R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11-21-2011, 10:18 PM   #826
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,583
Default

.

Last edited by Sydewynder; 11-30-2011 at 04:20 AM.
Sydewynder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2011, 10:21 PM   #827
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,583
Default

.

Last edited by Sydewynder; 11-30-2011 at 04:19 AM.
Sydewynder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2011, 09:40 AM   #828
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Posts: 2,453
Trader Rating: 32 (97%+)
Default

can an f109 front end just be slapped on this car or will it be the wrong size?
__________________
Hotshot Rc Raceway
kikcaffine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2011, 10:05 AM   #829
Tech Champion
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,278
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to liljohn1064 Send a message via MSN to liljohn1064 Send a message via Yahoo to liljohn1064
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
By virtue of the lower arm being fixed and the upper arm not moving in the same angle as the king pin you will always have some camber and caster gain as the suspension compresses. You can get more caster gain (reactive caster) simply by adding spacers under the rear upper arm pivot ball to raise where that link connects. This makes the upper arm sweep forward more as the suspension compresses. The dual link front end used for reactive caster was first in production on the Trinity EV10 which is very similar to what we see people doing on the F104 and this FGX link suspension. AE later came out with the dynamic strut front end which was their version of what Trinity did with links...only using an upper arm instead.
Thank YOU! I was speaking a different language.

Its funny that I do all this stuff when I set up, but never think of it in these terms. I understand all the principles and now have some language to back up what I'm doing. I run 10* caster blocks in my CRC WGT to increase my initial turn in, the car was pushing under power with 5*.

My F1 pan uses the Trinity links. I found 3 sets on e-bay a couple years ago and have them put away with a couple sets of the center pivot retainer. I'm really hoping to get this car looking more realistic and current. I'm trying to fit a 3Racing servo mount on it to locate the trailing arm mounting points and then add longer turnbuckles to get them under the body. I held my FGX body to it for comparison and it will work just fine. The Spitfire is more the length of an F201.
__________________
John Higgins
liljohn1064 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2011, 04:33 PM   #830
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Trimmed my body shell for paint, but noticed the lack of clearance for the rear cantilever arms, what have I screwed up ?
__________________
Racing program on # pause #
RedBullRacing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2011, 05:21 PM   #831
Tech Addict
 
Mac The Knife's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lansing, MI
Posts: 606
Trader Rating: 33 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullRacing View Post
Trimmed my body shell for paint, but noticed the lack of clearance for the rear cantilever arms, what have I screwed up ?
Chop it some more. I hope you didn't predrill the bodymount holes, I found them to be off.
__________________
The Original SC10 4X4 Clutch Basket

Steve McGeorge
Mac The Knife is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2011, 06:39 PM   #832
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac The Knife View Post
Chop it some more. I hope you didn't predrill the bodymount holes, I found them to be off.
Ok, I thought that may have been the case,but didnt want to butcher the shell if I was wrong......
The hole markings are definitely wrong , as you posted. Will sort them before painting.
__________________
Racing program on # pause #
RedBullRacing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2011, 07:58 PM   #833
Tech Master
 
miller tyme's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,552
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I found only the front hole marking to be off by the thickness off the hole. As for the rear cantilever, if you look at the back of the manual they show cutting out wholes in the body to either side of where the engine cowl comes down to the main body in such a way that the cantilever pertrudes up slightly through the body.
__________________
Ken Miller
RC America - X-Ray - ORCA - EA Motorsorts - Pro Level RC - Sanwa - TQ Wire - ProOne Racing Tires -

LONG LIVE OPEN MODIFIED
miller tyme is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2011, 08:57 PM   #834
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 355
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by miller tyme View Post
I found only the front hole marking to be off by the thickness off the hole. As for the rear cantilever, if you look at the back of the manual they show cutting out wholes in the body to either side of where the engine cowl comes down to the main body in such a way that the cantilever pertrudes up slightly through the body.
To this I must confess, I am an Australian man, we read instructions as a last resort !!

Will clearance the cantilever as you suggested , cheers .
__________________
Racing program on # pause #
RedBullRacing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2011, 03:10 AM   #835
Tech Fanatic
 
aussierevo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Brisbane Qld
Posts: 865
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

his mine with the rear of the body cut....it looks alright....it will be fine to race.
Attached Thumbnails
3 racing new F1-095a.jpg  
__________________
Speed Passion F1.
Hobbywing ESC and Motor, SMC Batteries
Meakin Park Club Member
Team ARGO RC - Like us on Facebook
aussierevo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2011, 08:12 AM   #836
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 325
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullRacing View Post
Trimmed my body shell for paint, but noticed the lack of clearance for the rear cantilever arms, what have I screwed up ?
There are actually lines formed in the shell to cut windows out in that area providing room for the catilevers. I chopped the rear off too then regretted it and noticed after the fact that the manual shows shaded areas to cut on the shell. The shaded areas include cantilever openings.
racer robert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2011, 08:19 AM   #837
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Kennesaw, GA
Posts: 2,453
Trader Rating: 32 (97%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by aussierevo View Post
his mine with the rear of the body cut....it looks alright....it will be fine to race.
Where did you come across those decals? f1paintlab?
__________________
Hotshot Rc Raceway
kikcaffine is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2011, 01:42 PM   #838
Tech Fanatic
 
aussierevo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Brisbane Qld
Posts: 865
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kikcaffine View Post
Where did you come across those decals? f1paintlab?
these are from d drive.
__________________
Speed Passion F1.
Hobbywing ESC and Motor, SMC Batteries
Meakin Park Club Member
Team ARGO RC - Like us on Facebook
aussierevo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2011, 09:26 PM   #839
Tech Master
 
texastc's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Forney Texas
Posts: 1,360
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Has any one tried the Pit Shimizu tires on the FGX, besides the grooved tires? Im waiting for TQ to get restocked on the Ride Super Softs, but I like the Pit Shimizu F/R3 softs on my F109s. They arent listed under the parts for the FGX. Do they have a different ID than the grooved or Rides?
__________________
Exotek F1 Ultra
Exotek F1R
CRC Gen-X 10 LE
Kyosho Plazma F1
TC does RC
texastc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-23-2011, 10:55 PM   #840
Tech Elite
 
lightfoot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Thousand Oaks
Posts: 3,513
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by texastc View Post
Has any one tried the Pit Shimizu tires on the FGX, besides the grooved tires? Im waiting for TQ to get restocked on the Ride Super Softs, but I like the Pit Shimizu F/R3 softs on my F109s. They arent listed under the parts for the FGX. Do they have a different ID than the grooved or Rides?
The only Shimizu rubber that fits the FGX is the grooved compounds... I tried The shimizu grooved combo with the soft fronts are pretty good... plenty of steering... Much better then the RIDE super softs...
__________________
Love and Peace...
lightfoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
HPI's new F1 PhatPat Electric On-Road 1173 10-10-2013 12:18 AM
new F1 !!! il-gufo Electric On-Road 29 03-26-2011 11:17 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:54 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0