have. But the fact of the matter is that they just don't give any, they just break. IF its not one thing its another. I'm going to give the FGX a rest for awhile. I still like the idea, and the car itself, but Ive got 4 other cars to jack with. Including 2 more F1s. I got plenty to play with til Im ready for the FGX again. By then maybe some A+ upgrades will be available. See you in 2 days. I cant stay away from it very long I'm sure
Yeah, sounds like you need a Rabbit for sure
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:59 PM   #1355
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Yeah, sounds like you need a Rabbit for sure
If it doesn't sell, you will be the first to know. IF I do get the rabbit, it will be after the Nationals. I gotta get a hold of a new motor or 2 and some more lipos. Racing the Exotek. And I acquired another F109 yesterday, that will be my wide car or maybe even a Type C car.
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Old 01-22-2012, 04:38 PM   #1356
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If it doesn't sell, you will be the first to know. IF I do get the rabbit, it will be after the Nationals. I gotta get a hold of a new motor or 2 and some more lipos. Racing the Exotek. And I acquired another F109 yesterday, that will be my wide car or maybe even a Type C car.
The rabbit is well worth it. Extremely durable. I have taken some hits that would have broken all of the weak parts in one hit and the rabbit kept going.Even rolled of off the track into a garage door and kept going.

I guess I needed to be a little clearer in my previous post. The inside front tire isn't bouncing it comes up and stays up sprint car style. I can't keep it on the track at all in a turn unless I tune the car to push really bad. I think its in the front tires. Just tired of three wheeling all of the turns.
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Old 01-22-2012, 06:37 PM   #1357
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First day on the track with my used FGX!
First off BIG props to Robertracer for driving all the way from dallas (4 hours) just to race F1 with us along with his SB5 1/5 motorcycle!!
It was a crazy day with the weather, it rained, sun came out, temp dropped ,temp went back up, sunny cloudy. The car i recieved used and i did not get home until almost midnight sat night. I was too tired to mess with it so woke up early this morning to go over it install electronics run it up and down the street a few times then my son and I headed to the track. As was to be expected i had all kinda of issues with the steering not feeling right and later discovered that the servo spline was broken and the saver was wedged on to the body making it stick, didnt figure that out until after the first qualifier. fixed it and then couldnt figure out why the dif felt strange like it was bound up so i took it all apart , removed all of the spider gear shims as well as 1 sun gear shim on each side, filled with 55wt oil (low grip asphalt). it felt better but once i put the wheels back on it still felt about the same , then I realized that the outside outdrives were rubbing against the arms!! so I clearanced them and all was good but later found that i simply had too much droop!!

So now to the car ands its handling on asphalt. I was way undergeared for a 21.5 with a 30t pinion so it made it hard to keep up with everyone but the infield handling was enough to keep me in the hunt for a while! There is ENTIRELY too much slop in the front, i couldnt for the life of me keep it going straight down the straights, it would dart off to whatever side it felt like no matter how much toe in i tried. I can only imagine that its due to the slop, it is really bad and will be the first thing i try and fix! i had PLENTY of wrecks today and didnt break anythnig but the guy i bought the car from had already reinforced the upper and lower arms. but i can tell that the chassis is way too soft, an improved upper deck will do wonders.

Today we ran 5min qualifiers on a track that is wide open and full throttle the entire time. I only used 800mah on each qual and after the ten minute main we all drove for another 10min and still no one hit their cutoff! I am using a 2200mah 40c 18r size battery and i didnt take it out the entire day. Because it is a light battery it allows you to place weight wherever you want and my ESC is in the middle directly in front of the motor. Speaking of motor , i didnt realize that you needed a particular motor so you could move it up far enough to use the bigger pinions! Overall i give the car a B+! I will take some pix and post later tonight. Plans for this week is to come up with a new lower and upper deck.
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Old 01-22-2012, 08:45 PM   #1358
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Did you adjust your toe by eye or with a set of gauges? Mine walked like you are describing until I put it on gauges and knew exactly where the toe was on each tire. 1/2 degree toe out was very stable.
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:51 PM   #1359
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Did you adjust your toe by eye or with a set of gauges? Mine walked like you are describing until I put it on gauges and knew exactly where the toe was on each tire. 1/2 degree toe out was very stable.

