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Old 12-10-2011, 12:48 AM   #1021
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Originally Posted by inconceivable View Post
The car pictured is mine and I used HPI 34mm turnbuckles front and rear. I had to Dremel about 2-3mm off the rear links however. I plan on rebuilding the rear links with something in the 25mm range so I have more and easier caster adjustments. As it sits now I'm at 3 degrees of caster with no room to go higher. I have the camber/caster block forward with one line exposed versus the 3 shown in the manual. For the record, I too prefer the kit front end looks, but love the added adjustability this provides.
Thanks for the info Mike...
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Old 12-10-2011, 12:00 PM   #1022
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do you guys have the turnbuckles for the front conversion also?
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Old 12-10-2011, 03:47 PM   #1023
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We got the parts for FGX front arm conversion.




FYI, Thanks.
Nicely done
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Old 12-10-2011, 08:19 PM   #1024
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More testing, better results. I'm still running my piano wire front arms and 28 grams of weight on the lower deck up against the battery stop. The car stayed flat in the corners, but still extremely pushy. I was busy trying to get my WGT car ready so only got in 2 runs. I need to spend a day or two just with this car.

As run:
Ride medium slick fronts.
Stock spring.
No spacers under the rear ball.
Approximately 1/2mm droop.
-2* camber.
Caster at 3 notches.
Ride height 3.5mm

Ride medium slick rears.
Stock spring.
Single hole pistion with stock oil.
0* Camber.
2mm droop.
Ride height 3.5mm

Next step, add spacers to the rear pivot and try to get some additional caster gain. Start with a different initial caster position.
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:27 PM   #1025
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Upper deck is quite a bit thicker so I don't see it snapping that easily. I would like to see a graphite upper deck as an option. Would free up some room.
I retract this statement. I snapped upper deck right behind camber/caster plate. On a good note, reinforced front arms held up.

Car was great right up until impact. I really enjoyed it. Hugged turns, nailed throttle out of corners. Took away the toe out I had, and loosened up really well. Could run any line I wanted. Even added 2 teeth to the pinion. The break happened on an awkward angle hit into a corner. Inside front hit, grabbed, twisted. Back to the F109 for remainder of day, and already have an order in to TQ. I had a rotten day all together. Broke a kingpin on first run with FGX, replaced with 1/8" 1/12scale kingpins. I even broke a kimbrough servo saver on the F109 Had to pull servo saver out of FGX to finish the day. I need more track time, the 6 day 12 hour shifts at work are teh suck. 2 more weeks

Here is a pic Racer Roberts new Force India colored FGX and my crippled FGX. Robert was dialed.
Attached Thumbnails
3 racing new F1-fgx-013.jpg  
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:23 AM   #1026
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what rear toe does the kit come with?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3Racing-FGX-...item20bf57bd8e

do these change rear toe?

does a low profile servo have to be use?

can f104 front upright/axle/kingpin be used?

thanks

Last edited by freakyfreakyflo; 12-11-2011 at 03:34 AM.
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:43 AM   #1027
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I believe it comes with the +2. The link won't open for me.
Yes low profile is needed. You might be able to use the f104 stuff but it would take a lot of shims and more work than I think is worth.
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:57 AM   #1028
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FYI, The Hobbywing Justock ESCs work great! I have one in my FGX and F103. Extremely small, smooth and at $65, a good bargain.
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Old 12-11-2011, 10:01 AM   #1029
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Raced the fgx yesterday and man do I love this car. Only had 2 other f1 case to run against. One f109 on foam and one f109 on rubber. 3 fgxs broke out before race day. As promised, here's my review.

Track was medium traction indoor carpet. Track temps around 65.

First, the medium hpi Bridgestone tires were too hard for this track. Better suited for higher temperatures.

the soft compound tires were absolutely amazing. I love these tires. Traction was so high I rolled the car many times. Definitely need more setup work to prevent the traction rolls but these are the tires I will be using. After day of practice and racing I can still see the molding seams. Very little wear.

The reinforced lower arms and the upper link conversion held up nicely. Many traction rolls and a few hits in the wall caused no arm casualties. Never drilled the wall but did hit hard enough to break 2 kingpins. One on each side.

Overall the car is great but it needs some set up work and upgrades. listed below.

Must use titanium kingpins. invert the king pin and leave the center e clip off
Must reinforce the a arms
Need to reinforce the upper deck
car needs nose weight. added 45 grams and made a huge difference
car needs stiffer rear springs
car needs thicker shock oil
Car needs the rear sway bar.
With these upgrades the fgx will he a dream to drive. I kept lifting the inside front tire on every turn because of chassis roll. I did not have any springs so I went a lot thicker on the shock oil and it helped but did not solve the problem. If you are serious about racing this car get the carbon chassis.

Used the Novak edge esc Novak ballistic 21.5 motor gens ace 5000mah 40c battery spektrum transmitter receiver and servo. gearing was 31 pinion and 35 spur.

First 6 minute run came off at 170 degrees. opened all 3 body air intakes and dropped to 120. 8 minute main came off at 135.

Sorry for spelling. posted with my phone.
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:45 PM   #1030
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Formula Rabbit conversions are due in this week, will post the link when they arrive
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Old 12-11-2011, 11:24 PM   #1031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inconceivable View Post
The car pictured is mine and I used HPI 34mm turnbuckles front and rear. I had to Dremel about 2-3mm off the rear links however. I plan on rebuilding the rear links with something in the 25mm range so I have more and easier caster adjustments. As it sits now I'm at 3 degrees of caster with no room to go higher. I have the camber/caster block forward with one line exposed versus the 3 shown in the manual. For the record, I too prefer the kit front end looks, but love the added adjustability this provides.
hello
what size ball cups did you use in this front end

and what size battery do fit? same as 104? or square style?

thanks

Last edited by freakyfreakyflo; 12-12-2011 at 12:38 AM.
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:27 PM   #1032
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Just got a few basic FGX parts in
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:31 PM   #1033
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Originally Posted by rickthejetman View Post
do you guys have the turnbuckles for the front conversion also?
Turnbuckles in the picture is 32mm and 34mm, but it depends what ball cups you are using.

Here is the turnbuckles we have.

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...s_cate_id=1101

The parts for conversion will be in stock tomorrow.

Thanks.
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:58 PM   #1034
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FYI, The Hobbywing Justock ESCs work great! I have one in my FGX and F103. Extremely small, smooth and at $65, a good bargain.
After fighting my GTB and 4 cell GTB with the Fosters Beer can capacitors, I finally pulled my SpeedPassion Cirtix out of my VTA and put it in the FGX. It will stay in the FGX. Fits great. Ill figure out something later for VTA when I decide to put car back together. Probably do the Novak trade in program and upgrade.
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:48 PM   #1035
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Quote:
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After fighting my GTB and 4 cell GTB with the Fosters Beer can capacitors, I finally pulled my SpeedPassion Cirtix out of my VTA and put it in the FGX. It will stay in the FGX. Fits great. Ill figure out something later for VTA when I decide to put car back together. Probably do the Novak trade in program and upgrade.
Another great option in my opinion. I have them in my VTA cars. They have great punch and are very smooth.
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