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Old 01-07-2012, 02:18 PM   #1216
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You will love the gear diff once you get it right. Check for flashing left over from the mold. Take your time.
success i rebuild diff last night and this morning.......no leak now i can finsh the car. many thanks texastc for your advice i refill diff with 7000 weight 1/8 oil and it moves alot better. not sure on if 7000 is good or not
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Old 01-07-2012, 05:31 PM   #1217
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I have the car hooked up. It's running really well. I'm getting occasional traction roll, but had more to do with the line I was running than the car itself. I ran a couple different pinions now with the TP 21.5 and nothing is helping with the heat. I turned the motor timing down to 5* and still over 190* F. It smells like it's ready to fry. The funny thing is, it never gets any slower or shows any sign of failure. It is designed to have more ventilation than other motors, so it doesn't make any sense to me. Maybe I got a lemon of sorts.
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Old 01-07-2012, 06:24 PM   #1218
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I have the car hooked up. It's running really well. I'm getting occasional traction roll, but had more to do with the line I was running than the car itself. I ran a couple different pinions now with the TP 21.5 and nothing is helping with the heat. I turned the motor timing down to 5* and still over 190* F. It smells like it's ready to fry. The funny thing is, it never gets any slower or shows any sign of failure. It is designed to have more ventilation than other motors, so it doesn't make any sense to me. Maybe I got a lemon of sorts.
I am out of ideas for you on the heat. Does everything spin freely with the motor removed from the drive train?
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Old 01-07-2012, 07:20 PM   #1219
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I am out of ideas for you on the heat. Does everything spin freely with the motor removed from the drive train?
Very, nothing bound up at all. I tore the motor down and put some light oil in the bearings so they don't seize. There are no scorch or score marks on the rotor or stator and nothing on the sensor board is burned or shorted. This one is very odd.
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Old 01-07-2012, 08:25 PM   #1220
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success i rebuild diff last night and this morning.......no leak now i can finsh the car. many thanks texastc for your advice i refill diff with 7000 weight 1/8 oil and it moves alot better. not sure on if 7000 is good or not
I take no credit for anything correct I say, I learn it all from the rest of the guys. The 7000 was Racer Roberts idea, I have some to use but haven't put it in yet. Waiting on the post office to deliver my aluminum steering blocks.

lilJohn, I've heard more than a couple of people commenting on the TP 21.5 getting hot. Keep us posted on what you find out, I'm considering getting one. I'm gonna need more motor to keep up with the F1 class here. Lightning in a bottle.
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Old 01-07-2012, 11:22 PM   #1221
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Hi Everyone finished building the FGX can't find any setup sheets regarding toe in or out at front of car plus any other setups required . Can some one point me in the right direction Thanks
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Old 01-08-2012, 12:35 AM   #1222
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I have the car hooked up. It's running really well. I'm getting occasional traction roll, but had more to do with the line I was running than the car itself. I ran a couple different pinions now with the TP 21.5 and nothing is helping with the heat. I turned the motor timing down to 5* and still over 190* F. It smells like it's ready to fry. The funny thing is, it never gets any slower or shows any sign of failure. It is designed to have more ventilation than other motors, so it doesn't make any sense to me. Maybe I got a lemon of sorts.
Resolved my heat issue with the TP today by going 35 spur, 27 pinion, 20 deg motor timing, Tekin RS blinky mode. After 10 minute races on carpet, it was coming off at 160. Not perfect, but closer .....
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Old 01-08-2012, 01:26 AM   #1223
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Resolved my heat issue with the TP today by going 35 spur, 27 pinion, 20 deg motor timing, Tekin RS blinky mode. After 10 minute races on carpet, it was coming off at 160. Not perfect, but closer .....
Are you guys opening the body vents? I ran a 27 on a 35 tonight with full motor timing and came off at 100. Track is high traction carpet technical layout turning 12 second laps. Esc is a Novak havoc spec. Motor is a Novak ballistic 21.5. Do you think its just the TP motor? I know motors can be different but 60 degrees is a lot. Are these new motors or do they have some time on them? My Novak motors cooled off after they had been run a while. Guess they had to settle in to be right.

You may also want to check the internal motor shims. They may be too tight.
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Old 01-08-2012, 02:40 AM   #1224
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How does rear ride height change? Thanks
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:31 AM   #1225
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You change it by adjusting the spring collars on the shocks. Just remember to back off the droop screws on the rear arms also.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:09 AM   #1226
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As far as setup we have started to get the FGX's working pretty good on our hi-grip carpet track

Front:
0561 Shimizu soft tires
Silver optional front king pin springs
king pin turned upside down no middle e-clip single 1 mil shim under steering block 5.0mm ride height
1 degree neg camber
4 deeg Castor (using link susp)
.05 toe out
Sauce 1/2 inside tire


Rear:
565 Shimizu Soft Tires
5.5mm ride height
2mm droop over ride height
2 hole piston with 65wt
2degree neg camber
1degree rear toe
Sauce full tire
1000CST diff lube
1.3mm sway bar

cars started really working well and stopped the snap traction roll we were getting with the cars when we had more front and rear camber. More testing today, should have 4 to 6 of them out at the track today
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:19 AM   #1227
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Are you guys opening the body vents? I ran a 27 on a 35 tonight with full motor timing and came off at 100. Track is high traction carpet technical layout turning 12 second laps. Esc is a Novak havoc spec. Motor is a Novak ballistic 21.5. Do you think its just the TP motor? I know motors can be different but 60 degrees is a lot. Are these new motors or do they have some time on them? My Novak motors cooled off after they had been run a while. Guess they had to settle in to be right.

You may also want to check the internal motor shims. They may be too tight.
I am running a well used Novak ballistic endbell timing one mark advanced from n 32 pinion 35 spur. No cooling holes in the body. Novak edge etc. After a 6 minute race its 130-140 degrees.
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:53 AM   #1228
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Default V2 arms

So far the v2 arms are holding up well. They survived two qualifiers and several run ins with the boards and other cars. Then I switched to another car I wanted to get some track time with. They v2 arms came through with flying colors!
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:01 AM   #1229
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I am running a well used Novak ballistic endbell timing one mark advanced from n 32 pinion 35 spur. No cooling holes in the body. Novak edge etc. After a 6 minute race its 130-140 degrees.
Very nice. I ran a 31 on the same motor when it was brand new and it got to 180. Opened the vents in the body and dropped to 140. Now it runs around 120 on the 31. Opening the vents made a huge difference. I think the vent above the driver made the biggest difference. The body directs the air flow right to the motor. The one on the left side of the car flows right to the speed control. The right side vent probably isn't doing much.
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:34 AM   #1230
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Are you guys opening the body vents? I ran a 27 on a 35 tonight with full motor timing and came off at 100. Track is high traction carpet technical layout turning 12 second laps. Esc is a Novak havoc spec. Motor is a Novak ballistic 21.5. Do you think its just the TP motor? I know motors can be different but 60 degrees is a lot. Are these new motors or do they have some time on them? My Novak motors cooled off after they had been run a while. Guess they had to settle in to be right.

You may also want to check the internal motor shims. They may be too tight.
This is a brand new motor, second run. I may just be way off on my gearing calcs. Maybe I do need to go taller on gearing and open the air box. I'll give it shot and report back.
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