i didnt get the car running until that morning so didnt get to put it on the setup board but i measured with calipers and got it close enough, both rods are the same length. i just sent through the car and found a bunch of loose screws and weird settings so im sure it will be better next time out!
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Old 01-22-2012, 11:57 PM   #1360
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Robert sent me a pic of all the F1s down there in Houston today, looking good. How many of them can you talk into coming up for the Feb race?
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:40 AM   #1361
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i didnt get the car running until that morning so didnt get to put it on the setup board but i measured with calipers and got it close enough, both rods are the same length. i just sent through the car and found a bunch of loose screws and weird settings so im sure it will be better next time out!
The only loose screw that is good is the one behind the transmitter. Glad you found the problem. Only problem I have has is trying to get the inside front tire to stay down.It will be 1/4 inch off of the track through the entire turn. Other than that it drives fine.
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Old 01-23-2012, 10:23 AM   #1362
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The only loose screw that is good is the one behind the transmitter. Glad you found the problem. Only problem I have has is trying to get the inside front tire to stay down.It will be 1/4 inch off of the track through the entire turn. Other than that it drives fine.

Thats from all of the flex. I am going to try and have a proto lower and upper chassis ready for testing wednesday.
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Old 01-23-2012, 11:05 AM   #1363
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Thats from all of the flex. I am going to try and have a proto lower and upper chassis ready for testing wednesday.
That was fast. If you need beta testers, let me know.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:04 PM   #1364
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That was fast. If you need beta testers, let me know.
OK so im looking at this upper deck, its going to be a little more complicated than i thought, main issue is the nose attachment. If i make a complete upper deck it will have to include the nose. and i dont think it will be an issue with durability. In the meantime i think i may have an alternative that will definately stiffen up the upper to the point where we may not even need a complete upper deck! I think i can sneek in some machine time this afternoon between jobs to make a proto. Basically it is a piece that mounts under the deck and is sandwiched with another plate like the one used for the stiffner plate it will go all the way up to where the steering post is! You will have to grind the steering post knob on the deck down about .5mm and the same with the swivel post near the back. i will take some pix and post tonight if i can get it done.

Secondly my laser machine venture is not going well, i have the machine but im going to leave it at that..........What this means to everyone else is that i cannot cut carbon fiber efficiently, Carbon is very dangerous and the dust/fumes are toxic so i dont cut very much of it at all like i used to. With that being said im only going to be able to produce parts in black G10 at least for now. One thing about G10 is that it had much better flex characteristics than carbon which by nature is not designed to flex.Everybody wants carbon so i dont expect to sell much but i tend to make things for me first, if i like it and the performance is increased than the product does its job regardless of how pretty it is!

As far as beta testing goes, i am very thorough with testing but before i start to sell anything that is even remotely complicated i send out beta parts to the general public to basically try and break it!

Some of you have been around long enough to know that i am a huge F1 fan and also a fan of realism so your not going to see a 104 conversion from me, i like the high nose. Oh and i am not 100% but i think i can get functional disc brakes in the front using Venom brake rotors and some simple bracketry! Do we need it? NO but it sure would be cool as hell!!
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:13 PM   #1365
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OK so im looking at this upper deck, its going to be a little more complicated than i thought, main issue is the nose attachment. If i make a complete upper deck it will have to include the nose. and i dont think it will be an issue with durability. In the meantime i think i may have an alternative that will definately stiffen up the upper to the point where we may not even need a complete upper deck! I think i can sneek in some machine time this afternoon between jobs to make a proto. Basically it is a piece that mounts under the deck and is sandwiched with another plate like the one used for the stiffner plate it will go all the way up to where the steering post is! You will have to grind the steering post knob on the deck down about .5mm and the same with the swivel post near the back. i will take some pix and post tonight if i can get it done.

Secondly my laser machine venture is not going well, i have the machine but im going to leave it at that..........What this means to everyone else is that i cannot cut carbon fiber efficiently, Carbon is very dangerous and the dust/fumes are toxic so i dont cut very much of it at all like i used to. With that being said im only going to be able to produce parts in black G10 at least for now. One thing about G10 is that it had much better flex characteristics than carbon which by nature is not designed to flex.Everybody wants carbon so i dont expect to sell much but i tend to make things for me first, if i like it and the performance is increased than the product does its job regardless of how pretty it is!

As far as beta testing goes, i am very thorough with testing but before i start to sell anything that is even remotely complicated i send out beta parts to the general public to basically try and break it!

Some of you have been around long enough to know that i am a huge F1 fan and also a fan of realism so your not going to see a 104 conversion from me, i like the high nose. Oh and i am not 100% but i think i can get functional disc brakes in the front using Venom brake rotors and some simple bracketry! Do we need it? NO but it sure would be cool as hell!!
Good luck on the first piece! For giggles I should mock up some pieces with tag board and place them in my spare chassis. I'd really like to draft it out in 3D. I picked up an open source version of "Autocad" and need to learn to use it one of these years.
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