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Old 11-27-2011, 08:30 PM   #871
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thats much neater then my effort...nice work

with a 17.5T motor would a FDR of 4.5 be a good starting point. Not running any boost on motor. Will be using with a Hobbywing Justock esc.
any thoughts on a good starting point....just don't want to risk speedie and motor if I can avoid it
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:41 PM   #872
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:52 PM   #873
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It doesn't matter what you guys say , I trust my AE notebook knowledge , not your politics, and THAT will be the end of that discussion !!!!! Let's move ON !!!
Like I said, I suggest you go and research roll centres on the web, and you'll find your note book wrong. And just to make it easier... go here (http://users.telenet.be/elvo/), click suspension, and then go to page 3..

Oh, and bear in mind (something you've forgotten) those pictures are of the car without any load... so obviously the inner link is in a different place to the outer... when the suspension compresses under load (i.e. you put it on the track) the relationship between inner and out stud changes, even in a static condition. With the car sitting on wheels on the table, the inner stud is lower than the outer one... simples.



But usual story, you won't listen to anyone...
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:33 PM   #874
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I just saw the video qualifier, and I must say good running Robert ! Keep it up.....
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:15 PM   #875
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TryHard that was a very cool link you posted thanks a lot i learned a great deal from that.
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:22 PM   #876
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TryHard that was a very cool link you posted thanks a lot i learned a great deal from that.
No problem, it's one those links that permanently sits in my bookmarks
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Old 11-28-2011, 05:05 AM   #877
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Hi Guys,

I have just received a kit this morning cant wait to check it out.

Just a quick question, what would be a good weight of oil to fit in the gear diff? would 5k be better to get the power down with a 13.5?

Cheers
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Last edited by Qatmix; 11-29-2011 at 04:02 AM.
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Old 11-28-2011, 06:47 AM   #878
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AussieRevo , you might be better to ask on the Aussie F1 thread , regarding the HobbyWing setup.
If it were mine , I would start at 50mm rollout and go up from there. (using a temp gun every two minutes )
At a guess, you might end up near 60mm , since you have the torque of zero can timing .....
I'm going to start at 50mm with my HW 13t mini combo.
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:12 AM   #879
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chassis is FRP, upper deck is plastic. Hop Ups...... extra front arms. And fast gear set. More upper arms. Several more.
I started with 4 sets, haven't broken any. Of course my body isn't painted and I haven't run it yet. Can't wait for Saturday!
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:15 AM   #880
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I know, i pushed the arms up and looked at the angle of the pins.
You're correct, they are.
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:24 AM   #881
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I started with 4 sets, haven't broken any. Of course my body isn't painted and I haven't run it yet. Can't wait for Saturday!
We took some CF wrap and some resin and then used a heat gun to cure and stopped breaking front arms even with my terrible driving! PS- boiling seems to help as well.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:47 AM   #882
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We took some CF wrap and some resin and then used a heat gun to cure and stopped breaking front arms even with my terrible driving! PS- boiling seems to help as well.
Carbon Fiber wrap ? Where can I buy some ?
I tried brass wire ( I have since been told to use piano wire ) and shoe gooed it to the bottom of each arm, top and bottom arms... no breaks all weekend...

I think the trick is the adhesive has to have flex... friend of mine tried a hard drying epoxy and it would just snap apart when you bend it...

I have a Rabbit kit that allows a 104 front end coming from China, but just found out yesterday that this would eliminate the cool scale drop down front nose ... I don't think I can do that...
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:57 AM   #883
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Is the breakage on the front arms, the wide or narrow section or both? Don't want to add too much weight.
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:27 AM   #884
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Hi Guys,

I have just recieved my kit. Just a quick question, what is a good type of oil to fit in the gear diff? would 5k be better to get the power down with a 13.5?

Cheers
I am just running 21.5 but I like 10k diff lube much better than what came in the kit. Seems to help it rotate around the tight infield sections more effeciently. Also ran 7k but its a little too much rotation.
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:29 AM   #885
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Is the breakage on the front arms, the wide or narrow section or both? Don't want to add too much weight.
On the upper arm I have only seen the narrow section break. The lower I have seen and broken both front and back sections.
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